First bespoke - visiting Italy's south

[Tutumulut]

Dear hectorm, davidhuh, costi, thank you for reading so far and for your kind encouragement. And yes, going for Rubinacci or at a smaller scale someone like Ripense would have been much easier. But where is the fun in that? However, it did start me thinking: is there a Bear Grylls type person who can provide broader survival techniques for the sartorial jungle? It might help future potential bespoke customers and at least as important, create some stimulus for the trade to expand or at least not shrink. Anyway.

The introduction to Nunzio Pirozzi, his daughter, his brother, who is the head cutter I believe, was a true pleasure. And after scanning the work in progress and trying on a coat commissioned by someone else but clearly close to my body type, I decided to have everything done here rather than find an alternative. I decided on a dark brown linen DB 3x2, fully unlined and unstructured, shirt sleeve, no padding, as natural/morbido as possible. I believe this might be a true test piece to see what he can do. Trousers with double French pleats, a strong deviation of the flat fronts I got used to. The other suiting will be a SB 3 roll 2 in fresco or double twill, in navy, with lining in the same style trousers and half lining in the coat, again shirt sleeve, no or very little padding. I also decided to have a few shirts done, blue, white and denim, long collar, again unstructured. I have to wait a week for the first fitting, unfortunately. Oh, and the language was no problem at all. Between their few words of English and my few of Italian, we got where we wanted to be, although the proof is in the pudding, of course.

What I noticed was remarkable cloth for some of Japanese clientele, some beautiful and playful baby cord in a pastel green, a very nice brown on grey tweed. I believe there even was a Japanese intern or full employee.

Now I have a style question for this thread's readership. What shoes to wear with such brown linen DB in summer, assuming shirts will either be white, light blue or dark blue and ties blue, black or brown? The impulsive idea would be to go for the informal shoe popular here in Naples with a natural crêpe sole or a white micro sole, in suede, either brown, navy or off white. But what choice is there in the slightly more formal shoe, realising such suit will never be considered formal but could nonetheless benefit from an uplifting shoe. I'm really curious to hear your ideas.

For anyone who has been to Naples, the mix of elegance, neglected history, roughness, great food and coffee can be intoxicating, just like Marseille can be in France or Sevilla in Spain. The eternal underdog in the poor south, with strong harbour influence in the case of Naples and Marseille, clearly a large army of people that prefer to make a living in alternative circuits, constant protests in the streets - it all makes for an exciting canvas on which to paint one's emotions. And then the food. The food! I was recommended a restaurant near the main train station, in a small side street. Of course, that side street had several 18+ cinemas, one of which was called Hard Videos. Although you don't know this type of film house, I'm sure you've heard of them. In doorways, on corners, against lamp posts, young men of non-Italian descent warming the air around them. And then, at the far end of the street, a typical elegant restaurant, stuck in the 1930's, a brigade in black ready to serve, the most beautiful fresh catch, a house red that is more than decent. And as I was one of the first to arrive, a big surprise to see a long queue outside when I left. Such place is a welcome change after the wintery climes I'm from and where the food scene is not as quality driven as here.

If it still interests the reader, I will continue to report, next time on the first fitting, hopefully with some pictures. I could also share a great shopping experience in a jeans shop, with excellent customer service, truly exceptional jeans using narrow loom Japanese selvedge denim. And this in Amsterdam, not the most customer friendly or fastidiously passionate place on earth. Anyway, enough rambling, time for an aperitivo.

Ciao!

[Berwick]

Regarding shoes, I would go for a tan oxford such as a quarter brogue or Adelaide with leather sole, or possibly a tan derby.. A chestnut version would also look good.

[culverwood]

For anyone who has been to Naples, the mix of elegance, neglected history, roughness, great food and coffee can be intoxicating, just like Marseille can be in France or Sevilla in Spain. The eternal underdog in the poor south, with strong harbour influence in the case of Naples and Marseille, ..

