Just how durable is flannel?

[Melcombe]

Late last year I took delivery of a two-piece tweed suit that has become an immediate favourite on account of its easy wearability (hopefully its style goes without saying!). Its comfort and appearance, I think, stems from the quality of the fabric. And so it should since that element alone cost over £400–but it was from W Bill and, in retrospect, I think it represents supremely good value : it's a joy to wear, especially at this time of year.

The next suit project is now in prospect. The main context for wearing it will not necessarily be work, but will probably include wearing it in Town, so some nod to formality might be preferred, but certainly isn't an essential.

I have been looking at some of the flannels available, particularly those from Fox Bros. Darker and with an overcheck might do the trick - they have one such with a blue windowpane in "10.5-11.5 oz" and a grey glen check, also a fine dogtooth both in "13/14 oz".

The common understanding (such as I have gathered, FWIW), seems to be that flannel isn't particularly durable or at the least, tends to a “well worn" appearance fairly quickly.

Is this really so? Will the best flannels go against this general rule? Would a 2nd pair of trews be an essential extra?

I would not expect to wear such a suit more than once a fortnight at most. Instead of flannel would some other form of tweed-like fabric be a better bet, such as birds-eye? My style icon is the Duke of Edinburgh, BTW, so I'm not really into 'shabby chic'...

All suggestions gratefully received!

David

[Simon A]

You will probably need the second pair of trousers if it is a woollen flannel. The suit will last for quite some years that way, instead of ending up as an orphaned suitcoat after a couple of years. If going for flannel, a 450-500 gramme weight drapes beautifully, is very warm and is more durable than 10-13 oz lightweight flannels, which can be a bit fragile. The depth of colour and the speckled nature of flannel is more rich in the heavier flannels too. Gorina of Spain make some nice plain coloured flannels in these weights. I think there are some interesting LL flannels coming up soon too.

[Pierre Spies]

Hello David

i recently received cloths from Fox : the middle gray with discrete clear windowpane and the houndstooth. They are indeed pretty light weight but look extremely good. I plan to have 2 pairs of trousers for each. Will post pics when suits are done but am still not sure as of yet how well it will drape...

Guillaume

[Pierre Spies]

Also, they have really nice heavy weight flannels for overcoats. I'm having a navy blue, 800gms ulster in the coming days. Their charcoal and RAF blue also look pretty nice.

[old henry]

Keep in mind the Harrissons worsted and woolen Flannels. They are very sturdy.
I like them very much. To me the Harrissons is what Flannel should be. They have two
heavy charcoals in the back that do my heart good. Thank you Harrissons. FS
[WBill and heavier Fox are very good too}

[Slewfoot]

While I don't have the Harrisons Frank just mentioned I do have a 14oz Minnis that I very much enjoy.

[old henry]

Absolutely.. JJMinnis.. Yes..

[Scot]

I have a navy Minnis flannel suit - about 16 oz. Although the trouser crease softens quickly I find it hard to believe it will ever wear out, it is such sturdy stuff! It's perfect for a winter city suit. I think some would say that woollen flannel looses it's shape - I have a feeling this may depend upon quality and making. On the other hand the knap may wear off worsted flannel.

[davidhuh]

I had a pair of odd trousers made with Minnis flannel a few weeks ago, 14 oz cloth, and been wearing them a couple of times since.

I am astonished how well this cloth keeps crease and shape. And it is just normal flannel, with all its qualities & properties

I will have a look at the Lesser Golden Bale bunch next time I see my tailor. The book was reissued by Harrisons last autumn. If anybody has collected experience, I would be grateful to hear about.

cheers, David

[Screaminmarlon]

Hi,
You might consider to have a second pair of trousers made even if you opt for worsted flannel. I'd go for a heavier woollen: is it more fragile? Yes, but it's a world a part until it lasts.
I'm glad Old Henry commented positively on Harrisons as I just took delivery of a lenght of their charcoal woollen flannel.

[hectorm]

I have been looking at some of the flannels available, particularly those from Fox Bros.
The common understanding (such as I have gathered, FWIW), seems to be that flannel isn't particularly durable or at the least, tends to a “well worn" appearance fairly quickly.

Is this really so? Will the best flannels go against this general rule?

Dear Melcombe,
As a constant wearer of wool flannel for more than 45 years (even my school uniforms were flannel) and judging from my own experience, I can tell you that your concerns regarding its durability are very well grounded. But who cares?
Learn to enjoy its magnificent drape, cozy warmth, and magical feel and look, without worrying too much about how long it would last.
I wear my one flannel suit (glen plaid Fox´s West of England 14.5 oz cloth with a touch of cashmere) sparingly for special weekends and only in cold weather, so I get to enjoy it maybe just 5 o 6 times a year. At the end of the day it creases a bit and loses its shape a bit, but later it recovers its form handsomely. At the current pace, it will last forever even without the need of a second pair of trousers (a great idea notwithstanding).

[Scot]

I had a pair of odd trousers made with Minnis flannel a few weeks ago, 14 oz cloth, and been wearing them a couple of times since.

I am astonished how well this cloth keeps crease and shape. And it is just normal flannel, with all its qualities & properties

I will have a look at the Lesser Golden Bale bunch next time I see my tailor. The book was reissued by Harrisons last autumn. If anybody has collected experience, I would be grateful to hear about.

cheers, David

The Minnis is great. I am having a suit made from the Golden Bale bunch at the moment - first fitting two days ago. First impressions are favourable; the tailor is happy and it's a fabulous shade of french blue. Only time will tell though, so I'll let you know in five or six years

[davidhuh]

I am having a suit made from the Golden Bale bunch at the moment - first fitting two days ago. First impressions are favourable; the tailor is happy and it's a fabulous shade of french blue. Only time will tell though, so I'll let you know in five or six years

Dear Scot,

thank you - would you share pictures please?

Cheers, david

[old henry]

hectorm hit the nail on the head. .."Who cares" .I ts the nature of the cloth. Good English flannel will wear for years and years. And when it starts to wear down a bit..... thats when its the best. Reread what he wrote above. Bang-on.

[alden]

Learn to enjoy its magnificent drape, cozy warmth, and magical feel and look, without worrying too much about how long it would last.

Yes, this is excellent advice. Well said Hectorm.

From a fellow flannel addict...

Michael

Cheers