Italian Bespoke Shirtmakers

[mathew]

You should be able to find a good custom shirtmaker most anywhere you go in Italy.
Here are a few:

Milan:
Santolmo
Siniscalchi
Sartoria Ypsilon

Genoa:
Finollo

Florence:
Bugelli

Rome:
Battistoni
Micocci
Nesci
Pacinelli
Sabatini
Siviglia

Naples:
Matuozzo
Merolla e de l'Ero

Not included are artisans such as Rubinacci LH who, while they may make fine custom shirts, are primarily focused on something else.

[Guest]

I have some doubts on Santolmo and Sartoria Ypsilon.

Siniscalchi is like Finollo. Top rate but top prices.

As we already said, there are hidden treasures in every one of this cities.

[mathew]

I've never seen Santolmo - hopefully this time, though.
Sartoria Ypsilon is, as the name indicates, first and foremost a tailor shop. I visited when I was in Milan last year. The less expensive shirts are largely machine sewn and, I think, the sewing for these shirts may be done outside the shop. However, I saw one shirt which I was amazed by. That shirt is pictured here:

http://sartoriaypsilon.com/newpage3.html

The shirt is literally 100% sewn by hand - not a single machine stitch. It also took three days to make and cost Euro 1000. A clever detail on this shirt was that it's actually a two-button collar, but the second button is not above the first button as is the case for most two-button collars. The second button is to the side of the first button and hidden by the collar leaf.

Giona, can you tell us any details about Siniscalchi and Finollo - minimum initial order, general price range, unique characteristics of the shirts?

[Guest]

Siniscalschi and Finollo are in the range of 400-500€ per shirt with an order of 10 I believe. I do not have other news since I'm not ordering from them; I know though that Finollo reverted their production to machine-made button holes, so approaching Kabbaz quality.

I don't think I need a completely hand-stitched shirt; I notice, though, buttonhole is not the most beatiful I have seen, and for 1000€ ... Same about buttons quality, at least by picture. I hope it is bespoke, since I cannot read anything of that page. It seems their customer base is not Italian.

Santelmo I never heard of, and it is strange since I have been living in this city for 36 years now.

[mathew]

Finollo and Siniscalchi require a minimum initial order of 10 shirts at Euro 400-500 per shirt? That's the heftiest minimum I've ever heard of! How much are Finollo's readymade shirts?

Santolmo
Via Olmetto, 8/ a
20123 Milano

[mathew]

Re: the pictures on the web page I linked above: the darker blue shirt at the bottom of the page is not one of the 100% handsewn shirts. The 100% handsewn shirt's buttonholes were much nicer.

[mathew]

I just called Finollo. I was told that the initial minimum is 3 shirts @ Euro 570/shirt -whether Carlo Riva or Acorn. Buttonholes, though their preference is to do them by machine, will be done by hand if requested. They said that they can meet clients in Milan.

I also called Merolla e de l'Ero, Anna Matuozzo, Battistoni, Mimmo Siviglia and Micocci about their bespoke shirts. I asked all what they charge for Carlo Riva since shirts made from Carlo Riva fabric tend to be among the most expensive.

Mz. de l'Ero told me that there is no initial minimum and that a shirt made from Carlo Riva fabric is Euro 320.

Mrs. Matuozza also told me that there is no initial minimum and that a shirt made from Carlo Riva fabric is Euro 300-350.

At Battistoni the first man told me that the initial minimum is 3 shirts, and when he put me on hold to ask another man how much a shirt from Carlo Riva fabric costs, the other man said that the initial minimum is 4 shirts. They told me that Carlo Riva is Euro 270, TESTA Atelier Romentino 300.

Mr. Siviglia said that the initial minimum is 5 shirts @ Euro 190 for Carlo Riva.

Mr. Micocci said that there is no minimum and that he charges Euro 180 for Carlo Riva.

[mathew]

Siniscalchi has no minimum and charges Euro 350 for Carlo Riva.

[andreyb]

Gentlemen,

Do you know something of "Old Bond Street"?

I read about them in one of Flusser's books, and paid them a visit when was in Rome.

This is a tiny shop (just two rooms crammed with shirtings) on Via Gregoriana (very close to Spanish Steps; still, salesmen from shops on Piazza Di Spagna know nothing on "OBS"). It is run by a very nice Italian couple, who speak absolutely no English.

As I said, the place is crammed with shirting material. Also, I noticed several "rolls" of cut shirt fabric, prepared and ready for sewing. So, it is my guess (and Flusser confirms that) that they are bespoke shirtmakers (and probably shirting fabric merchants, too).

Apart from shirts, there are some ties (very, very small selection -- probably just three or five varieties) and socks. I ended up purchasing some socks -- patterns on them are truly unique and "one of a kind". The downside is that these socks have probably the strictest caring instructions I've ever seen: "WASH HAND USING A PURE SOAP IN LUKEWARM WATER. RINSE WELL. DO NOT DRY NEAR HEAT SOURCES". Oh yes, and these socks are sized.

This is a lovely little shop... One of the cherished memories of my visit to Italy... Gents, I would be grateful if you share some information on them.

Andrey

[mathew]

Finollo shirts were $315 in 2001, now 570 Euro...yikes!

[Guest]

Can anyone comment further on Siviglia and Micocci? With Bugelli, their prices seem more in the realm of reality than the others. Oddly, Battistoni is also in this club, but they need very little comment!

[manton]

The Siviglia shirts I saw were decently made, 100% by machine. I did not see them on clients so I can't comment on the fit, only the make. I did notice that there appeared to be no attempt to match stripes, which at that price point ($400 in New York) I thought was disappointing. Mmathew reports that they are less than 200 euros in Rome, however.

[mathew]

I've heard that Micocci is not the most reliable artisan.

[uppercase]

These bespoke prices mentioned are pretty outrageous! If accurate , they exceed Jermyn St., I believe.

Is it really possible that the bespoke Italian makers (Savigilia) don't match stripes?! That would be a sin, in that price range.

Are these prices driven by the material quality?; in other words, are the Rivas and Bonfantis, the equivalent of the super 220s wool, costing an arm and a leg?

What would be a good, middle of the road thread count for a fabric - 120s or 140s?

[manton]

Is it really possible that the bespoke Italian makers (Savigilia) don't match stripes?! That would be a sin, in that price range.

I don't know if never matches stripes. I saw some sample shirts that were not matched. I thought "Gee, if the guy doesn't match stripes on samples -- which are basically advertisements for his business -- why would he do it on shirts for customers?"

What would be a good, middle of the road thread count for a fabric - 120s or 140s?

I have some great shirts from 100s and 120s 2x2. 140s and up I consider a luxury. I will buy it if I can get a deal, or if I see a pattern I must have.