What do you think of Italian cloth?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

hectorm
Posts: 1667
Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 2:12 pm
Location: Washington DC
Contact:

Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:02 pm

Gruto wrote: If you compare English and Italian stock bunches, the English will often appear a little dull, while the Italians will feel flimsy, broadly speaking.
Vive la différence!
Viewed under a positive lens both styles of cloths have proved to be highly successful drawing from their own strengths. Look closely and they are different indeed, but the English cloths are not so dull; the Italian not so flimsy.
In the case of the subject of this thread and Loro Piana in particular I can attest that their ¨baby¨ cashmere (the Zenith, not the knitted-like one which I don´t like) and their vicuña are superb.
Do they ¨feel¨ light? Yes, they do. You might even think they are not enough for covering yourself, but that´s the style. Loro Piana now seems to have stores everywhere so you can try for yourself.
Are they durable? Well, they are not going to come apart anytime soon and you are not cleaning shrub in them.
There are inevitable tradeoffs, you know.
tteplitzmd

Tue Feb 28, 2012 1:01 am

Draper's doesn't always list the country of origin on their cloths. On the other hand they sometimes say Carlo Barbera for Drapers, made in Italy.

On the subject of country of origin, it's a mystery to me why Scabal NEVER lists the country of origin on their cloths. They are vertically integrated I think, meaning they own their own mills. I don't know whey they don't list Italy or U.K. on their cloths. Also mysterious with Scabal is why the high pricing?
tteplitzmd

Tue Feb 28, 2012 1:05 am

I forgot to mention, that it is interesting to me that Drapers worsteds always seem to feel heavier than their stated weight (that's a good thing). If I get a chance I'll submit a photo of a magnificent Drapers suiting done as DB, 13 ounce, but feels like 14 or more ounces.
Renfield
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:18 pm
Contact:

Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:59 pm

tteplitzmd wrote:Draper's doesn't always list the country of origin on their cloths. On the other hand they sometimes say Carlo Barbera for Drapers, made in Italy.

On the subject of country of origin, it's a mystery to me why Scabal NEVER lists the country of origin on their cloths. They are vertically integrated I think, meaning they own their own mills. I don't know whey they don't list Italy or U.K. on their cloths. Also mysterious with Scabal is why the high pricing?
Scabal own Bower Roebruck in Huddersfield (they probably own others too), which you can actually arrange to visit. Many of you would find this interesting and enlightening.

http://www.charlescampbellbespoke.co.uk ... dersfield/

It is not really mysterious why Scabal charge higher prices for the cloth, they produce and stock more cloth types than any other merchant. Carrying high stocks of anything is expensive. That is the price of variety I'm afraid.
Renfield
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:18 pm
Contact:

Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:20 pm

hectorm wrote:
Renfield wrote: Curiously, I though as the Italian works his way up the style scale his style became more and more Anglo.
Preposterous idea.
IMO, if there is such a scale which I doubt, the Italian have no one on top of them in style. What might happen is that they are not afraid of adopting/adapting the wonderful, admirable, and substantial things that the "Anglo" style has to offer.
Well, it depends on how we define Italian style.

In my experience the stylish Italian tends towards the conservative.

Suits are cut to flatter the wearer, none of those huge lapels we sometimes see, everything is well proportioned, simple, tasteful and elegant. Cloths are conservative, in fact British cloths are favoured as much for their design as for their tailorability, none of those 'bunga bunga' plaids we see worn on The Sartorialist.

This approach to dressing, albeit with Italian craftsmanship seems to be, well, an Anglo approach.
hectorm
Posts: 1667
Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 2:12 pm
Location: Washington DC
Contact:

Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:30 pm

Renfield wrote: In my experience the stylish Italian tends towards the conservative.
Is this not true regarding every other nationality?
dempsy444
Posts: 132
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 5:32 pm
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:10 am

IMO, Loro Piana makes a very nice S150s 11 oz cloth. its fairly hearty while possessing that soft luxury the Italian cloth is known for. It's extremely comfortable to wear and hangs well. I've had a couple of suits made with 8 oz zegna. Nice and light. Has held up well over the last 4 years despite lots of use.
ismailalmurtadza
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:35 am
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:48 am

dempsy444 wrote:IMO, Loro Piana makes a very nice S150s 11 oz cloth. its fairly hearty while possessing that soft luxury the Italian cloth is known for. It's extremely comfortable to wear and hangs well. I've had a couple of suits made with 8 oz zegna. Nice and light. Has held up well over the last 4 years despite lots of use.
dempsy4444
Do you know anything about the Zegna Premium Flannel book?It a ligth weight flannel of 280gm.I am curious whether it can hold and drapes well enough.Here at the LL the members only gives credit to heavier weight flannels(mim 13 oz. and above).

murtadza
hectorm
Posts: 1667
Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 2:12 pm
Location: Washington DC
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:22 pm

ismailalmurtadza wrote: Do you know anything about the Zegna Premium Flannel book?It a ligth weight flannel of 280gm.I am curious whether it can hold and drapes well enough.Here at the LL the members only gives credit to heavier weight flannels(mim 13 oz. and above).
I cannot speak on behalf of other LL members, but I believe there is a strong reason for our crediting only the heavier weight flannels. By definition, what you look for in a flannel cloth (warmth, feel, drape, recovery, ¨magic¨) you will only find in a rather hefty weight. Currently I own a Fox West of England suit and at 14.5 oz I considered it to be a minimum weight. Flannel yarns are spun loosely and on top of that the cloth is brushed to get the napped finish. If you do all that, in a light cloth (let´s say 10 oz or less), you end up with almost nothing.
I cannot attest regarding the Zegna Premium Flannels per se. Next time I drop by their 5th Avenue impressive store I´ll pay attention.
So far I have only encountered Zegna´s RTW flannel jackets. They look sharp but they feel as flimsy as my son´s flannels pajamas (which, BTW, are made of cotton :))
dempsy444
Posts: 132
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 5:32 pm
Contact:

Fri Mar 02, 2012 12:19 am

ismailalmurtadza wrote:
dempsy444 wrote: Do you know anything about the Zegna Premium Flannel book?It a ligth weight flannel of 280gm.I am curious whether it can hold and drapes well enough.Here at the LL the members only gives credit to heavier weight flannels(mim 13 oz. and above).
I don't have any experience with flannel so can't say.
Merc
Posts: 201
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 9:10 pm
Contact:

Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:37 pm

i have a loro piana 11 oz flannel
its beautiful and feels great..but it does tend to lose shape especially in the pants
i have no regrets however
Post Reply
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests