Caring for shoes - How much care is really necessary?

[NJS]

U-C: If you are going to live abroad, I strongly recommend that you consider the things to take and the things to off-load. We have still got a mountain of stuff stored in England and really wish that we had got rid of most of it. If you make the leap, you will soon realize that most possessions are just an encumbrance on - essentially freedom of movement: true impedimenta! Moving it all around (and paying for it), insuring it, housing it, securing it, worrying about it. Better by far to get rid of it!

Moreover, lingering memories of lugging and hauling and humping ruddy great, mammoth-like suitcases (stuffed to breaking point with useless rubbish) from the nervy scrummage surrounding airport carousels and pushing them around on groaning trolleys, with defective wheels, mean that I would never, ever, ever (I don't care what she says), ever again travel on an airplane with more than: a down pillow, a good book, a notepad and pencils, a box of sweets, a snuff box, a few large handkerchiefs, a hipflask, eau de cologne (each when permissible), a toothbrush, a razor, a comb and the smallest possible cabin bag to put it all in. There is some great merit, on short trips, in cutting it all down to: toothbrush, razor and comb. Then you just watch the lemmings running off down the rat-run towards the carousel. You smile a little smile - and get the hell outa there.
NJS

I couldn't agree with you more!

There's a particular joy in traveling light. And living lightly as well. I've been through my schlepping days and they are over for good.

Like you, I also take no more than one small carry on bag on trips. What doesn't fit, doesn't go.

When moving overseas, junk your possessions I say. Start over fresh. Yes, live large but lose the encumbrances. Freedom is around the corner.

Now the conundrum becomes serious when it comes to something material which we love. Like clothing.

I suppose that you, NJS, never have any need for your London suits now. What to do with these?

I ask myself that question when confronted by cartons of clothing I have not opened in years....

I think that the answer lies in just being sure that you know what you actually need and what you want and where to get it all, should the occasion arise - and whether you currently possess it or not: knowing how the things should be. Knowledge is power. Possibly, it is the only real power. So you get to the point where you need to possess nothing material beyond your immediate requirements. Let the yearnings go.

It is true that you want actually to 'possess' material things up to the age of about 45 years. After that, all you need to possess is the knowledge, and the means to possess and use things, as the occasion demands. I have no need of city suits; slip-stitched ties and bespoke, black oxfords everyday (in fact, any day). The need has gone.

I let it go, in return for living in a place as close to paradise as this earth allows. Now, I just I slip on a pair of shorts, a short-sleeved shirt, a pair of sandals and I'm OK for the day. But if, say, my daughter got married and wanted me to play a part in it all, I am sure that I could make her reasonably proud of me; giving her away; letting her go to find her own version of happiness for her age: maybe, I'd bloody well abandon my shorts for a day and commission a real frock coat; pull out of storage a damned fine silk hat (1903) and put a gardenia in my buttonhole.

But I'd make bloody sure that she were covered in orange blossom and bedecked with emeralds, to match her eyes, and diamonds to set them off. This is because: now, I have become merely a background to the propagation of our shared genes! All I really want for my immediate needs are: home-grown guinea-fowl and duck and vegetables and fruit; the scent of lemon blossom and tobacco plant blasted up to me by the evening dew; a glass of palatable wine; a nice smoke; a read of a friend - old or new, and to have the time to stare at the stars and wonder a little about it all.

I don't fool myself that I shall find any new (or any), answers but I think that I have earned my time to wonder, without worrying over my everyday state of dress and appearance.

Maybe, I have given the world 'the finger'. Let the accusation stand. My main advice would be to: let no one 'befriend' you, unless you are sure of their motives and their end.

Does that make sense?

