Commissioning a bespoke suit for the first time.

[marburyvmadison]

I'm actually from the US, and studied at Berkeley, so I know how weather is like in South Cal (though Berkeley is not located there).

I'm using WW Chan right now, but that's because I'm not in England as of yet. I intend to head there, and have a suit commissioned. I know it's hard to value a suit, especially because of diminishing returns, but do you think I should pay 25% more, given that I might not necessarily developed a well-trained eye, yet. Not many people here have made a suit with KHL, any particular reason? Just concerned about spending so much and not getting a good job. But, if HP's cutting and skills are significantly better, I might favor the latter.

[st.tully]

Well, KHL is a pretty young firm - maybe a year old? But each of the individuals - Kent, Haste and Lachter have been in the trade for decades. John Kent holds the warrant for Prince Phillip. I like them, and have Terry Haste making me a blue blazer in a very Huntsman cut - Terry was once the head cutter for Huntsman. Stephen Lachter has make several dressing gowns for me - the current one under construction is a Bill's double sided cashmere fabric some 40 years old.

I think Poole is a better first choice for a first bespoke suit because all of the cutting and construction is on site and under the control of Poole. My first suit required quite a few adjustments - large and small - but they were absolutely committed to getting it right - and they did - and I have ordered more suits . My impression is that with the smaller house - that outsource much of the tailoring - mistakes are just logistically more difficult to address.

I will be interested in you thoughts on WW Chan. I have often thought I would have them copy my Poole suits - I have heard they are very good at that. Of course, they are know to be very good regardless.

You will enjoy the London bespoke experience during your time in England. Look upon it as entertainment and NEVER RUSH.

Cheers, st.t.

[marburyvmadison]

Thank you. How has your experience been with Haste thus far? I like the Huntsman structured one button look, and I would seek Haste out if I were to go to KHL. Did you opt for a solid navy blazer?

I will be stopping by Henry Poole. I do hope I get to take VAT off if I have them ship the jacket to my address in the US. 20% of a 3200 pounds suit is significant.

I've not received the suit I've commissioned with WW Chan yet, but I will post photos when they are with me. This would be more objective.

Yes, I intend to enjoy the process. It's quite a large sum for me, but I look forward to making it back.

[st.tully]

Thank you. How has your experience been with Haste thus far? I like the Huntsman structured one button look, and I would seek Haste out if I were to go to KHL. Did you opt for a solid navy blazer?

I will be stopping by Henry Poole. I do hope I get to take VAT off if I have them ship the jacket to my address in the US. 20% of a 3200 pounds suit is significant.

I've not received the suit I've commissioned with WW Chan yet, but I will post photos when they are with me. This would be more objective.

Yes, I intend to enjoy the process. It's quite a large sum for me, but I look forward to making it back.

I like Terry Haste very much and am looking forward to my solid blue navy blazer.

I'm sure you can get the VAT back from any tailor - I think you just need to return to the USA with the goods within six months.

I look forward to seeing you Chan and hearing about your experience as I'm considering a visit with Chan myself.

Cheers, st.t.

[hectorm]

I think Poole is a better first choice for a first bespoke suit because all of the cutting and construction is on site and under the control of Poole

I agree with st. tully. Henry Poole would be an excellent entry point to SR. With the passing of the years I´ve become more appreciative of my Poole suits. They are from the first half of the 90s and still going strong. Not only have they shown superb quality but they also proved to be timeless in style and more wearable in day to day situations than, for example, my Huntsman´s suits which have a more "aggressive" silhouette and call for more attention.
Visiting London only intermittently nowadays and refusing the "traveling tailors" scheme, I haven´t touched Poole´s stuff in almost 20 years, but I understand that Simon Cundey is a very able torch bearer.
For his first bespoke on SR, I would also advise Marburyvmadison to try Richard Anderson or Steed. Both IMO very friendly with novice clients. With Richard Anderson (who follows the more structured Huntsman style), you´ll get "Young Richard" himself from the start to the finish (make an appointment making sure he´s not touring abroad). In Steed Edwin DeBoise (who follows his alma matter A&S style), is very accommodating indeed and pleasant to deal with.

[marburyvmadison]

When I go to Henry Poole, should I ask to speak with a senior cutter? Is there a cutter in particular I should speak with, or comes with members' hearty recommendations?

[st.tully]

When I go to Henry Poole, should I ask to speak with a senior cutter? Is there a cutter in particular I should speak with, or comes with members' hearty recommendations?

My cutter is Alex Cooke. Love him. Perfectionist. Meet him and see if you like him. Remember it is you who is parting with a great sum of money for a suit - make sure you like the cutter.

Cheers, st.t.

[marburyvmadison]

If I want to speak with the cutter of Poole, as well as a few others from other houses I'm interested in, would it be bad form to just go in and speak with them? Do I need an appointment for that?

I'm deliberating between two houses, and I want to hear what they have to say before deciding who to commission my first Savile Row suit with, and I feel bad just talking them up, and not buying something.

When I go to Henry Poole, should I ask to speak with a senior cutter? Is there a cutter in particular I should speak with, or comes with members' hearty recommendations?

