Shiny Worsted

[Scot]

The tendency of worsted to go shiny, expecially on the underside of the forearm and the front of the thigh, is a pain; it can put one off an otherwise perfectly wearable suit. Is there any way to prevent this (apart from not wearing it) or to revive the garment once it has happened?

[old henry]

is it a good english 2x2 ?

[Scot]

Yes

[couch]

I have had some success with clear worsteds (twills especially) that became shiny from dry cleaning by sponging with vinegar. Make a pad of a lint-free cloth and soak it with clear distilled household vinegar (usually cider-based)--do not use malt or wine vinegar or any undistilled vinegar, which will contain impurities that may stain or leave a residue. Squeeze out most of the moisture, and blot the shiny area of the wool cloth, moving the pad around so as to slightly dampen the wool but not saturate it. Using the pad (carefully) to rub short strokes across the damp wool may also help, as can brushing the dampened wool against and then with the grain using a good horsehair clothes brush.

The principles at work are that wool fibers are naturally acidic, and when well finished in soft (non-alkaline) water remain that way. They are also naturally slightly crinkled and springy. When crushed by wear or overpressing (especially when the wool's natural oils have been depleted by dry-cleaning solvents) they lose their texture and become flattened, resulting in the uniform surface that produces the shine. The combination of the mild acidity of the vinegar (usually 5% acetic acid by volume) and its water content act to swell and relax the fibers, and can restore some of their initial texture, reducing or eliminating the shine. I have often had good success with this method, but don't expect miracles: if the wool yarns have been badly worn down or completely stripped of lanolin by overcleaning, they may no longer have enough fiber or resilience left to restore the surface texture. But I've been pleasantly surprised on more than one occasion. If you are treating a large area you may need to do some touch-up pressing afterward; if so be careful to use a press cloth, proper support, and the lowest heat and pressure necessary to restore an even surface. You don't want to recreate the shine.

Acetic acid is a volatile acid, and any residual odor should normally evaporate within a few hours or days. Airing the garment in the sun for a while on a breezy day will speed the process. Good luck!

[cathach]

The tendency of worsted to go shiny, expecially on the underside of the forearm and the front of the thigh, is a pain; it can put one off an otherwise perfectly wearable suit. Is there any way to prevent this (apart from not wearing it) or to revive the garment once it has happened?

This is one of the reasons tweed was so popular in the past as well, as the way it is spun the fibres are at cross angles to the axis. It is softer and will wear out quicker but it cannot 'go shiny', the same is true of woollen flannel. Do you get a second pair of trousers with your suits? Its always a good idea, I've even heard of people that used to buy a five-piece suit i.e. jacket, waistcoat and three pairs of trousers, so that over time the whole ensemble would wear out together.

[kamil]

I am having a suit made of Lesser 13 oz worsted (dark navy self-herringbone fabric if it matters). How resistant to shining should I expect the jacket to be?

[Screaminmarlon]

Another option, if the cloth is not paper weight, is to put over the cloth a chunky piece of white cotton, gently soak it with a wet brush, then iron the spot leaving the cotton over the cloth with a good iron
Saluti
M.