Velvet?

[Manself]

I was recently discussing the question "Why bother when no one else does?" with the actor Bill Nighy, for an interview that appeared on the Mr Porter website - it's worth seeking out for Mr Nighy's amazing passion for clothes.

When I asked him why he likes to habitually wear a blue suit every day regardless of where he's going his answer, which he said he'd cribbed off Jarvis Cocker, was "You never know who you might bump into."

Given the way most men dress (and how early and abruptly my children get up in the morning) there are days I feel that it doesn't matter if I wear yesterday's shirt again, or if I fail to shave. However, there aren't days when I don't regret having made such a decision, particularly if I find myself in a situation, whether social, romantic or professional, where I know that dressing properly (and feeling good about myself as a result) would have been advantageous.

I'd suggest we members of the Lounge know what's right in terms of putting on clothes, it's just that we're sometimes tempted to forget it by the way other men dress. To an extent this is old fashioned, but only in the same way that not texting or writing emails on a Blackberry when you're eating lunch with someone is old fashioned.

We should all be encouraged by the fact that lots of young guys, who've never really known what it is to dress formally under duress (so they don't have any negative connotations), are choosing to embrace tailored clothes, smart shoes, ties and pocket squares. The slide towards slovenly informality isn't inevitable, and a minority of men will, I believe, always perceive the undeniable advantage offered by looking good.

[NJS]

In a sense "Why bother when no one else does?" has brought about the current state of things but you are right that there will always be a number of men who do bother often enough. Footballers and their managers seem to be at least well clothed and some are also well dressed. Given that they have style influences on the young that, in itself, suggests that there is cause for hope.

[davidhuh]

When I asked him why he likes to habitually wear a blue suit every day regardless of where he's going his answer, which he said he'd cribbed off Jarvis Cocker, was "You never know who you might bump into."

Very good point. Another one would be honoring the people you are going to meet, regardless of who they are.

Today, I had lunch with a handicapped lady who depends on walking sticks due to an awful rare disease. I met her in my nicest tweed suit - and she was so delighted to sit with the best dressed man in the restaurant. It takes little to bring some joy in other people's life.

cheers, david

[cathach]

I experimented with velvet jackets some years ago, they are okay for light-hearted evening wear but too flippant for day wear. Unless you are a Chinese grannie at Lunar New Year, in which case your seniority entitles you to do exactly as you please

As a matter of interest does anyone know of a source for silk velvet? I can't seem to find much of it anywhere and when I do its invariably made in China/India. However one of my objuectives is supporting local manufacturing so I'd prefer to use a European made cloth.

As for the eternal question why? Often the best answer is why not? It's mine anyway.

[SMCK]

I have yet to discover even a European site which sells chinese silk. There seem to be a number of US sites selling silk which they will dye for you. But it is difficult to get an idea as to weight etc.I am still interested in this as a project in spite of its unpopularity here. I envisage something similar to the one I have posted above for casual evening wear; something more than a conventional suit and less than a black Dinner jacket.

[hectorm]

As a matter of interest does anyone know of a source for silk velvet? However one of my objectives is supporting local manufacturing so I'd prefer to use a European made cloth.

I have yet to discover even a European site which sells chinese silk.

Cathach and SMCK,
if you are really interested, the German textile trading company Werner Eickelmann GmbH sells silk velvet in Europe. Although the specific origin of those fabrics is not clear in their website.

http://www.eickelmann.com/velvet.html

[cathach]

As a matter of interest does anyone know of a source for silk velvet? However one of my objectives is supporting local manufacturing so I'd prefer to use a European made cloth.

I have yet to discover even a European site which sells chinese silk.

Cathach and SMCK,
if you are really interested, the German textile trading company Werner Eickelmann GmbH sells silk velvet in Europe. Although the specific origin of those fabrics is not clear in their website.

http://www.eickelmann.com/velvet.html

Thanks for that, I'm waiting on a reply from that company. Does anyone have any back-up sources for silk velvet, just in case this one doesn't come through?

[st.tully]

Henry Poole has blue silk velvet in stock - although I do not know if they will sell a length. Of course they will be happy to make you a jacket. I did not inquire the price. Good luck! St.Tully

[hectorm]

Thanks for that, I'm waiting on a reply from that company. Does anyone have any back-up sources for silk velvet, just in case this one doesn't come through?

