First bespoke - visiting Italy's south

[Costi]

I wasn't aware LL had the Dr Phil effect.

One learns every day if one is keen to keep an open eye.

That depends a lot on the audience, of course.
Keeping an open eye may be challenging, as the Dr Phil effect works slowly: usually the first couple of days you see nothing. The third day you still can't see much. If you're lucky, perhaps the fourth day you start seeing a little, but only with your right eye... like this:

[culverwood]

Spectators - never
Woven shoes - never
Red suede driving shoes - only on holiday

[Berwick]

I had better mention that my suggestion for tan or chestnut oxfords or derbies did not contemplate use without socks. I personally wear socks at all times when I am not wearing shorts. I actually find socks more comfortable than no socks in warm weather.

[Tutumulut]

I wasn't aware LL had the Dr Phil effect.

One learns every day if one is keen to keep an open eye.

That depends a lot on the audience, of course.
Keeping an open eye may be challenging, as the Dr Phil effect works slowly: usually the first couple of days you see nothing. The third day you still can't see much. If you're lucky, perhaps the fourth day you start seeing a little, but only with your right eye... like this:

Hahaha! (or ROFLOL depending on taste and age)

[Tutumulut]

I wasn't aware LL had the Dr Phil effect.

One learns every day if one is keen to keep an open eye.

That depends a lot on the audience, of course.
Keeping an open eye may be challenging, as the Dr Phil effect works slowly: usually the first couple of days you see nothing. The third day you still can't see much. If you're lucky, perhaps the fourth day you start seeing a little, but only with your right eye... like this:

Hahaha! (or ROFLOL depending on taste and age)

[Tutumulut]

Something went wrong there...

culverwood, how timely and good to read!

Berwick, appreciated, I understand this more safe approach as it is what I would probably opt for myself, by nature. You've made me curious about socks making you cooler in summer. Could elaborate on material, length and how it works for you?

[Costi]

depending on taste and age

Ha! Thank you for the benefit of doubt...

[Costi]

I find linen socks most comfortable for summer, even if they are fairly substantial.
There is also an Italian manufacturer (I hope I'll remember the name before the season is over) who makes very fine superlight cotton socks, almost transparent, like the silk ones, in solid colours of RAF blue, bordeaux and bottle green. Very nice!

[hectorm]

There is also an Italian manufacturer (I hope I'll remember the name before the season is over) who makes very fine superlight cotton socks, almost transparent, like the silk ones

Dear Costi, because I like you, I sincerely hope you will not be able to remember the name of the manufacturer of the transparent socks.

[alden]

Hectorm,

If Costi can't remember the name, I know of a good brand of transparent socks for summer wear. They come in white, red and tan. I wear them almost exclusively. They are lightweight, cool, easy to clean, and never seem to wear out. Almost too good to be true. Well there is one catch. The maker has trouble distributing his color assortment. At the beginning of summer he only has white in stock. A few days later he releases a nice shade of red. And for the rest of the summer he carries only two colors, tan and a rich brown. I find the quality of the red socks to be not as good as the other colors, they must have some man made materials in them, they seem a bit more warm. But you can buy a special cream to put on them, like for your shoes, and they suddenly feel better. The tan and brown colors on the other hand are very chic especially with boat shoes or mocs. Your friends will be impressed and envious of their rich shade.

If you want I can email you a pair of the white socks right away. They are on special and are part of the April 1 sale! So hurry and buy some!

Cheers

[Tutumulut]

alden,

Do share the address for these socks! It seems I'm always too early and can never find white nor red! So the entire year I'm walking around with tan or dark brown and you know how certain combinations look lovely with red (which ones?). I assume they come in 1 size fits all?

[Screaminmarlon]

At the beginning of summer he only has white in stock. A few days later he releases a nice shade of red. And for the rest of the summer he carries only two colors, tan and a rich brown.

[Rowly]

At the beginning of summer he only has white in stock. A few days later he releases a nice shade of red.

I have had these in Combinations. I only could find them in White and Red. The white is very comfortable ( you wouldn't know you had them on), the red runs too hot on me and I try to avoid them!

[Tutumulut]

For the last few days in Napoli I had rented a scooter. It is much more expensive than renting a small car due to insurance costs, but more fun and much quicker than a car. And because traffic is, uh, a bit more liberal than elsewhere, you can easily find shortcuts through pedestrian areas, against traffics, etc.

Friday was my last day in Napoli. In the morning I picked up my ties at Capelli's. They were beautifully done and the first thing I noticed was the conservative design choices I'd made. Next time I promised myself to be more bold. During the day I stopped at another tie maker, Ulturale, as I was looking for a gift for an Azeri friend with a bolder taste and there I found exactly that, including their trademark talisman hidden on the back. Seems also well made, but in a different style.

