Blog Project - Chris Despos Bespoke Process

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Simply Refined
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Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:07 am

Hopefully this won't sound too much like shameless self-promotion, but here goes...

I run the blog Simply Refined (http://www.thesimplyrefined.com) and write for a variety of blogs and magazines, and I am currently having my first bespoke suit made. It is with Chris Despos in Chicago, and I am blogging about the process, what I'm learning, what the experience is like for someone like me, etc. The first entry was last Monday, and you can find it here:

http://www.thesimplyrefined.com/chris-d ... rst-basted

The next installment (first basted fitting) will be going live Monday morning, and I would love any feedback from the LL. I will continue to post links to updates in this thread as they go live.

Thanks gentlemen.
davidhuh
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Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:21 am

Dear Stephen,

congratulations! You are in very good hands with Mr. Despos. Very nice choice of material for a first suit :D
I also like your writing - looking forward for the next episode!

Cheers, David
dempsy444
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Sun Feb 05, 2012 9:36 pm

Stephen,

I think this project is great. I enjoy your blog. Chris is making me a suit almost in tandem with yours it seems. It will be interesting to read your article as I go through the process as well. I have nothing but very good things to say about Chris so far. Great tailor. Great guy.
Garbo
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Mon Feb 06, 2012 2:12 pm

Dear Stephen,

Besides the links to your forum, could you also post here some photos ?

Thanks

Best Regards

Grégory
Simply Refined
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Mon Feb 06, 2012 4:28 pm

Thanks gentlemen for the nice feedback.

Here is a link to the most recent installment (basted fitting) and copies of the images:

http://www.thesimplyrefined.com/chris-d ... st-basted/


Image

Image

Image
Costi
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Mon Feb 06, 2012 5:02 pm

Admirable suit and enthusiasm - on both sides of the shears! :D
Stephen wrote: Funny that what will be the most voluminous trousers in my closet will also be the most slimming.
Good to hear that! As far as I can see, the trousers' legs have a nice taper to them, which is only possible when you start with some... "volume" in the upper part.
The sleeves look excellent, too.
I think you're hooked, Stephen :wink: And so are we to your enthusiastic story-telling. Do enjoy... (I know you do!)
Simply Refined
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Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:48 pm

Thank you on all fronts Costi. And yes, I'm completely hooked.

Funny you mention the trouser legs. I actually sent Chris a photo of you in your Eden in Paris Kent-style suit as a model for how I would like to shape the trouser legs. That clean, straight-ish drape just can't be beat in my opinion.
Costi
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Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:27 am

My trousers will be happy to have cousins abroad :) Having them lined or unlined?
What you don't see in the pics is that I like my side tabs just under the waistband, which works to extend (practically double) its depth, improving the grip. The waistband is more rigid and doesn't easily wrinkle under the side tabs when you pull them; if it does yield, the wrinkle may become uncomfortable. But under the waistband, the soft cloth does what you need it to and makes no protest.
uppercase
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Tue Feb 07, 2012 3:46 pm

Very nice, clean looking suit there by Despos.
And interesting blog as well!
Thanks.
J.S. Groot
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Tue Feb 07, 2012 4:24 pm

Costi wrote:What you don't see in the pics is that I like my side tabs just under the waistband, which works to extend (practically double) its depth, improving the grip.
You mentioned this somewhere else. I tried it. It works. Great tip!
Costi
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Tue Feb 07, 2012 4:53 pm

J.S. Groot wrote:
Costi wrote:What you don't see in the pics is that I like my side tabs just under the waistband, which works to extend (practically double) its depth, improving the grip.
You mentioned this somewhere else. I tried it. It works. Great tip!
Thanks, I'm glad it was useful! :) I didn't invent it, of course, but so often it is a matter of good choices, rather than inventing the wheel. Bespoke is about freedom - freedom of choice. Nothing more difficult than that in fact...
Simply Refined
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Tue Feb 07, 2012 5:31 pm

That is how Chris says he does his side tabs usually. Before this suit I had him add some adjusters like this to some ready-made trousers for me and I love them so far. We haven't discussed lining yet, but I figured to the knees. Any suggestions on this front?

Talking about it so much I'm really itching for my next fitting....
Costi
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Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:14 pm

You'll be itching even more when the lining is in place. Skip it! Feel the cloth on your thighs. You'll know all the time what you're wearing :)
Pierre Spies
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Tue Feb 07, 2012 10:02 pm

Costi wrote:You'll be itching even more when the lining is in place. Skip it! Feel the cloth on your thighs. You'll know all the time what you're wearing :)
One of the best advice Costi gave me ;) you'll realize that trousers linings are nothing good for 90% of cloth.
Simply Refined
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Wed Feb 08, 2012 2:53 am

Well gentlemen, I think that settles that issue.
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