Raglan Sleeve Overcoats

[iammatt]

I am thinking of adding an additional coat to my wardrobe. I currently possess a blue cashmere herringbone chesterfield-style coat, a plaid overcoat and a rain coat. The former is too formal and a bit heavy fr everyday use in San Francisco, and the latter two are more specialty items. I am thinking about a lightweight addition to my coat closet, more for something to help me be finished when I leave the door than for warmth or protection.

I am looking for a less formal coat and thought that perhaps a raglan sleeve coat would be perfect for daytime wear and for less formal nighttime wear as well. I would love to have opinions as to whether this might be a good style for such a need, and as to what styling details I should be considering with said coat (fit, silhouette etc). Also, any other styles that merit suggestion would be appreciated as well.

[Will]

I wear light raglan and covert coats in the Bay area. 14-15oz cloth is as heavy as you can go and get much use from them.

For the raglan, review the thread on the Duke of Windsor. His raglan coat is dissected there. I copied mine from the same photograph a year ago.

[uppercase]

If you are willing to consider a coat other than bespoke made along classic lines, I find that the coat style that many Italians wear - shortish, technical material, a bit loose - very practical, versatile and comfortable - for a variety of climates and uses.
Something along these lines:

http://www.loropiana.com/ING/collezioni ... terwear_05

http://www.loropiana.com/ING/collezioni ... terwear_02

[iammatt]

Thanks. I am going to go check out the Loro Piana store here and see what those coats look like. My only worry is that they might be a bit heavy for my situation. I do like the look of a short coat over a suit though.

[uppercase]

Let us know your impressions!

[iammatt]

OK, I had an early lunch meeting, and stopped in at Loro Piana afterwards for a look. The Icer and Horsey coats are great, as are the Villa d'Este and Racer. They are definitely all on the casual side, but have that great 'Italian looking to be English' look to them. The Icer was a bit heavy for my needs, and the Horsey a bit casual, but I am seriously considering the Villa d'Este and Racer.

The Villa d'Este is a slightly longer version of a parka, but the best thing about it is the absolute freedom of movement that you have with the coat. It is extremely well designed as far as it's functionality, and the aesthetics are good if not luxe. The Racer is an extremely luxurious version of the 'Husky" quilted jacket that you see all through Italy. It is lined in Cashmere.

As an aside, the collection of clothing for this fall/winter are amazing. They have the standards as always, but seem to be focusing on a lot of double knits. They have a great reversable cashmere zip cardigan, and a very elegant barracuda style jacket in a thick cashmere knit that they call 'double cashmere'.

Loro Piana has also started a bespoke home cashmere collection where they will make blankets and such for your home in any cashmere with any backing and bordering in their collection. The prices seem to end in the 50,000 range for cashmere and chinchilla..

[uppercase]

Sounds like you had a successful visit.

When you say barracuda style jacket, are you referring to the "giacca spagna" - pg. 37 in the Winter Collection?

[iammatt]

Yes, although now that I have looked at the Barracuda, they are not so much alike.

[maxnharry]

I wear light raglan and covert coats in the Bay area. 14-15oz cloth is as heavy as you can go and get much use from them.

For the raglan, review the thread on the Duke of Windsor. His raglan coat is dissected there. I copied mine from the same photograph a year ago.

Who made the copied coat for you and do you have pictures you might share?

[Will]

Martin Greenfield.

[maxnharry]

Thank you. How has it turned out?

[DD MacDonald]

Gentlemen,

In my "what I want to do next" file there is a little book that I received from New and Lingwood called "The Essential Little Black Book". Page 17 shows a coat that might interest you - it looks like a covert cloth overcoat with raglan sleeves and a ghille collar. If any one knows this coat and I've mis-named the collar style, I'd love a correction.

I've looked at the N&L site but did not find the jacket and am very tempted to have Edwin DeBoise at Steed build one for me.

One question that I have for anyone who has been down this path is what weight cloth would be too light? I would not be looking for a heavy winter coat, more the transitional coat. I'm thinking that this is in the 15-18 oz and not the 20-24 but have not "put my fingers to the cloth".

I'll follow this thread with interst,
DDM

[Concordia]

That's in the back of my mind also, and I suspect Ed might be the guy to make it happen. I do have a few "tweener" coats-- one in Donegal tweed and another in 16oz cavalry twill (navy). Those are town-cut coats, however. Something a shade less dressy but also just a little heavier than the Burberry could really be useful.

[DD MacDonald]

Something a shade less dressy but also just a little heavier than the Burberry could really be useful.

Concordia, my thoughts exactly.

DDM

[DD MacDonald]

To warm up an old dish, I found a photo of the overcoat that I mentioned earlier. I believe that the fabric is a whipcord or cav. twill rather than a cover cloth as I previously expected. Sadly I have not been able to figure out how to paste it in here and offer the following link:

http://www.newandlingwood.com/iashop.ph ... Height=763

The coat looks like a wonderful country/city crossover. I have a Burberry in olive cotton that is in its last phase of life and this overcoat would be an ideal upgrade/replacement.

DDM