- But, from the Sleepy Hollow - I still think that: breast pocket handkerchiefs in city and formal coats and brown shoes with blue suits are all an appalling abortion of good taste - but not so great an abortion as contrived measly 'pocket squares'! They really point the way to hell in a hand-barrow/basket! You can't even blow your nose in them. What's a snuufer to do? Eh? Eh?
NJS

[All over the world]

"Versatility lies in elegant casualty"

If you are under dressed yet still well dressed you can ago anywhere. And I mean anywhere. If you get a call while at the beach wearing an oxford shirt, some swimming trunks and brown loafers from a friend who wants you to come over to his five star hotel for dinner it's not a problem, just grab some linen trousers or jeans and go like that. Elegance is making the best with what you have, it's usually spontaneous and sometimes means nothing more than swapping one thing for another or adding/removing something from your outfit. I do it all the time and the only ones who stare at me are the proles and the nouveaux-riches whom seem unaware that once upon a time the most formally dressed people were servants while their masters were often dressed quite casually because their status allowed them to and it was much more comfortable of course! So as long as it isn't an event with a formal dress code one can do as one pleases as long as things remain tasteful.

That's all I've got.

[NJS]

"Versatility lies in elegant casualty"

If you are under dressed yet still well dressed you can ago anywhere. And I mean anywhere. If you get a call while at the beach wearing an oxford shirt, some swimming trunks and brown loafers from a friend who wants you to come over to his five star hotel for dinner it's not a problem, just grab some linen trousers or jeans and go like that. Elegance is making the best with what you have, it's usually spontaneous and sometimes means nothing more than swapping one thing for another or adding/removi
ng something from your outfit. I do it all the time and the only ones who stare at me are the proles and the nouveaux-riches whom seem unaware that once upon a time the most formally dressed people were servants while their masters were often dressed quite casually because their status allowed them to and it was much more comfortable of course! So as long as it isn't an event with a formal dress code one can do as one pleases as long as things remain tasteful.

That's all I've got.

Is this quote from the script of the telly programme 'ER'?
NJS

[All over the world]

Is this quote from the script of the telly programme 'ER'?
NJS

Huh? No?

[Rowly]

No one answered my question about weatherproofing though, can it damage the shoe in the long run?

My advice is don't wear your shoes in the weather....there's far too much weather around these days, not like the old days, but life goes on!

[All over the world]

No one answered my question about weatherproofing though, can it damage the shoe in the long run?

My advice is don't wear your shoes in the weather....there's far too much weather around these days, not like the old days, but life goes on!

Rubber boots then!

I live in Paris!

[NJS]

Dubbin is the stuff for country shoes; apart from that: wax.
NJS

[arkirshner]

No one answered my question about weatherproofing though, can it damage the shoe in the long run?

And uppercase, why is this a silly question?

It is not a silly question. UNLESS YOU ARE A TROLL in which case I am a fool for answering

At the risk of offending my betters, I think your question has set off a contagious giddiness occasioned by your inadvertently posing your question on the wrong website. There are three pre-eminent websites, with participants from around the world, devoted to men's clothing.


Styleforum has the most participation, but also has the most stupidity. Many of the threads are little more than; "I like this." " Really, I like that." all to often degenerating into "If you wear that,you are a -----". Half the site is devoted to streetwear and denim. Perhaps I overstate, as some of the ongoing threads are useful and the archives contain a lot of gems. Of the three it must be considered the lowbrow site.

AskAndyAboutClothes is the middlebrow site. There are a number of knowledgeable men who post, and while it was not always the case, the no nothings of the world do not interrupt threads. While threads sometimes discuss topics like the proper cut of a peacoat, what accessories go with a stroller, and the like, quite a few threads are questions from non enthusiasts who want advise or opinions about what to wear for their wedding, or job interview etc. Shoes are a common topic and questions on how to care for shoes are asked quite often, and answered courteously.

London Lounge is the highbrow site. While the other two are commercial sites on which the proprietors sell advertising, this site exists solely through the generosity of Michael Alden. While not on the same scale , Mr. Alden's gift is in the spirit of the wealthy Greek aristocrats of ancient times who would donate public buildings, (or in times of crisis a warship or two), to the Poulos. London Lounge is by far not only the most sophisticated as to content, but also the most civil in language.

