FDR´s cape at Yalta

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Noble Savage
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Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:31 pm

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Noble Savage
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Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:34 pm

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U.S. MARINE CORPS UNIFORM BOARD
UNIFORM ITEMS AND REGULATIONS FOR THEIR WEAR

3003. BOATCLOAK/DRESS CAPE (See fig. 2-1)

1. The boatcloak, made of dark blue broadcloth material lined with scarlet wool broadcloth, is an optional item which may be worn by male officers and SNCOs with evening dress and blue dress "A"/"B" uniforms for official and social functions. It will not be worn when the blue dress uniform is worn as the uniform of the day.

2. The dress cape, made of dark blue polyester-wool tropical material lined with scarlet satin rayon cloth, is an optional item which may be worn by female officers and SNCOs with the evening dress and blue dress "A"/"B" uniforms for official and social functions. It will not be worn when the blue dress uniform is worn as the uniform of the day.
Noble Savage
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Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:42 pm

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U.S. Navy Lieutenants in overcoat and Boat Cloak (1917)

http://bluejacket.com/sea-service_uniform_c.htm
Noble Savage
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Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:43 pm

Royal Navy

Edit: Out of date image link removed.

A Royal Naval boat cloak, with gilt brass buttons and neck chain; together with a Vice-Admiral's jacket complete with medal ribbons, and a corresponding cap and trousers.

Edit: Out of date image link removed.

U.S. Navy Boat Cloak, c. 1933
Edit: Out of date image link removed.
Last edited by Noble Savage on Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
castiglione
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Mon Jan 09, 2012 6:10 pm

hectorm wrote:
castiglione wrote: I have a similar cape, the only missing point is the cordon. I will try to fix the problem.
Castiglione,
once you fix the problem with the fastener, where and how do you plan to wear your cloak?
Hector.
I always wore the cape with my evening dress. Standard procedure. Unbeknowst to me I was dressing like a Rear Admiral of the Royal Navy or a catholic priest. My cape is a bespoke garment cut many years ago at Seseña, the Madrid taylor outlet for traditional Madrid capes which I do not like because they are too short. Besides they have a kind of surplice over the shoulders. The result is (except for the fastener) very similar to the Rear Admiral garment. And to FDR´s cape. Kind of eerie. As to the fastener I am sure the club´s pack will be able to share with me the address and whereabouts of an odd and centenary London biz where fasteners design and manufacture has been going on since the days of the Norman conquest. :D
I have to find the cape though. Moving, moving, moving.
Noble Savage
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Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:17 am

This has got to be one of the oldest garments still worn on a regular basis, academic dress excluded. The basic design hasn't changed much several centuries. It certainly is a refined covering for formal dress, when an ordinary overcoat is just too informal, as well as offering very practical protection from the elements.

The longer version is definitely better for being longer and more practical. In fact, being longer means it is enough to cover both mine, and a lady's shoulders, should they get cold when going about.
castiglione
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Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:42 am

Noble Savage wrote:This has got to be one of the oldest garments still worn on a regular basis, academic dress excluded. The basic design hasn't changed much several centuries. It certainly is a refined covering for formal dress, when an ordinary overcoat is just too informal, as well as offering very practical protection from the elements.

The longer version is definitely better for being longer and more practical. In fact, being longer means it is enough to cover both mine, and a lady's shoulders, should they get cold when going about.
Wise use of the garment, Hector, clever thing to do. I advice to have a look at the weather forecast before the date. If the weather is foul the cape might be a good shortcut on your way to expected rewards. Never used it that way, though. Dating was by then a thing of the past. It has another genteel use too. If the ground is slippery or full of ponds a gent is supposed to throw the cape before HER so that his belle might step on dry ground. Definitely a killer. Never did it, just heard about it. And since we are at that, is anybody there knowledgeable about fasteners for capes? Sure thing SR has to have something to offer. Thank you in advance.
hectorm
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Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:46 pm

castiglione wrote: And since we are at that, is anybody there knowledgeable about fasteners for capes? Sure thing SR has to have something to offer
If you have your mind set on SR, then Gieves and Hawkes has a military department surpassed by none. Here´s the link.

http://www.gievesandhawkesmilitary.com/
castiglione
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Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:26 am

Dear Hector, thank you. I see nothing in the GaH web page but no doubt they will have something to offer. Truth to be told my cape is not military at all. It is my own design and does not differ very much from Alden´s venetian tabarro. But GaH may be the answer. I will give them a try possibly this spring. Thanks again
castiglione
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Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:31 am

castiglione wrote:
Noble Savage wrote:This has got to be one of the oldest garments still worn on a regular basis, academic dress excluded. The basic design hasn't changed much several centuries. It certainly is a refined covering for formal dress, when an ordinary overcoat is just too informal, as well as offering very practical protection from the elements.

The longer version is definitely better for being longer and more practical. In fact, being longer means it is enough to cover both mine, and a lady's shoulders, should they get cold when going about.
Wise use of the garment, Hector, clever thing to do. I advice to have a look at the weather forecast before the date. If the weather is foul the cape might be a good shortcut on your way to expected rewards. Never used it that way, though. Dating was by then a thing of the past. It has another genteel use too. If the ground is slippery or full of ponds a gent is supposed to throw the cape before HER so that his belle might step on dry ground. Definitely a killer. Never did it, just heard about it. And since we are at that, is anybody there knowledgeable about fasteners for capes? Sure thing SR has to have something to offer. Thank you in advance.
My apologies for having replied to the wrong person, noble brute. I meant to address my reply to you. So sorry. (neigh) :D
NJS

Fri Jan 13, 2012 8:06 am

G&H recently made a very fine Inverness-style opera cloak for a friend of mine ('Count Dracul'). Ryder Haggard used to wear a boat cloak type of cape, which I think looks a little neater.
hectorm
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Fri Jan 13, 2012 4:16 pm

castiglione wrote: I see nothing in the GaH web page but no doubt they will have something to offer. Truth to be told my cape is not military at all.
You had mentioned that your cape was originally bespoken by Seseña in Madrid. Have you tried that course of action for your fastener?
castiglione
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Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:59 pm

hectorm wrote:
castiglione wrote: I see nothing in the GaH web page but no doubt they will have something to offer. Truth to be told my cape is not military at all.
You had mentioned that your cape was originally bespoken by Seseña in Madrid. Have you tried that course of action for your fastener?
To quote Somerset Maugham in an evangelic mood, you should not ask from somebody more than he can give. (Sigh) I prefer to stick to my understated clip than ply unchartered waters. When the time comes I will discuss the issue either with Benson and Clegg or with GaH. And warm thanks for so much info and so enlightening. And entertaining.
Noble Savage
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Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:38 am

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The fastening is similar to those on certain hussar uniforms.

The U.S. Navy version has some sort of complex nautical (?) knot.
See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_decorative_knots
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_knot
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ashley_Book_of_Knots
castiglione
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Sat Jan 14, 2012 4:23 pm

Dear NB. The head is not more native to the heart, the hand more instrumental to the mouth than a hussar to a noble brute. Yet weight age and spine deny me the joy of riding. Your monography on knots is duly acknowledged and thanked. Yet...would you happen to know something on chains? (No kidding) I am seriously thinking of having more than one fastener. One could be a lucky chinese knot for chinese events, other japanese for alternative far eastern parties, a solemn one for european evenings and the like. Since the tag price is minimal the only limits are imagination and supply. The good taste is taken for granted. Happy ride, tally ho!
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