Gordon Yao v P Johnson

[Budgiesmuggler]

I'm wanting to have a new suit made and am debating whether to go with Gordon
Yao's visiting tailor service in Sydney, or P Johnson tailors (high end MTM). Cost is roughly equal for both.

Gordon Yao needs no introduction on this forum. However with the visiting service in Sydney, he is having a single measurement fitting (body and best fitting suit) then mail the suit to me.there is no second fitting.

P Johnson tailors have a good reputation amongst some colleagues in Australia, but they are quite fashion forward. They are high end MTM and some of their work I've seen is excellent. They have an initial fitting for measurement, suit is manufactured in the Netherlands, then an additional fitting and alterations in Australia. Some of their work can be seen here: http://patrickjohnsontailors.tumblr.com/page/2

While I like the idea of going with a full bespoke tailor, I wonder if the one fitting and being located in HK puts P Johnson ahead? Its easier to build a relationship with a local tailor.

I am aware that their other bespoke tailors in Sydney but I can't justify their prices for the product received. I also have a bespoke suit from London that can be used by either tailor for measurements (and which should assist with only one fitting).

Any thoughts on either tailor would be appreciated (but GY visiting, not GY HK).

[hectorm]

Dear Budgiesmuggler,
Sooner or later you will surely want to establish a personal relationship with a good and trusted tailor. One that will last for many years and that will be very rewarding.
Then why not start it right now?
I´m completely biased against the scheme of traveling tailors no matter how illustrious the house name behind it or how good these guys are back in headquarters. They might cut your own pattern and ensemble your suit by hand, but IMHO the time and distance implied by traveling services detract significantly from what you should expect from a real bespoke experience (specially, but no only, during the fitting process).
So, if Patrick Johnson´s level of craftsmanship is satisfactory to you, I would put them way ahead of Yao´s traveling service and give it a try. Although your suit will be MTM in the Netherlands (no individual pattern, no baste nor forward fitting), it will be made to your specifications and it will be fitted by the same responsible tailor who took your measurements and who will be "around the corner" in Sidney.
I assume that you have also already considered and discarded the possibility of the services by John Cutler in Sidney who would be my first recommendation.
Another LL member who has recently done his homework regarding bespoke tailors in Sidney has come up with the decision of engaging the tailors of G.A. Zink and Sons for his commissioning of his wedding suit. It could be worthwhile exploring this alternative too.
Good luck.

[Badden]

I would opt for PJ as well. A paper pattern is good and all, but the real action happens at the fittings. GY's model of straight-finished suits, shipped sans fittings, sounds quite dicey.

[tchoy]

I have used both tailors question here with great results. Two very different products I don't think you'll be disappointed with either choices.

Patrick Johnson tends to cut a more modern slimmer softer suit. He is a very good fitter and have a very good eye. He wouldn't let you out the door until he is 100 per cent happy with the fit. Also he is doing the alterations in house, if things goes wrong it will be fix quickly. The minuses are there are limitation to MTM, you can't change the lapel width, no three button single breasted suit (only one or two buttons). It's still an excellent product for the price point here in Australia.

I had the added advantage of having fittings with GY in Hong Kong so I can't really comment on GY single measurement fitting visit to Sydney. For his Sydney visit he'll have my suit and a jacket for fittings because he already has my pattern. The garment he has made for me have been first class although the jackets are more structure than PJ, there are also more handwork than PJ. GY does cmt which is a big plus for me especially with my stockpile of LL cloths . I am hopeful GY will be visiting Sydney more often than he will be offering second fittings in the future, I guess that would only happen if there are enough repeat customers. Only problem I see using GY without fittings is you have to send your suit back to HK if problems arises which I am sure GY will correct it for you until you are satisfied.

Good luck with whoever you choose.

[hectorm]

Patrick Johnson tends to cut a more modern slimmer softer suit. He is a very good fitter and have a very good eye. The minuses are there are limitation to MTM, you can't change the lapel width.

I find that commissioning your own suit and not being able to have a say on your lapel width is simply unacceptable. You might just like the "house" width (their peak lapels on the SB look good IMO) but that is not what I would consider "high end" MTM. As little as half an inch could break or make the whole balance of the jacket depending on your height (or you could even want it broken on purpose and according to your style), and your tailor should be able to oblige.
For me, if that limitation is the case with P. Johnson, it would be too much of a compromise to make for establishing my relation with a tailor.
Find other alternatives. Sidney is a big city.

[DFR]

To be honest I have had several straight finished suits from Gordon without problem although others were fully fitted. Regrettably I cannot get to HK as often as I would wish but have experienced no problems.

I see your concern but it is not the risk you suggest.

[Budgiesmuggler]

I went and had a fitting from p Johnson recently. To confirm, the button stance and lapels can be changed.

And I went for a mid grey 2 button (in zenga I think).

[tchoy]

I went and had a fitting from p Johnson recently. To confirm, the button stance and lapels can be changed.

And I went for a mid grey 2 button (in zenga I think).

Good to hear! Patrick did told he was working on more options late last year.

[hectorm]

I went and had a fitting from p Johnson recently. To confirm, the button stance and lapels can be changed.

Great to hear, Budgiesmuggler.
Fixed lapel width didn't make much sense for a high end MTM. Now you have the best of both worlds: choosing your own options and being able to develop a face to face relation with your tailor.
Good luck.