Bespoke Overcoat neophyte needs help!

[Rowly]

I am considering having a bespoke overcoat made. It will be for occasional use with a bigger emphasis on aesthetics rather than functionality. I am considering a fly front, breast pocket, 2 straight flapped hip pockets and 4-button cuffed sleeves.The coat will be waisted a bit and come to the knee. I have thought of either dark grey herringbone, or light grey herringbone or inky blue herringbone. I will also consider plain grey or navy. I am confused between the choices of all wool, wool/cashmere and I believe Golden bale and cashmere is available. Is there a one port of call for the highest quality overcoating suitable for bespoke tailoring? Would any of these choices be more versatile than others? Does herringbone look bare without a velvet collar(I prefer without)? I have benefited from Alden's advice to wear lighter enlivening greys in suiting and suspect the same might apply to Overcoating. Therefore, I had thought of leaving the plain navies and charcoals for Rtw. and go for something a little more individual. I am kind of drawn to the lighter grey herringbone or marine blue herringbone, if I can find the right cloth.
I doubt if I'll get a second bespoke overcoat ( unless this brings fourth yet another addiction), so I need to get it right first time.
All suggestions and pros and cons identified will be much appreciated. Thanks, Rowly.

[Russell]

Rowly,
Reconcile yourself to developing another addiction. Unless your local climate restricts overcoat use to one day a year you’ll find plenty of reasons to add ‘just one more’ bespoke coat to your wardrobe even when you started out determined that one would be sufficient (I speak from experience ).

As you know, one of the benefits of having a bespoke garment is the choice of cloth so I’d agree that looking at patterned cloth would give more scope for a very personal overcoat. As far as actual recommendations are concerned have you considered the proposed LL Etna-2 which is a 100% cashmere herringbone? Alternatively if you do decide on a dark solid colour there’s the LL Everest 100% cashmere (around 1000 grams) in navy blue.

Both projects need some extra support to help them get to production (an extra 3-4m may just tip the balance on the Everest).

Your overcoat specification sounds not only practical but should result in a very elegant garment - your prime objective.

Regards
Russell

[Macallan1926]

I recommend signing up for the Cloth Club Camel Overcoating

[Costi]

Great choice!
Here is mine (terrible old pictures, I know...)
Is that it?

[Pierre Spies]

I recommend signing up for the Cloth Club Camel Overcoating

We're gonna get there!

And the Costi's coat's beauty is inversely proportional to the happiness degree we see on its owner's face

[Costi]

Copy of gray herringbone topcoat.JPG

better!

[Rowly]

Costi, That coat suits you to perfection, and goes with the look of the pensive intellectual( the first pic, that is ).
The warm colour cast from your walls makes the coat look a tan colour. I am considering a greeny grey herringbone. The coat I have in mind would be extremely similar to yours, perhaps slightly narrower and a tad longer in the lapel and with a hint of flair.
But more or less the same.It is very smart, clean and understated.
Also , it's difficult to tell from the pic..but is yours a narrow herringbone with a tight weave (almost like a worsted)? It looks very good. Already, I can see that I will want more than one coat.

[hectorm]

Does herringbone look bare without a velvet collar(I prefer without)?

Dear Rowly, if you are going bespoke with this overcoat, you´ll be able to have the best of both worlds with a detachable velvet collar. And you can even have one collar in black velvet and another in a color suitable for the cloth you finally choose.

[alden]

Dear Rowly

I cannot offer you any responsible advice. Overcoats, long, short or three quartered have too much of an appeal. Many, many coats ago I swore I would only make one. So much for resolutions. Now I have plans for many more. My tailors are unsuspecting facilitators, they make exactly what I want. What to do?

What would a minimum overcoat wardrobe be? It would have to be two: a mid gray herringbone (no velvet collar please) in SB and a largely luxurious Polo/Ulster in a lighter shade.

Cheers

[Costi]

Rowly, a tightly woven light gray herringbone, yes. I look a pensive hepatitic rather, as do the walls. They (and I) were fine, but the camera was unhappy with its settings and the light.
Why would you think such a topcoat would be little practical? I find it perfect for Spring.

[Rowly]

Costi, I like your coat very much and have already added it to my wish list. As it happens, I already have a very similar Chesterfield coat (although covert finish-not herringbone), which is ideal for spring and early autumn, as you say. For my first bespoke, I was thinking of something with a little more texture..maybe a med to light grey...something along these lines, but not pure cashmere. Maybe a fine merino with a nice hand, but one that will last for years.

Herringbone for Topcoat.jpg

I was thinking somewhere around 500g so that it isn't limited to severe weather.
....Rowly.

[J.S. Groot]

I have an overcoat of that colouring. 6x2 DB Chesterfield-ish winter coat in a wonderful mid-gray herringbone. Very versatile and highly recommended.

[Rowly]

Yes, I see already that I will get hooked on coats! Eventually, I will want more casual 3/4 coats, in tweed, as they can be worn for all occasions. But for now, I will concentrate on the sb. I would also like working cuff buttons and was wondering how heavy to go, before the cloth is too thick for this to look elegant?

[Costi]

Rowly, don't sacrifice cloth substance for the sake of working buttonholes that you will never use anyway... If the tailor can cut a buttonhole in the lapel (and he will!) I don't see why he couldn't do the same on the cuffs.

[Rowly]

If the tailor can cut a buttonhole in the lapel (and he will!) I don't see why he couldn't do the same on the cuffs.

Good point...he has always managed to cut a hole in my pocket