The plague of publicity

[Scot]

Some venerable Savile Row institutions that preserved, for decades, an admirable sense of discretion, seem now to be grasping every available opportunity to sell themselves. Is this a good idea? Do they need it? Can raising the profile of the apparel arts ever be a bad thing? I am not sure of the answers to these questions but when the same sharp-suited journalist(s) are wheeled out time and again to peddle their banalities I can't help feeling the whole thing is rather debased.

It is notable that it's always the same, large, SR houses that are involved. Publicity may attract some but are they the kind of client who will really help to preserve and develop bespoke as a living tradition or are they just reacting to the latest "cool" thing they saw on their television screen; a passing fancy to be taken-up and dropped with equal rapidity?

If I were advising a first time bespeaker in this environment I would be very tempted to say look for the firm you never hear of but which has been around for a hundred years or so and is doing very nicely thank you; which is owned by tailors; where the man (or woman) who shakes you by the hand as you walk through the door is the man (or woman) who will cut your suit. You may not have the satisfaction of seeing your tailor's shop in a glossy magazine every weekend but you will have the satisfaction of having worked with people whose attention is focussed on their individual clients; which must, surely, be what bespoke is about.

[simonc]

Your sentiments seem sensible. The big names on Savile Row are desperate to cash in on the money that flows into fashion and luxury garments - whether that be a Tom Ford suit or a Brioni jacket. Getting as much publicity is an attempt to do this, even if as you say it is the same houses and the same presenter (am I alone in being wholly unimpressed by the cut of many of his suits?).

'Savile Row' seems to be diverging into two models - big-name houses who draw publicity, and artisan-led houses who draw clients interested in a relationship and craftsmanship (which is not to say the former group are incapable of delivering this).

Whilst straddling the two, Norton & Sons seems an example of the former - Patrick Grant is at heart a marketing man and seems to want to cross-pollinate the Row cachet with his strongly priced RTW offering.

[dempsy444]

I see nothing wrong with the firms on SR promoting themselves as they see more and more money flocking to fashionable OTR or Italy. I think the Row has to be careful though. Publicity and PR with bespoke may be different than it is for ready to wear. In ready to wear, what you see is what you get. But In bespoke, it isn't necessarily. What you get may not be what you were promised. If Savile Row has someone like James Sherwood going around hyping the virtues of SR bespoke, the Row better be prepared to live up to it!

The biggest risk I see for the Row is that large brand name houses like Huntsman or Kilgour decide to over monetize their brand, thus draining the Row's equity. This would happen if they decide to cash in on their long developed reputation by taking on too much business and not meeting the standard of work that got them that reputation many years ago.

This would damage people's perception of bespoke causing them to go back to OTR or to Italy, and the smaller and more genuine bespoke tailors in London would suffer.

Thus I don't think publicity is a risk but I do think the temptation to over promise and under deliver because there is a lot of money in it, is.

[NJS]

Possibly, SR has been sold the concept of mass marketing techniques in modern, glossy magazines and certain internet sites, because it suits those who are selling them the oily patter (sometimes in return for 'freebies') but it is unlikely that the marketing reaches many who have a real interest in bespoke clothing. Accordingly, the debasement, evident in the exercise is avoidable and, hence, rather pitiable; like so much else in this age.

[old henry]

"Oily patter".. nice.

[NJS]

"Oily patter".. nice.

It is and it isn't! if you see what I mean. I think that the old approach taken by SR was quite deadpan and dry at first, until they got to know you and then they'd tell you their anecdotes and reminiscences.

Even in the 1980s most of the custom was from abroad; importantly the USA and Germany and, by then, the tailors were complaining that the coming generation was not interested (on the one hand) in apprenticeships and (on the other) in making commissions. I don't think that there is any quick fix for it, except to make it plain that it is business as usual and there are enough men (and women) left for the time to keep the current firms in business. But just look at all the firms that have gone...

[Simon A]

k

[alden]

The misguided thing in all of this is that rather than clarifying and defining the values of the craft, they seem to want to cozen up to fashion. It is as if the trade has decided to join 'em cause they can't beat 'em.

The irony is that the best suit a man can possibly acquire is a true benchmade suit made by one man. The experience of having one craftsman measure, cut, fit and finish a garment for you by hand is without rival. I would not have my clothes made any other way. And real bespoke aficionados rarely will step into any shop. They want to be as close to the bench as they can. Yet, these supreme craftsmen work away in complete anonymity because their identities are jealously guarded secrets. How fun! It makes a completely spectacular mockery of all the hype and marketing.

