Smith Woollens flannels

[Samuel]

Earlier today my tailor showed me what may be an older flannel book by Smith Woollens. I neglected to ask how long it has been around.

I know the current "Luxury Flannels" book well. The 10 oz. flannels in that book are superb.

This book is also labeled "Luxury Flannels." Included are 100's 8 oz. flannels, as well as 9 oz. flannels (the grey, #2605, is just the right shade). Best I recall, that same book shows woollen doeskin--a true navy (#3133) and another shade of navy that a friend of mine would refer to as "Yale Blue" (#3132).

I wonder: Has anyone used cloth from this book? I'd appreciate feedback on how it tailors.
Thanks.

[Slewfoot]

Interesting. I would love to hear as well about these other flannels. I have the gray #2546 in 9/10oz which tailors beautifully as a double-breasted and is one of my favorite garments. Do you know if there are any subtle chalk stripes in the 9oz-ish weight range?

[Jordan Marc]

Samuel & Slewfoot:

Unless both of you are living in very warm climates, 9 to 10 ounce flannels are somewhat lightweight for your needs, especially during fall and winter. Both of you would be better off and more comfortable with a 14 1/2 ounce per meter West of England wool flannel from Fox Flannels or J&J Minnis. Make sure you buy enough cloth so your tailor can make an extra pair of trousers.

JMB

[Slewfoot]

I do also have a Minnis Air Force Blue 14oz flannel and love that as well! I find the Smiths 9/10oz flannel great for Fall and Spring and works well in Winter with a long, heavy overcoat. It also perform very nicely in environments that are well heated so one doesn't fry while indoors in some places. It also drapes very well for its weightclass.

[Samuel]

The #2511 is maybe my favorite shade of grey for flannel.

Yes, I do recall seeing stripes. Not in the 100's 8 oz., but in the heavier weight cloth.

JMB, that's good advice. I have a couple of heavier weight flannel suits, including the light grey Minnis. Perfect for January through late March.

The Minnis Air Force Blue--yes, a great shade of blue. I am envious. I've been pondering that cloth for a vested suit for years.

Of all the cloth in this recently discovered book, I find the woollen doeskin (12/13 oz., if my memory serves me) the most intriguing. The "Yale Blue" is unique.

[cathach]

Does anyone know of a 16oz flannel book anywhere? I'm finding it quite difficult to find any, and any that are out there are black or charcoal both shades I wouldn't be interested in.

[Rowly]

Some nice heavier flannels here.....

http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jjm&c=7&p=3

[Jordan Marc]

Cathach:

Google Huddlesfield Fine Worsteds and tap on Flannels. You'll find a range of wool flannels in 14 to 17oz per meter weights, most of which seem to be plain flannels.

JMB

[rodes]

Here is the problem for me. The Smith #2540 is the perfect pattern, almost a 1 inch chalk stripe. The HS #757609 is somewhat close. Yet both are only 11 ounces. The Minnis #0314 and Fox #1797/33 are a better weight, 13 ounces, yet the 5/8 inch stripe is a bit too narrow for my taste. The above flannels are all gray but the situation with the navy and dark blue are the same. Would appreciate any advice.
I guess this is a trivial matter compared to some of the pressing problems that confront the world.

[Concordia]

Perhaps the Lessers book has one? Barring that, Harrisons has some pretty beefy standards.

[Samuel]

The heavier flannels in the Smith books felt sturdy enough.

Does anyone know who's making the Minnis flannel? Robust stuff, if a bit stiff and dry to the touch. Definitely not suiting flannel for men who spend most of their day in a heated office. That AF Blue is a winner. The H & S Air Force Blue in the book that's a few years old is marked "Made in England," which may mean Fox.

Fox's lighter weight (worsted, but with the nap of a woollen) flannels are outstanding. FS625/A1290122 is a 9/10 oz. Cambridge grey. MWF5/A0012/22 is basically the same shade, only a bit heavier. MWF5/P0012/11 is a light grey that's nearly identical to the lightest of the Minnis greys. And then there's an Air Force Blue, FS678/AO731/33, around 9 oz.

[cathach]

Here is the problem for me. The Smith #2540 is the perfect pattern, almost a 1 inch chalk stripe. The HS #757609 is somewhat close. Yet both are only 11 ounces. The Minnis #0314 and Fox #1797/33 are a better weight, 13 ounces, yet the 5/8 inch stripe is a bit too narrow for my taste. The above flannels are all gray but the situation with the navy and dark blue are the same. Would appreciate any advice.
I guess this is a trivial matter compared to some of the pressing problems that confront the world.

I'd agree with you there, the patterns and variety that one would like are very often only available in the 11oz range. The heavier stuff is dull as ditch-water as a rule. I did pick up one nice grey chalk stripe worsted flannel from HFW but that was chance. POW checks, coloured stripes, windowpane checks etc. are very hard to find.

[Rowly]

Check out the reincarnation of the Coops pow...currently being considered as a 17 oz flannel !
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... ops#p56742

follow it here......
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 7&start=15

[rogiercreemers]

I visited Fox flannels some months ago, and they have a wonderfully large collection of flannel suiting lengths available in many colours, weights and patterns. They are also very helpful over the phone and email.