Cathach,
after some quick inquiry on the Internet and a conversation with a gentleman from the textile trade, I came upon a few interesting results:
i. most of the big houses on SR carry silk velvet. Its used mainly (but not frequently) for bespoke smoking jackets but also for other purposes (collars, lapels, etc).
ii. most of the silk velvet commercially available comes -no surprise here- from China. Some from India and also from Taiwan. Very few European mills still produce the fabric, and in these cases it not for apparel but upholstery.
iii. unfortunately most of the silk velvet nowadays is called silk velvet but is not pure silk but a blend with other fibers. Mainly rayon. The amount of silk in the blend commonly goes as low as only 15%. Apparently pure silk velvet would be outrageously expensive.
Merry Christmas

[cathach]

Cathach,
after some quick inquiry on the Internet and a conversation with a gentleman from the textile trade, I came upon a few interesting results:
i. most of the big houses on SR carry silk velvet. Its used mainly (but not frequently) for bespoke smoking jackets but also for other purposes (collars, lapels, etc).
ii. most of the silk velvet commercially available comes -no surprise here- from China. Some from India and also from Taiwan. Very few European mills still produce the fabric, and in these cases it not for apparel but upholstery.
iii. unfortunately most of the silk velvet nowadays is called silk velvet but is not pure silk but a blend with other fibers. Mainly rayon. The amount of silk in the blend commonly goes as low as only 15%. Apparently pure silk velvet would be outrageously expensive.
Merry Christmas

And a prosperous and happy New Year to you,

Thanks very much for the reply and this is verified by what I've come across so far. Most sellers of silk and silk velvets will not tell you where the cloth was milled, and in many cases will not tell you the content of rayon etc. in the blend. Silk velvet for upholstery continues to be made but also little information on where and by whom. I imagine though that it would drape reasonably well and could be made up though? Does anyone have experience in this?

[Costi]

dressing properly (and feeling good about myself as a result)

That's the point, to me - more than whom I am going to meet, bump into or date. If anything, my interest is not in what others think about my dress, but what they think about ME. Part of feeling that I am myself lies in my dress. So if I want to offer others the best of ME, I need to FEEL the best of me and, if my dress depresses me, it's hard to do that. So I dress for myself, to my own taste, for my own pleasure and, by doing that, I am in my best mood / shape for others, as Manself wrote.

We should all be encouraged by the fact that lots of young guys, who've never really known what it is to dress formally under duress (so they don't have any negative connotations), are choosing to embrace tailored clothes, smart shoes, ties and pocket squares.

Good point about the way (formal) dress is perceived by those who never HAD to dress that way.


UPPERCASE, you've had too much of good stuff, perhaps. You CAN get sick of caviar... Get off bespoke for a while, so you may MISS it again! That's basic for any relationship...

[hectorm]

Silk velvet for upholstery continues to be made but also little information on where and by whom. I imagine though that it would drape reasonably well and could be made up though? Does anyone have experience in this?

Cathach,
my experience in the subject is nil but I would have to strongly advise you against considering silk velvet made for upholstery as a suitable fabric for your clothes.
Upholstery fabrics are produced with hard wearing in mind and will not drape well.
Besides, now we both know that most of this "silk velvet" sold out there is not really pure silk and not even a natural fiber either. I'm sure you don't want to host your soirees wearing a dinner or smoking jacket made of polymers.

[davidhuh]

I'm sure you don't want to host your soirees wearing a dinner or smoking jacket made of polymers.

[cathach]

I'm sure you don't want to host your soirees wearing a dinner or smoking jacket made of polymers.

Dead straight brother!

I've made a number of enquiries now, including with an Italian mill. As many are shut now I'll have to wait until mid-January for replies to filter back. I'll update you all as soon as I get definite responses on the state of production of this cloth.

davidhuh, costi and manself: fantastic notes on dressing, and why we dress, as always.

[NJS]

Most modern 'silk' velvet hardly justifies the term and is stiff and uncomfortable: perfectly good for uphoulstery but hardly any use for comfortable clothing. I have seen two pieces of real 100% silk velvet (my grandmother's sewing bag and a silk collar on my dress coat) and they are quite different from the modern offering.
NJS