My cutter is Alex Cooke. Love him. Perfectionist. Meet him and see if you like him. Remember it is you who is parting with a great sum of money for a suit - make sure you like the cutter.

Cheers, st.t.

[st.tully]

If I want to speak with the cutter of Poole, as well as a few others from other houses I'm interested in, would it be bad form to just go in and speak with them? Do I need an appointment for that?

I'm deliberating between two houses, and I want to hear what they have to say before deciding who to commission my first Savile Row suit with, and I feel bad just talking them up, and not buying something.

When I go to Henry Poole, should I ask to speak with a senior cutter? Is there a cutter in particular I should speak with, or comes with members' hearty recommendations?

My cutter is Alex Cooke. Love him. Perfectionist. Meet him and see if you like him. Remember it is you who is parting with a great sum of money for a suit - make sure you like the cutter.

Cheers, st.t.

On my first venture, only a few years ago, I spent a week talking with tailors on the Row (no appointments) - and then went back to the USA to think about it for a few months. I found them all willing to chat with a prospective client. It helped that I knew some of the basics - like the different cuts and house styles - and could ask informed questions - such as will soft or structured look better on my body shape. It get the conversation going and they know you are serious.

I would interview the two you are considering, two that you know a little about, and two more that you just find in and around the Row. And then take some time to think. Your visits may raise more questions than they answer. At the very least, by the time you make your choice, you will have overcome any nervousness about tailors on the Row (and if you meet one that makes you nervous, he is certainly a bad choice). You might want to query the LL again.

Savile Row bespoke costs a serious amount of money. You want to make sure you are dealing with a tailor/cutter/house that you enjoy - the experience is part of the price.

You are on the right track. When will you be in London?

Cheers, st.t.

[hectorm]

If I want to speak with the cutter of Poole, as well as a few others from other houses I'm interested in, would it be bad form to just go in and speak with them? Do I need an appointment for that?

It would not be bad form to drop by the stores, but you can't expect that the cutters will be available for you (they might be busy with another client or even on tour abroad).
If you have the time, my advice is that you visit the few big houses that you have in mind and talk to the front room staff. They are trained to deal with new prospective customers all the time (after all these are sales people). If you have done your homework before, show them so and these conversations will be very helpful. You'll get an idea of how the house works, time and money involved, and they will guide you to the cutter they believe more appropriate (if it's not the name you were thinking of, then you'll have to be firm). If they don't seem interested in your business, walk away.
If you are lucky and willing to wait, you might get a 5 minute chat with the cutter without an appointment. If you make an appointment by phone for just an "interview" with a cutter be polite and inform them that it's not for choosing the cloth and ordering a suit. In my experience (not recent, though) they will be happy to have you visit them.

[couch]

I think you've gotten good advice here. I can also speak in favor of Alex at Poole. My first suits and jackets were cut by MD Philip Parker, but he has cut back on his travel schedule and no longer does the U.S. tours. Since I'm not usually in London more than once or twice a year, that meant that Alex would do fittings and mark adjustments on U.S. trips, but the garments would remain under Philip's supervision for shepherding through the adjustment, finishing, and shipping process. The communications challenges of this arrangement became obvious to everyone and so it was amicably agreed that Alex would take over my cutting based on Philip's excellent initial pattern work. Alex has been a true delight to deal with and as St. Tully says he is both thoughtful and meticulous. I think very highly of him.

[davidhuh]

Dear Marbury,

I have "dated" a few cutters before taking a decision with whom to move forward. I never walked in, but took appointments, so I was sure to meet the people I wanted to meet. Their time is precious, and so is mine. You can walk in of course and meet the sales people in the bigger houses. These people might be charming, but not particularly helpful.

A good starting point for a discussion with a prospective cutter:
- you tell him who you are and in which context you will be wearing your suits
- you have put some thought into what should be your first two, three commissions and you ask him to come up with a suggestion for the first one

Then you should take your time and think with whom to proceed. A prospective cutter who is serious about his business will give you honest answers - which means he will not necessarily tell you what you would like to hear from him. I had initial plans for my first commission which I had to change. The cutter I decided to go with made a different suggestion which made a lot of sense, and I am very happy to have listened to him

Cheers, david

[Scot]

Dear Marbury,

This shouldn't turn into an "advertise your tailor" feature but If you are visiting Henry Poole take time to go a few doors along to Welsh & Jefferies. Jim Cottrell, the owner and head cutter of this small but venerable firm, will be very pleased to talk with you if he is around (which he usually is). The quality of their product is excellent and reasonably priced. If you order before the end of April they also have some offers at the moment - like a free second pair of trousers.

But there are others with excellent reputations and classic SR cut worth a look. Davies and Benson & Clegg are well regarded and sensibly priced.

Good luck and remember all the other good advice on here - especially about cloth!

[marburyvmadison]

Without putting too fine a point on it, look at the terrible state of black tie at universities.

I must do well to remember most of them are young, and are into university for the first time.

http://www.paulbrockphotography.co.uk/e ... ciety-Ball

[st.tully]

LSE ain't Cambridge