Perhaps Cadiz would be a better Spanish equivalent, a town of most ancient history now much neglected with great food and the smell of the Atlantic.

My own choice of shoe to wear with a brown linen DB would be one similar to the G&G Antibes or Cannes in a brown of your choice to complement the suit colour. It will never be a formal suit and I would suggest the Riviera playboy look. Maybe even a red suede driving shoe!

[davidhuh]

Now I have a style question for this thread's readership. What shoes to wear with such brown linen DB in summer, assuming shirts will either be white, light blue or dark blue and ties blue, black or brown? The impulsive idea would be to go for the informal shoe popular here in Naples with a natural crêpe sole or a white micro sole, in suede, either brown, navy or off white. But what choice is there in the slightly more formal shoe, realising such suit will never be considered formal but could nonetheless benefit from an uplifting shoe. I'm really curious to hear your ideas.

Dear Tutumulut
My choice would be suede with leather sole. Crêpe is very comfortable, leather far more elegant. I would suggest you pay a visit to the Edward Green store on Jermyn Street, check what they have in RTW or what they could make up for you.

If it still interests the reader, I will continue to report, next time on the first fitting, hopefully with some pictures.

Of course, this is so much fun to read

I could also share a great shopping experience in a jeans shop, with excellent customer service, truly exceptional jeans using narrow loom Japanese selvedge denim. And this in Amsterdam, not the most customer friendly or fastidiously passionate place on earth.

Given your enthusiasm, you would probably manage selling a cross country bike to my 80 year old dad. Looking forward to this story!

cheers, david

[hectorm]

Now I have a style question for this thread's readership. What shoes to wear with such brown linen DB in summer, assuming shirts will either be white, light blue or dark blue and ties blue, black or brown?

I don´t think you went all the way to the alleys of Naples and commissioned an unstructured, unlined, spalla camicia linen suit, just to wear the same oxford shoes that you would with a SR suit. You need something special.
What throws me off a bit is that it is a dark DB and you plan to wear a neck tie with it.
Would cap toe spectators in brown leather and tan canvas be too dandyish for you?

[Bwooster]

Great post, culverwood, keep it coming!

[Tutumulut]

Some great ideas from all! I'm particularly intrigued by the idea of the playboy look. I love the idea do the red suede driving shoe, but feel I'm too large for their sleek appearance. The spectators would be fantastic. For a slightly more traditional look when without tie, a Mantellassi leather soled suede loafer currently in my wardrobe might fit the picture davidhuh and culverwood are proposing. The shape is close to the G&G Antibes, but no twist. No tie? No socks, that goes without saying. Unfortunately I don't know how to attach a picture using an iPad.

The cap toe spectators that hectorm's lateral thinking brought on/under the table, a tempting idea, they got me wonder about the button colour. Originally I thought a button that would blend in would be best and with blend in I mean disappear. But given the material and cut and season, would you agree a slightly lighter coloured button might be appropriate? And that got me thinking: why not go for a real summer look and do a 3 inch - yes, inch, not cm - turnup?

And that got me thinking: how about a braided shoe, as long as it's slim and pointy, the braid is really fine and it is in a dark brown? Or a whole cut loafer in a bleak beige like Bestetti does. Questions, questions. Your kindly offered suggestions make my head spin. Thank you.

[hectorm]

And that got me thinking: why not go for a real summer look and do a 3 inch - yes, inch, not cm - turnup?

Because a 3 inch turnup would work only (and barely) on very short and narrow trousers which I think are not the best for your dark DB 6x2 suit. If you want the real summer look, when you're wearing no tie and no socks you could turn up the trousers by hand a couple of times to show your thin tanned ankles. Alas, your Riviera playboy look.
BTW, I liked your idea of the braided (woven) shoes. Something like this? (the leather ribbons might not be thin enough).

[Tutumulut]

I was thinking more of a laced braided shoe, something like Mantellassi is doing. I would prefer matte over shiny any day as well.

