How many meters?

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Kuro
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Fri Jun 29, 2012 5:02 pm

Good day,

How many meters of fabric is generally required for a suit with an extra pair of trousers (average height/weight)?

Thanks in advance.
Screaminmarlon
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Fri Jun 29, 2012 6:21 pm

4m for medium height (175cm) average build will do. You might add half meter in case of pattern (windowpane, etc...)
In any case, better ask your tailor
lgcintra
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Fri Jun 29, 2012 8:04 pm

Marlon,

Do you think that 5,5m of unpatterned cloth (solid) would suffice for, lets say, two suits (one SB and one DB)?

Best,
LG
davidhuh
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Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:59 pm

lgcintra wrote: Do you think that 5,5m of unpatterned cloth (solid) would suffice for, lets say, two suits (one SB and one DB)?

Best,
LG
Dear Luis,

I use 6m for this purpose (being 1.80m). Better be a little generous when ordering cloth, you never know what happens. I had little defects in cloth twice very recently (not LL cloth). If you are not too short in cloth, it is easier for the cutter to go around such nasty parts. It also may be helpful for future repairs.

cheers, david
davidhuh
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Fri Jun 29, 2012 11:08 pm

[quote="Kuro"
How many meters of fabric is generally required for a suit with an extra pair of trousers (average height/weight)?

Thanks in advance.[/quote]

Dear Kuro,

I calculate 5m in this situation. This accommodates for pattern matching. I got the following guidance from my tailor:

Lining 3-piece suit: 2,5m
Lining coat only: 1,8m
Lining for half lining coat: 1.5m
Cloth for overcoat: 3,4m
Cloth for Raglan overcoat: 2,7m
2pc suit: 3.3m (3.5 if pattern to match)
2pc suit & second trouser: 5m
3pc suit & second trouser: 5,6m
Trouser: 1.3m
Coat only SB/DB: 2,2m
Pyjama: same as suit

cheers, david
Gruto

Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:38 am

David, good list.

However, I have the impression that bespoke customers often bring too much cloth to the tailor. Of course it is good idea to be safe, but still, why waste fine cloth? For instance, I am quite sure that 2.00 m will be enough for an odd jacket in most cases. (A tailor once made me an odd jacket of 1.75 m plaid cloth, and I am 196 cms tall).
Last edited by Gruto on Sat Jun 30, 2012 1:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
davidhuh
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Sat Jun 30, 2012 12:46 pm

Gruto wrote:David, good list.

However, I have the impression that bespoke customers often bring too much cloth to the tailor. Of course it is good idea to be safe, but still, why waste fine cloth? For instance, I am quite sure that 2.00 m will be enough for an odd jacket in most cases. (A tailor once made me an odd jacket of 1.75 m plaid cloth, and I am 1.96 cms tall).
Dear Gruto,

you can do many things, of course. Sometimes, a good tailor will manage to do the impossible. Last week, I have brought 3.3 m of unicoloured linen to the tailor. It is a respected cloth, Mersolair bunch from Harrison. It was defective on 1.5m - very likely, something was wrong with the looms. Whether me nor the sales people have spotted it. Nevertheless, he managed to cut around that.

Now I have just discussed Kuro's question with another, very respected tailor - who tells me 5.5m would be his advice. He said it all has to be cut straight and one way even the pant back. Make sure you have a really good tailor and you will make him a pleasure if you come with enough cloth. If you want to be very safe, get a swatch, show it to him and ask.

Defects we don't see at purchase are an issue to take into account, but also moths (I live in an old classified house, I can tell you something :oops: ). There can be additional trouble ahead when you don't have enough, so it is better to be on the safe side, especially with cloth club productions.

I had ordered 5m of the Brisa PoW to make a DB with two trousers. There was a misunderstanding with my tailor, and he also cut a waistcoat. All of a sudden, he was crying for 20-30 cm additional cloth. We managed in the end, but it was a challenge as this happened 6 months after cloth delivery from Lovat Mill.

cheers, David
Gruto

Sat Jun 30, 2012 1:44 pm

David,

I follow you. It think it comes to down to what we consider safe.

Clearly, there is no reason to make life difficult for your tailor. But, I have had this experience with tailors that they haven't used all the cloth that I brought, and that they suggested me to bring less for a next similar order. Now I walk that path. If I discover an irregularity in the cloth, I would see it as a mark of character :)
davidhuh
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Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:25 pm

Dear Gruto,

point taken, but: most of us spend something between 2'000 and 5'000 £ on a suit, sometimes even more. How reasonable is it to risk such marks of character, because you are saving a penny on cloth? World war II and rationing are over :D

cheers, david
Kuro
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Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:13 pm

Thanks again.
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