Sirs,
Would it be appropriate to order turn back cuffs on a bespoke covert coat? If the answer is no, then are buttons or four rows of stitching more appropriate?
Anon
Covert Coats
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Guest
The covert overcoat is not worn with buttoned cuffs. It is characterised by its four rows of stitches on each sleeve cuff and on the bottom hem. As a country coat, this stitching served to protect whilst riding horses through gorse and scrub. Occasionally fewer rows of stitching are found but was generally the mark of a less aggressive (less masculine) rider.
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Guest
Historically, this is absolutely correct.
However, as I do not like the stitched hems and cuffs, I have always had my covert coats made in a single breasted Chesterfield style (cut below the knee, cuffs with four buttons). This may be "wrong" but it looks good and works perfectly well. It would be a shame not use use the covert cloth, which is a beautiful colour and comes in a useful range of weights, just because one does not like the traditional covert coat cut.
How many of us ride regularly these days?
However, as I do not like the stitched hems and cuffs, I have always had my covert coats made in a single breasted Chesterfield style (cut below the knee, cuffs with four buttons). This may be "wrong" but it looks good and works perfectly well. It would be a shame not use use the covert cloth, which is a beautiful colour and comes in a useful range of weights, just because one does not like the traditional covert coat cut.
How many of us ride regularly these days?
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Guest
This is a coat cut from the same cloth as a covert coat, but it is not a covert coat. A covert coat has a certain set of details that make it what it is and in changing these you instead have a coat of your own design. This is not to decry what you have done, personally I have a black covert style coat that I think works nicely but I wouldn't call it a covert coat as the material is wrong.
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Guest
A coat from covert cloth is something well worth having. The original style, however, with the rows of stitching and being cut short to the knees, I believe, does not apply anymore. Mine, as old as it is, is still my favorite coat. It is double breasted with a laid back brown velvet collar.
I also have a covert field coat that I wear to work in New York.
Nothing wrong in using a great fabric in different ways. Including having a turn-back cuff on it.
Go for it!!
I also have a covert field coat that I wear to work in New York.
Nothing wrong in using a great fabric in different ways. Including having a turn-back cuff on it.
Go for it!!
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Guest
The reason I had my coat made from covert but not to the original style, is that I prefer hand stitching. Historically, was the stitching on the hems and sleeves done by hand or machine? One should not forget that the sewing machine is a 19th century invention, predates therefore the cut of the covert coat (which I would suspect to be after 1850, but am ready to be corrected by those with superior intelligence).
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Guest
Superior intelligence is a lot difference from superior knowledge!!
To answer your question directly - I don't know whether the covert coat with the stitching predate the sewing machine. I would suspect not!
I did see a pair of white buck riding breeches made by Huntsmans at the turn of the century. That's the last century. Every single stitch was by hand. The fabric was too thick to place the seams together, sew and then press open, so the placed the edges together and then hand felled. Tbese were, indeed, a work of art.
To answer your question directly - I don't know whether the covert coat with the stitching predate the sewing machine. I would suspect not!
I did see a pair of white buck riding breeches made by Huntsmans at the turn of the century. That's the last century. Every single stitch was by hand. The fabric was too thick to place the seams together, sew and then press open, so the placed the edges together and then hand felled. Tbese were, indeed, a work of art.
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Guest
How about a picture of the classic covert with these details illustrated? Also, what is the highest weight covert cloth available?
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Guest
Most covert is not that heavy, and I prefer the very lightweight ones for spring / autumn use.
There is a similar cloth that does not have the nap typical for covert which you can get in any weight from thornproof to virtuallly bulletproof. The surface is twill like, the colours the same as covert, same mottled effect. I am sure it there is a name for it but it does not come to mind right now.
There is a similar cloth that does not have the nap typical for covert which you can get in any weight from thornproof to virtuallly bulletproof. The surface is twill like, the colours the same as covert, same mottled effect. I am sure it there is a name for it but it does not come to mind right now.
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Guest
I have a covert top coat by Oxxford which is in a traditional top coat style (SB, below the knee, four buttons on cuff, an set-in sleeves).
Alan Flusser had a similar top coat in his shop's brochures.
Therefore, I see no problem in making the covert coat a little dressier with a turn-back cuff.
Alan Flusser had a similar top coat in his shop's brochures.
Therefore, I see no problem in making the covert coat a little dressier with a turn-back cuff.
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Guest
I have two bespoke:
The heavier one from Porter and Hardings covert cloth, SB, railroad stitching on the bottom, but 3 buttons on sleeve, no velvet collar. My preference.
The ligher one, a topcoat, with classic velvet collar, railroad stitching on bottom same 3 button on sleeves. My call.
The heavier one from Porter and Hardings covert cloth, SB, railroad stitching on the bottom, but 3 buttons on sleeve, no velvet collar. My preference.
The ligher one, a topcoat, with classic velvet collar, railroad stitching on bottom same 3 button on sleeves. My call.
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