Notch level for DB lapel

[davidhuh]

Dear Michael,

any chance to do this cloth again?

cheers, David

[castiglione]

Dear Michael,

any chance to do this cloth again?

cheers, David

I second the motion.

[Anikolov1]

Would the level of the notch on a single breasted coat be judged in a similar fashion? 1-2cm below the end of the tie knot?

I am aware of the fact that I like my notches lower than what a tailor would cut nowadays, but never could explain where I want them to sit precisely.


Best,
Alex

[alden]

Would the level of the notch on a single breasted coat be judged in a similar fashion? 1-2cm below the end of the tie knot?

The position of the notch on an SB is pretty flexible. A high notch lengthens the lapel and slims the line, so tailors serving shorter, thicker men (as in Naples) prefer a higher notch and a slightly lower button point. Tall, slender men might prefer a lower notch but it really depends on what their eye tells them and how they want to look.

IMG_1446 by The London Lounge, on Flickr

XVMa5602592-e63b-11e7-bf17-4de11cee9913 by The London Lounge, on Flickr

tumblr_m4fe4phA9p1qfex1b by The London Lounge, on Flickr

A DB notch that is either too high or too low stands out more than an SB notch probably because the DB lapel is generally larger. and catches our attention more than the SB lapel. Part of the charm of the DB are it's slightly flamboyant lapels positioned without exaggeration. The SB lapel is more forgiving.

[Concordia]

I thought it worthwhile posting an image of one of my own, where the notch sits a shade lower, and almost horizontally. I like the wider overlap, despite having quite a bit of width through the middle myself. I know some would think it unflattering for a more rotund frame like my own, but for some reason it just looks more flattering to my eye.

The cloth is Harrisons Grand Cru, by the by.



desu

Chan is quite insistent on that alignment. They make lovely SB PL jackets with bellied, high-notch lapels. But doing the same for DB, as Anderson’s would do, is off limits for them.

Strangely, I have liked their DB on me very much in spite of that. Adding to the benefit, I find their DB pattern actually fits me better. Usually the opposite is true.

[alden]

There is a request for a rerun of the Mistral in Mid Gray contained in this thread. Your thoughts?

BTW, that picture shows a good level for lapels.

Mistral DB LL Sartoria by The London Lounge, on Flickr

[Loden]

Dear Michael,

I had a SB made from my RAF Mistral recently and it is great. I would love to have a mid grey too.

Cheers Ingmar