And then at 4, my appointment with Pirozzi. A very warm welcome, a very concentrated hour or so of adjusting, discussing options for pockets, trouser width, button height, darts, etc. We all agreed French pleats made for a nice volume on a tall person. They accepted the length of the SB coat I had brought with me as the correct length. But for the DB they insisted on a slightly longer coat, appr. 2cm longer, because of the heft of the front. Is this something you recognise as correct?

But then. The daggers came out, those same daggers alden had already warned me for. I noticed to my surprise that the linen suit had a structured front. I must admit, a very light structure, but there was one. And I had explicitly requested no structure. The 2 brothers started to spit fire. Whether I really wanted some cheap suit like from Z., one of the most successful high street chains specialising in self disintegrating clothing, with a half life of around 5 months. Did I know what it means to have no structure in such suit? How could I even bring it up? I suspected at some point one would jump on the shoulders of the other and punch me in the eye. Although my Italian was still nowhere near useful, I took that as a no.

They guaranteed a very soft look nonetheless. And continued to feel strongly about it for at least 15 minutes after I relented and the daughter had repeatedly told them so. Herein lies lesson number 1, I'm sure. But what lesson I don't know yet. Maybe I'm lucky I haven't paid for everything yet.

The sample shirt they had put together needed the most adjustments, arm hole, shoulder, body length, sleeve length. I tried to explain that in my opinion the coat follows the shirt regarding arm length, but I got the impression they were more relaxed about that link. In the end it seemed to work, though.

Now is my last day in Italy before heading back home. I managed to find a few linen/cotton and linen/silk/cotton mixed socks, inspired as I was by Costi. Pure linen I could find nowhere. There were a lot of white socks, mainly British made and a few German ones it seemed, none red, a few tanned. Thank you for pointing this out alden.

And I purchased a shoe to go with the chocolate brown linen suit! The suggestions from all of you have been very helpful in making the choice, even if you don't recognise it immediately. A very pale beige loafer with tassels, nice with a thin sock and without I believe:

http://www.guji.jp/blog/upload/2012/02/IMG_8255.JPG

You can shoot me now over the choice, but know that I die knowing it will be in style... Seriously, I would appreciate any comments. Burn and learn, I tell myself.

A side remark regarding minimal levels of style. I was surprised at the levels of lack of style I also saw amongst many Italians. Is it true that some can be even more style challenged than the most challenged in other countries? Do they do it on purpose to bring balance to the overall cultural fabric? Compared to some outfits I saw this week, the American uniform of sweatpants and sweater seems almost dressed up. I never thought I was going to write this! And it is not my intention to offend Italians nor Americans nor other nationalities, if I ever did.

A final final remark: however nice the bespoke experience was, the talk with a passionate tie maker, the food and the wines, the highlight of this trip was an hour's run on the empty and sunny Via Appia Antica this morning. The sense of history, the ancient walls, the fields, the sheep make for an inspirational combination. Next time, when combining the right shoe (maybe an old army boot would do, but it would look strange with my tights and t shirt) and using my own running technique, I may even attempt mimicking the sound of a cohort going to the battle field!

Please keep the comments flowing, this has been a most helpful, at times hilarious and always entertaining thread. Be sure I will ask for more advice when the 2nd fitting comes. You're my teachers.

Ciao ragazzi!

[alden]

T

I make my DBs one cm shorter than my SB. The Neapolitans for some strange reason love long coats in general but especially the DBs. They are used to make for short men and somehow think a long coat is slimmer. It isn't necessarily. If you have very long legs and short torso you might be ok with a longer DB, but otherwise stay short.

You made your point on the structure. I don't think there were daggers drawn here maybe just a little needling. They are probably afraid to make a new customer something out of the ordinary, fearing you would hate it and blame them. P makes a soft coat so I imagine they used a very thin piece of structure. When they are confident in you and vice versa, you can order an unstructured coat and accept responsibility for the outcome. They will make it for you. They may not like it, but they will make it.

One of the best tailors I have ever worked with flat out refused my ideas for a while. But when the sense of complicity and trust had set in, he made whatever I could imagine. And he liked it. I took him out of his comfort zone and accepting the challenge, he became a better tailor.(Those would be his words, not mine.) Remember that as a new client a tailor can be very concerned about doing good by you and that might create some tense moments. Give it time and see what comes out of the relationship.

I like the idea of having a shirtmaker paired with a tailor and will be initiating the same service myself. The idea is for the two craftsmen to work in harmony fashioning a coherent and organic whole.

I absolutely agree with you that a walk around some of the great cities of Italy can be more rewarding than making clothes. Clothes are just cloth.

Keep up the good work. I will be interested to read the advice your other adopted godfathers give you.

Cheers

Michael