While years ago I used to post on Styleforum I no longer do as I do not see the point. I post regularly on Ask Andy as my knowledge level is high enough for my posts to be of value to those interested in the subject of that thread. I have been a member of this site for some years now. Almost all my participation here is as a reader. Collectively, the posts at this site comprise one of the best resources on traditional Anglo-American men's clothing extant. I have posted here rarely, a few times to ask a question that only the members here can answer, and only a few times to make a comment, as the level of discussion here is at a level such that I usually have nothing new to add.

Your question certainly deserves a serious response, and although there are men here who know far more about shoes than I, it is a question I can answer.

Welt stitched shoes, because stitching goes through the sole, are not, nor can they be made waterproof. This should not matter if they are worn in a normal urban environment, your feet will stay dry. On the other hand they are not designed for long cross country walks through waterlogged fields. For this you need rubber boots, or a veldtschoe, rare shoe type of different construction designed for field use. Tricker's and Cheaney's country collections have a few styles. Waterproofing formulations tend to darken the leather, do little if anything to actually waterproof the shoe, and, unless you are walking long distances in downpours, promise something for which there is no need.

The best way to care for shoes is not to abuse them. Just like a baseball starting pitcher, shoes should be rested between starts, at least one, preferably two or more days. This allows the leather time to recover from being stretched by walking as well as to air out. After wearing, dirt should be brushed off and shoe trees should be used when the shoes are not worn. Resting the shoes requires wearing several pairs in rotation. The more shoes are rested , the more miles you will get before they need to be re-crafted.

Generally speaking, there are two types of polish and two leather surfaces. Leather, good shoes are of calf skin, naturally has pores, which in their natural state causes an irregularity in the surface of the shoe. On the other hand, grain corrected leather is leather which has undergone a process, somewhat like sanding, that smooths the surface. Because its surface has been smoothed, grain corrected leather reflects more light , and thus has a higher degree of shine. Your military boots were no doubt grain corrected. Most well dressed men prefer the natural, relatively matte, look of non-grain corrected leather; these shoes will not take a high gloss shine.

There are shoe cremes and waxes. The wax will build up on the surface of the shoe, giving better protection against scuffs. It will give a glossier shine. On the other hand, it will seal the leather and there are those who believe this seal will cause the leather to tend to dry out. Cremes on the other hand soften and work into the leather. They give a relatively matte shine. While they do not seal the leather they do not give as great protection against scuffs.

Different men have different protocols for polishing their shoes. On this subject reasonable men can differ. There probably is not that much difference in the long term results.

Regards,

Alan

[All over the world]

Thank you Alan, I know many things but having been raised mainly by women polishing shoes is not something I was taught.

I agree in regards to AAAC and SF, in a way they are very much like gentlemen's clubs in that these forums attract different kinds of people. People on SF are brand obsessed and don't seem to know anything about etiquette or quality, mostly middle class. AAAC seems to be aimed towards the middle class (and some nouveaux-riches). I certainly feel that the London Lounge is the best clothing forum for men out there.

[uppercase]

U-C: If you are going to live abroad, I strongly recommend that you consider the things to take and the things to off-load. We have still got a mountain of stuff stored in England and really wish that we had got rid of most of it. If you make the leap, you will soon realize that most possessions are just an encumbrance on - essentially freedom of movement: true impedimenta! Moving it all around (and paying for it), insuring it, housing it, securing it, worrying about it. Better by far to get rid of it!

Moreover, lingering memories of lugging and hauling and humping ruddy great, mammoth-like suitcases (stuffed to breaking point with useless rubbish) from the nervy scrummage surrounding airport carousels and pushing them around on groaning trolleys, with defective wheels, mean that I would never, ever, ever (I don't care what she says), ever again travel on an airplane with more than: a down pillow, a good book, a notepad and pencils, a box of sweets, a snuff box, a few large handkerchiefs, a hipflask, eau de cologne (each when permissible), a toothbrush, a razor, a comb and the smallest possible cabin bag to put it all in. There is some great merit, on short trips, in cutting it all down to: toothbrush, razor and comb. Then you just watch the lemmings running off down the rat-run towards the carousel. You smile a little smile - and get the hell outa there.
NJS

I couldn't agree with you more!

There's a particular joy in traveling light. And living lightly as well. I've been through my schlepping days and they are over for good.

