My first commission - well, not really

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

davidhuh
Posts: 2030
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Fri May 04, 2012 7:39 pm

Gentlemen,

after sixteen years of abstention and after finding the LL, I have decided to get my hands dirty and become serious again :D . I did some interviews with tailors in London, and decided to go ahead with Mr. Thomas Mahon. I am in town very often for work, and it is easy for us to meet there. We have developed a very productive collaboration since, I have a lot of fun and receive nice feedback from colleagues and others.

My first commission with Mr. Mahon was this dark blue suit in a Holland & Sherry cloth from the Perennial Line, 657042, 13oz/400g. We made two trousers, both with forward pleats, one with permanent turn ups, the second without. The cloth wears and drapes very nicely, the suit is versatile and comfortable to wear 10 months of the year where I'm living. This is actually my biggest surprise, given the weight of the cloth. There is minimal padding, which might explain it. I am enjoying the suit since a year now, but had no opportunity to take pictures before.

Some may want to know about the number of fittings - we had two of them. Mr. Mahon obviously got things right from the beginning.

Here are some pictures for the sharks :lol: More to follow soon 8)

cheers, david

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/9854/p1020974i.jpg
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6951/p1020983x.jpg
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2531/p1020984x.jpg
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/2239/p1020988u.jpg
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/1170/p1020989j.jpg
http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/3231/p1020990mi.jpg
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/2313/p1020991u.jpg
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/1863/p1020994e.jpg
Last edited by davidhuh on Fri May 04, 2012 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Costi
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Fri May 04, 2012 8:11 pm

David, the sharks are hungry for more! :wink:
Great suit and great dress! And you look as happy wearing it as you sound telling the story :D
Gruto

Sat May 05, 2012 7:37 am

David, it looks like a super suit. Both comfortable and sharp.
Screaminmarlon
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Sat May 05, 2012 10:23 am

Great suit!
A 3 to 2,5 roll might satisfy even a Great White :D
Saluti
M.
BirdofSydney
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Sun May 06, 2012 1:43 am

Superb work and a beautiful choice of fabric!

I am interested in the blending of Italian and English influences in the coat: 3-roll-2 stance but with hacking and ticket pockets.

So what's the next commission to be?
DonB
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Sun May 06, 2012 9:59 am

David,

I concur with the remarks of the previous posters.

I would like to suggest picturepush.com instead of imageshack.us as a host for your pictures, the advantage being that your photos do not need to be cropped or compressed.

Regards,
Don
davidhuh
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Sun May 06, 2012 1:53 pm

Gentlemen,

many thanks indeed for your nice comments :D . This is encouraging.

I have read somebody saying "Your first suit commissioned is likely not going to be your favourite". This made me think a lot, and I had a long discussion with Mr. Mahon about what we should do first. He objected my initial ideas, and I am glad to have listened to him. Having a Lesser 16oz in the works right now, I would probably prefer another cloth today, as I see and feel the difference. However, for a Holland & Sherry cloth it was a good choice, and I love the versatility of this suit. It works for theatre, opera and board room - I can even have a nap in it :D

Bird of Sydney: Interesting remark - but isn't this something Anderson & Sheppard including their scholars do anyway? My next commission was a corduroy suit; pictures to follow in a few days, and a tweed suit - pictures I have still to take.

DonB: I will look at picturepush, thank you. But I didn't have to crop or compress for imageshack.

cheers, David
uppercase
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Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 3:49 pm

Sun May 06, 2012 5:33 pm

Very nice, David , especially for a first commission!
So I infer that you have had 3 suits made my Mahon…?
What changes did you make to subsequent commissions?
What is the background story to the vest…did you make it
to wear with the H&S suit?
Can you tell us a little bit about experience of working
with Mahon?
davidhuh
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Sun May 06, 2012 6:54 pm