[Costi]

[Tutumulut]

Costi!

Wat are you doing? First you convince that it was ridiculous to expect something of a storefront, pleasant assistants and all that. As I just got used to that realisation, you become an assistant, pardon me, a senior consultant of sorts. Not that I mind, you understand?

I love the look of that gentleman, even with the partly rolled back shirt cuff. And yes, the colour will be similar. The only thing I might not do is hide my pocket flaps.

And the double monk strap are really an inspired choice! But whether I'm brave enough... I tend to be more subtle. Or conservative. Or shy. The balance between stylish and ostentatious becomes very thin with such shoes, don't you think. All details must be absolutely right without being studied or over the top. A fedora might balance the shoe again, with a further move away from subtle and conservative.

A personal question, if I may: has any of you ever worn spectators, braided or red suede car shoes with success?

[Costi]

Costi!

Wat are you doing? First you convince that it was ridiculous to expect something of a storefront, pleasant assistants and all that. As I just got used to that realisation, you become an assistant, pardon me, a senior consultant of sorts. Not that I mind, you understand?

Just cheerleading for you, Tutumulut. I didn't utter a single word, but if you feel encouraged...

I love the look of that gentleman, even with the partly rolled back shirt cuff. And yes, the colour will be similar. The only thing I might not do is hide my pocket flaps.

Maybe he is not hiding them. Just not showing Or maybe he put his hands in his pockets earlier and didn't bother to pull the flaps back out.

And the double monk strap are really an inspired choice! But whether I'm brave enough... I tend to be more subtle. Or conservative. Or shy. The balance between stylish and ostentatious becomes very thin with such shoes, don't you think.

I gave you three choices. Perhaps the fact that you chose to stop on the monks tells something about your innermost desires

All details must be absolutely right without being studied or over the top.

Your Italian tailor might respond: "Mah..."

A fedora might balance the shoe again, with a further move away from subtle and conservative.

In paglia fiorentina!

A personal question, if I may: has any of you ever worn spectators, braided or red suede car shoes with success?

Well, it depends on how you measure success. Spectators yes, with pleasure. They didn't win hearts for me, though, I still had to do the work...

[dopey]

...
A personal question, if I may: has any of you ever worn spectators, braided or red suede car shoes with success?

I have worn spectators plenty of times. On each occasion though, it was to an outdoor summer event- picnics, garden or lawn parties, etc. But they aren't what I wear for everyday use, even in summer.
I would wear tan or brown woven leather shoes more or less the same way I would wear non-woven shoes of the same style.
Red suede car shoes are something totally different. I am not Italian and don't drive a red car so can't say what use they are for.

[hectorm]

A personal question, if I may: has any of you ever worn spectators, braided or red suede car shoes with success?

With success? Let´s see.
Spectators: Yes. At the golf course, every time.
On the street, not so sure. I had a pair of white on black spectators wing tips in the late 80s. Double sole. Kind of clunkers. A mistake. Now I realize they were perfect for wearing with a "zoot".
If I had brown on brown spectators cap toes like the ones posted above by Costi (well, maybe with a little less broguing) I would wear them today without hesitation.
Braided: Yes. I own a pair of Italian RTW Fratelli Rossetti. Pointy black loafers half woven (apron is just one solid piece) which I wear with red pants, no socks and a linen blazer for my version of the Nantucket look.
Red suede driving shoes: Not since I totaled the Testarrossa.

[Tutumulut]

I love this! Both costi and hectorm have a very clear idea about occasion, outdoor being the key element for spectators, although one is more about strolling the lawn and the other about grazing it with the putter. Both like their braided shoes. One is so kind to refrain from views on red suede driving shoes, the other opens his heart and admits he can't drive, or at least, can't drive when wearing red suede driving shoes. If I understand correctly. I wasn't aware LL had the Dr Phil effect.

One learns every day if one is keen to keep an open eye.