Like you, I also take no more than one small carry on bag on trips. What doesn't fit, doesn't go.

When moving overseas, junk your possessions I say. Start over fresh. Yes, live large but lose the encumbrances. Freedom is around the corner.

Now the conundrum becomes serious when it comes to something material which we love. Like clothing.

I suppose that you, NJS, never have any need for your London suits now. What to do with these?

I ask myself that question when confronted by cartons of clothing I have not opened in years....

I think that the answer lies in just being sure that you know what you actually need and what you want and where to get it all, should the occasion arise - and whether you currently possess it or not: knowing how the things should be. Knowledge is power. Possibly, it is the only real power. So you get to the point where you need to possess nothing material beyond your immediate requirements. Let the yearnings go.

It is true that you want actually to 'possess' material things up to the age of about 45 years. After that, all you need to possess is the knowledge, and the means to possess and use things, as the occasion demands. I have no need of city suits; slip-stitched ties and bespoke, black oxfords everyday (in fact, any day). The need has gone.

I let it go, in return for living in a place as close to paradise as this earth allows. Now, I just I slip on a pair of shorts, a short-sleeved shirt, a pair of sandals and I'm OK for the day. But if, say, my daughter got married and wanted me to play a part in it all, I am sure that I could make her reasonably proud of me; giving her away; letting her go to find her own version of happiness for her age: maybe, I'd bloody well abandon my shorts for a day and commission a real frock coat; pull out of storage a damned fine silk hat (1903) and put a gardenia in my buttonhole.

But I'd make bloody sure that she were covered in orange blossom and bedecked with emeralds, to match her eyes, and diamonds to set them off. This is because: now, I have become merely a background to the propagation of our shared genes! All I really want for my immediate needs are: home-grown guinea-fowl and duck and vegetables and fruit; the scent of lemon blossom and tobacco plant blasted up to me by the evening dew; a glass of palatable wine; a nice smoke; a read of a friend - old or new, and to have the time to stare at the stars and wonder a little about it all.

I don't fool myself that I shall find any new (or any), answers but I think that I have earned my time to wonder, without worrying over my everyday state of dress and appearance.

Maybe, I have given the world 'the finger'. Let the accusation stand. My main advice would be to: let no one 'befriend' you, unless you are sure of their motives and their end.

Does that make sense?

- But, from the Sleepy Hollow - I still think that: breast pocket handkerchiefs in city and formal coats and brown shoes with blue suits are all an appalling abortion of good taste - but not so great an abortion as contrived measly 'pocket squares'! They really point the way to hell in a hand-barrow/basket! You can't even blow your nose in them. What's a snuufer to do? Eh? Eh?
NJS

Yes, this all makes great good sense to me.

You let it all go to live as close to paradise as this earth allows.

It makes such good sense, that so many talk about it everyday, yet you have actually done it!

That's pretty impressive if you ask me. What a grand adventure!

Kudos.

[NJS]

Thanks, uppercase. Yes it is an adventure. We are probably about to move over to the lagoon, where there is a house with a neglected garden and woods, which we want to 'bring back'; they are not quite the 'Lost Gardens of Heligan' but potentially not far off the salvaged result.
NJS

[Berwick]

To the OP, as mentioned, there is good information on SF and AAAC.

I suggest applying conditioner before first wearing - e.g. Chelsea leather food. Then either shoe cream after every few wears, or wax with a damp cloth if you want more of a shine. If you live in a cold place you should warm the wax/shoe with a hair dryer wlist applying. Keep in trees for a few days after each wear. Apply more conditioner when the shoe looks like it might need some - maybe once a year.

I see no point in waterproofing per se, but I do use liquid nickwax on my walking boots.

[Charlie]

Some good advice being dispensed. I suggest in addition to the above that if your wearing leather soled shoes, firstly stuff these with newspaper to help draw out internal moisture which has made it through the sole and simultaneously dry brush off any external debris. Next stick in the shoe trees and allow to dry naturally.

I suggest using a good quality wax polish (due to the lower silicon content) to help waterproof the upper. Hope that helps.