Its been nearly ten years now that I have advised readers to seek out craftsmen who still make benchmade clothing...while they are still around. Forget the ads, forget the publicity, burn some shoe leather and find the real stuff.

Cheers

Michael

[NJS]

^I agree that the true bespoke makers should be differentiating and distinguishing themselves from RTW and MTM instead of being hauled (some more reluctantly than others) aboard the wrong bandwagon.

[old henry]

I do not think that is what Michael is saying exactly. Along with RTW and MTM I do believe he is also including the rapidly decaying Savile Row with their neo-non-tailors and their arrogant front men. English cloth is suffering the same decay.

[Despos]

Michael, I agree with your thoughts 100%.
Saville Row tailors are in the same spot American car maker Cadillac was a few years back. They had cache with a certain generation but needed to reach a younger audience so they adapt a strategy to reach this new group. Rather than "clarifying and defining the values of the craft" they try to repackage themselves to this group. They lose their uniqueness and identity and fail to "clarify and define the values of the craft" along the way. Even in print, very few writers are able to grasp and translate into words what the bespoke experience or a benchmade garment is.
This is sort of my reasoning to not have a web site. You don't get to know a tailor or his work online, it requires a more personal and hands on approach. Selecting a tailor or buying clothing is best done face to face.
At some point I'll probably put a page online to provide the basics like contact info and travel schedule as a convenience to clients and potential clients and maybe a few lines that "clarify and define the values of the craft".

[aston]

It might be possible to draw an analogy with "celebrity" chefs here.

I have worked in the hospitality business around the world for years and years, and have seen at first hand the evolution of these chefs, indeed have known many of them. They have slowly moved from being great in their own kitchen, to becoming "well known", to being asked to give opinions, to appearing at events, then maybe a bit of TV, and on and on, and then before you know it they get this "celebrity" thing, which is loosely based on their original skill and talent, but is much more about them being a "name", in a position to "outname" other "names".

By this time, they have a crowd of admirers, but the thing they had at the beginning which was the driver of this "celebrity", being an outstanding proponent of their own craft, is no longer the force which drives them.

There are of course honourable exceptions to this, those for whom being in their kitchen everyday, cooking the food that their customers will directly consume, is their only motivation, but what price fame?

[dempsy444]

To Frank's point, can't bench made itself get bastardized? Aren't we really relying on the character and discipline of the trade to overcome the natural temptation to put throughput above artisanship. At some point doesn't some businessman walk into the cutting room and say to a cutter "you need to make 4.5 bench made suits a month instead of 3.9?" I'm guessing that some strong minds resist this pressure but wouldn't it inevitably win a little at some point?

The traveling tailor scheme is one I have appreciated because it brings the tailor to me but I'm not sure a tailor can do his best level of work under such a constraining system. While it's a much appreciated service, if this is indeed the case, isn't it a small indication that the trade is willing to compromise the bespoke process to some degree for the sake of more business?

[dempsy444]

It might be possible to draw an analogy with "celebrity" chefs here.

Good analogy. We have a lot of this in CA.

[alden]

Frank and Chris

A few years ago I was genuinely concerned about the fate of bespoke. There was a pale shroud draped over the trade. Now with the grafting of a new and more flexible set of values the old tree may live on, but in what condition? It's sort of like the final scene in "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest." Deep inside don't we want a big Indian to sit on SR's face?

The frontal lobotomy, if one should occur, will be have been self inflicted. I fear the uptick from the new failed strategy will be short lived and the traditional customer disgusted by the foray will not return. The big Indian may sit after all.

Yes, shopping for bespoke on the net is a self defeating process. Men who would never dream to recruit a lawyer, heart surgeon, auditor, or nanny on the net, throw themselves at the latest post on a forum (populated by sales reps for tailors), or to blogs fueled by kickbacks and sales incentives towards that next free suit. Funny. Sorry, not so funny.

I guess things just have to be easy these days. (Some real dodgy talk is on the way, so you may want to turn down the volume to protect the innocent.) It used to be that earning money was a chore. It required a good deal of hard work and sacrifice. So when parting with one's hard fought wages, a due amount of pleasure or at least satisfaction was required in exchange. And one took great pains and walked that extra mile to make sure to do business with the right people. It could be earning is so easy these days that parting with one's spoils is undertaken in cavalier fashion. I default to my advice: take the time to find true practitioners of the arts you admire in whatever field and you will be well served.

I am also very glad that real craftsmen come around to "clarify and define the values of the craft" on the LL! I speak for everyone here when I say how much your dedication to the craft and participation here is appreciated.

Cheers

Michael Alden