Number of Fittings

[Costi]

Egregio sig. Costi mi piacerebbe tanto raccontare che significa essere un sarto , e cosa fare per poter chiamarsi sarto.
Una delle importante cose da notare e' che non fa un buon sarto ne il taglio ( anche se senza dubbio e' molto importante ) '
Ne cio che e' in stile .

Una gicca che segue cio che e' in style al 100x100. puo' essere una giacca di $ 300.00 or una di $ 10.000.00.
Chi fa la differenza e' sopratutto il modo di come costruita , seguita da stoffa e supply.

(1) Il sarto sa che quando dico e' vero : 5 giachhe tagliate con lo stesso modello , date a cucire a 5 differenti sarti ,a giacca finita sono 5 differenti giacche.

Una persona intelligente in sei mesi puo' imparare a tagliare qualuncque capo di abigliamento maschile in qualuncque style.
La stessa persona imparare a cucire una buona giacca ha bisogno 5 anni di apprentistato 40 ore per settimana per i 5 anni. dopo seguira' un corso di 6 mesi di taglio , e dopo avra' tutta la vita per imparare dai suoi sbagli confrontandosi con differenti conformazioni apportando al sistema di taglio i suoi proprii gusti e esperienza questo e' il sarto . Io sono orgoglioso di farne parte

I would like very much to tell the story of what it means to be a tailor and what it takes to be able to call oneself a tailor.
It is important to note that what makes a good tailor is neither the cut (even though it is without doubt very important), nor the styling.
A jacket that follows 100% what is in style can be a 300 $ jacket or a 10 000 $ one.
What makes the difference is the way it is put together, followed by the quality of cloth and trimmings.
Tailors know that what I write is true: 5 coats cut to the same pattern and given over to 5 different tailors will result in 5 different finished jackets.
An intelligent person can learn how to cut any men's garment in any style within 6 months.
The same person needs 5 years of apprenticeship, 40 hours a week in order to learn how to sew a coat well. Then a six-month course in cutting follows and, after that, a liftetime to learn from one’s own mistakes, confronting oneself with various conformations and adding to the tailoring system one’s own taste and experience. This is a tailor. I am proud to be one.

[old henry]

You are a Great Tailor.

[C.Lee]

If I wrote in Italiano is not I not want wrote English.
Emigrato in Canada 1968. Fino al 1988 a Hamilton Ont. ( Big Italian comunity)
Grante sbaglio che ho fatto non andare a scuola di Inglese , ho aperto sartoria nel 1969, e feci subito molti clienti, non solo da Hamilton. Nel !969 la mia giacca era quella che e' in stile oggi.
Ma il mio lavoro non mi dava tempo per imparare un'altra lingua, e non solo vivendo nella comunita' Italiana proveniente da tutte le regioni D'Italia , non solo non imparai L'Inglese , ma altro disimparai L'Italiano che avevo imprato a Milano, parlando in Siciliano e altri dialetti Italiani. Fra i miei clienti c"erano pure Inglish speaking , ma cio non impediva a fatto il mio lavoro, il mio lavoro parlava per se.
Oggi tutte le volte che conosco un giovane emigrante le raccomando di antare la sera a scuola e imparare L'Inglese , e aggiungo raccontanto loro episodi negativi nella mia vita per non aver imparato L'inglese.

Mille grazie al Sig. Costi per gentilmente tradurre cio che io scrivo ,cosa non facile , non essendo il mio un perfetto Italiano.
Chiedo scusa ai lettori
Cordiali saluti a tutti voi
Pino un Sarto

"I apologize to the readers for writing in Italian."

Dear Pino, I know you as a honest and hard working man, one who is fiercely proud of his vocation and work. In my eyes, you have nothing to apologize for.

"I had English speakers among my customers, but this was not an obstacle to my work, as my work spoke for itself."

As one of your English speaking customers, I can confirm that your work speaks for itself, and I would add that you speak very well for yourself, regardless of language. I introduced you to the London Lounge for who you are, and have enjoyed what you have shared so far.

Kind Regards,


Charles

[marburyvmadison]

Does anybody know if I can adjust the 'opening' of the quarters during my first fitting? I had mistakenly showed my tailor a picture of a jacket that has closed partings, and will be doing a fitting some time next month. Was wondering if it'd be unreasonable, and too late to ask for open quarters then.

[Costi]

Not late at all, that's what the first fitting is for (if it's really a first, basted fitting, not an advanced fitting disguised as a "first")

[dempsy444]

Costi,

How can you tell if a first fitting is an advanced one disguised as a baste?

[Costi]

Mr. Mancuso explains it here pretty well: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... ing#p63051

At the first fitting you shouldn't have pockets or buttonholes in place, everything should be basted (and not definitively sewn), there should be seam allowances for any changes required and the front quarters should have free edges, simply basted to the canvas, so they can be shaped any way you desire before they are sewn.
Some tailors skip this and go straight to the second fitting, where the pockets are already in place, contours defined and edges sewn, so it is difficult to change something like the shape and width of the lapels, or the opening of the quarters. This may work after many coats made for the same customer, when the basics are clear and both know what to expect, but not for the first commissions or when the customer wants to have a substantial input in the making of his coat.

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

IMG_1540 (1280x960) (640x480).jpg

dempsy 444 asked: How can you tell if a first fitting is an advanced one disguised as a baste?

IMG_1520 (1280x960) (640x480).jpg

[Costi]

Grazie, Sig. Mancuso! I looked for your pictures, but there are so many that I couldn't locate them precisely. That should be very clear now.

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

Picture regarding first fitting :

[marburyvmadison]

Good information.

This, I presume, is also another example of a basted first fitting, yes?

IMG_0145.jpg

[Costi]

I believe this a second (advanced) fitting: the pockets are cut (and sewn closed for working purposes), the undercollar is in place, the sleeves are already cut and basted on. The buttonholes are cut or just marked?
But it looks promising

[dempsy444]

Mr. Mancuso explains it here pretty well: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... ing#p63051

At the first fitting you shouldn't have pockets or buttonholes in place, everything should be basted (and not definitively sewn), there should be seam allowances for any changes required and the front quarters should have free edges, simply basted to the canvas, so they can be shaped any way you desire before they are sewn.
Some tailors skip this and go straight to the second fitting, where the pockets are already in place, contours defined and edges sewn, so it is difficult to change something like the shape and width of the lapels, or the opening of the quarters. This may work after many coats made for the same customer, when the basics are clear and both know what to expect, but not for the first commissions or when the customer wants to have a substantial input in the making of his coat.

Thanks, Costi. Very helpful.

[dempsy444]

Is this an advanced first fitting or a baste? I would guess an advanced first fitting given the lapels and the advanced edges?

[Costi]

Sort of advanced, Dempsy, but I'm happy it's not mine...