Dear Uppercase,
uppercase wrote:Very nice, David , especially for a first commission!
Thank you!
uppercase wrote: So I infer that you have had 3 suits made my Mahon…?
We did 3 suits last year, the H&S above, a corduroy SB and a cheviot tweed also SB from Lovat Mill. I have two more in the making, a Lesser 16 ozs still SB but 3 piece and the LL Brisa PoW which will be my first DB.
uppercase wrote:What changes did you make to subsequent commissions?
Hardly "changes" so to speak - every cloth was so different and the first suit fits perfectly - you will see when I post more pictures from the others. The only thing I changed a little bit with the ongoing commissions is the inside pocket on the left. It is for the handkerchief (the one to blow, not to show). On some pictures he posted here, I have seen what Costi is doing; it will give me easier access in case. I might try a silk lining in the near future, which is something I did sometimes in the past.
uppercase wrote:What is the background story to the vest…did you make it
to wear with the H&S suit?
No, it is a little cashmere vest from Drake. I have a few of those, they are lovely to combine with suits. I wear them when it is a little fresh, when I want to leave the overcoat at home or out of fun :D .
uppercase wrote:Can you tell us a little bit about experience of working
with Mahon?
My experience is very good. He has given me excellent advice from the beginning, but he is also listening and open for "adventures". Sometimes, I would wish he had his office in London. It would be easier to make the little changes you sometimes need to do. But I fully understand he prefers to work in the peace of Cumbria - I would do the same! :)

cheers, David
Slewfoot
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Mon May 07, 2012 4:14 pm

David,

Looks great and glad to hear both Thomas and Edwin are class acts. I would expect nothing less. Look forward to seeing photos of your additional garments.
davidhuh
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Mon May 07, 2012 6:43 pm

Thank you all for the nice comments, this is encouraging! :D

I have just posted the pictures of my second commission with Mr. Mahon: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 810#p63810

Now you need to be a little patient - my third project is a quite spectacular tweed suit in a beautiful Lovat Mill cloth. I have no pictures yet, but promise to do them in the coming weeks.

cheers, David
uppercase
Posts: 1769
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 3:49 pm

Mon May 07, 2012 7:10 pm

Thanks.
Wondering how soft, in shoulder and chest, you find your Mahon?
Say, compared to the other softies…
Did you have the fittings in London or Cumbria?
TIA
davidhuh
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Mon May 07, 2012 9:45 pm

uppercase wrote:Thanks.
Wondering how soft, in shoulder and chest, you find your Mahon?
Dear Uppercase,
I find it very soft. There is almost no padding.
uppercase wrote: Say, compared to the other softies…
I can only compare what I have tried myself, which I have not... :)
uppercase wrote: Did you have the fittings in London or Cumbria?
Always in London

cheers, david
DFR
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Mon May 07, 2012 10:04 pm

davidhuh wrote:Gentlemen,

many thanks indeed for your nice comments :D . This is encouraging.

I have read somebody saying "Your first suit commissioned is likely not going to be your favourite". This made me think a lot, and I had a long discussion with Mr. Mahon about what we should do first. He objected my initial ideas, and I am glad to have listened to him.
cheers, David
David

It is a good looking suit, congratulations.

What were your original ideas and in what way did he object to them? This rather typifies my experience with him putting forward his preferences rather more strongly than I have found with other equally good tailors.

D
davidhuh
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Mon May 07, 2012 10:25 pm

DFR wrote: It is a good looking suit, congratulations.
Thank you DFR!
DFR wrote: What were your original ideas and in what way did he object to them?
My professional environment is academic and governmental. Also, I travel a lot. I found something on Steed's website which I thought would be very useful for me: the Swiss Army Suit http://steeds-view.blogspot.co.uk/2009/ ... -suit.html
He said we could certainly do one, but he would prefer to establish the pattern before embarking in such a complex undertaking. This made sense to me. So we did this dark blue worsted with two trousers - which is in itself a very versatile suit.
DFR wrote:This rather typifies my experience with him putting forward his preferences rather more strongly than I have found with other equally good tailors.
I have no problem with this, as I am not the expert on everything :D
I am looking for honest feedback from my tailor and told him so.

cheers, David
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