The END is near ...

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

alden
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Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:42 am

It's all caused by something called Greed.
NJS, I absolutely agree with you here. The recent acquisitions of three hallowed English businesses (H. Lesser, Drake's and Budd), that make many nervous, come in the wake of countless others that have seen the ruin of many great names in the apparel and associated industries. The losses of Reid & Taylor, Hunter's of Brora, and Moorbrook still sting those who remember great fabrics.

In part it is the consumer's fault. The indiscriminate hunger to consume without education or sensibility, allows the takeover artists to deliver a facsimile of the original products. And to top it off, they sometimes sell the fakes for prices higher than the original, crystals for diamonds, an Elmyr de Hory for a Picasso.

G for Greed, a sequel?

Let's hope the latest acquisitions go smoothly and the culture and products endure.

It should be said that there are a few stories of acquisitions that are having a very positive effect in "preserving" our culture and products. The example of Fox Brothers, an LL partner and producer of fine "West of England" flannels is an excellent example.

Cheers

Michael
davidhuh
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Fri Aug 12, 2011 1:38 pm

alden wrote: It should be said that there are a few stories of acquisitions that are having a very positive effect in "preserving" our culture and products. The example of Fox Brothers, an LL partner and producer of fine "West of England" flannels is an excellent example.

Cheers

Michael
Dear all,

I had found this thread about the Budd acquisition with some delay. I did not join the concerned voices, because I knew the new owners were the same as the ones who had saved Huntsman some years back (Huntsman is not my tailor, not yet). Also, in Budd's shop at Piccadilly arcade, I had not observed any change - I am there every two months.

However, I started writing to this thread when I had concrete evidence that something was not ok with their heritage cloth. They opened this nice web site, finally; make a story about their Budd stripes, feature the herringbone, while the same product is no longer available. This is simply foolish. So I wrote to them, and wrote to the LL so others could join me telling them. Call it the "responsible, interested customers duty". :D

Regarding Drake, I am not alarmed at this point. Drake has been sold a year ago to Armoury. I don't believe somebody like Michael Drake took this decision lightly and out of greed. He stayed with the team for one more year for a smooth take over. Simon Crompton wrote it up nicely two days ago: http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2011/08 ... drake.html.

In the mean time, Drake has opened a wonderland store on Clifford Street - something many of us have been waiting for. The new owners are young men who seem to be passionate about their business. As difficult it is to "replace" somebody like Michael Drake, this is great news and should be seen as an opportunity for Drake's long term survival. And if we have something to be alarmed about, based on evidence, we can always do it here on the LL.

Kind regards,
david
NJS

Sat Aug 13, 2011 2:14 pm

I referred to the greed of the big commercial outfits not at all to the small businesses when selling - there is nothing wrong with people realizing their assets and they are not responsible for what happens after they sell.
NJS
Cooked
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Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:33 pm

I walked past Budd yesterday and noted it has reopened. Was in a bit of a hurry so didn't go in, but glimpsed through the window the refurbishment does not seem to have been too radical - some new woodwork and generally a bit lighter.

Has anyone been in?
NJS

Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:41 pm

Cooked wrote:I walked past Budd yesterday and noted it has reopened. Was in a bit of a hurry so didn't go in, but glimpsed through the window the refurbishment does not seem to have been too radical - some new woodwork and generally a bit lighter.

Has anyone been in?
People have to mess with things, don't they: it's a kind of compulsion. "If it ain't bust, don't fix it" always seems a sensible maxim to me.
NJS
davidhuh
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Wed Sep 14, 2011 12:09 am

NJS wrote:
Cooked wrote:I walked past Budd yesterday and noted it has reopened. Was in a bit of a hurry so didn't go in, but glimpsed through the window the refurbishment does not seem to have been too radical - some new woodwork and generally a bit lighter.

Has anyone been in?
People have to mess with things, don't they: it's a kind of compulsion. "If it ain't bust, don't fix it" always seems a sensible maxim to me.
NJS
Gentlemen,

I happened to pick up some shirts ordered in June this Monday September 12. It is not what I would call the most respectful renovation job; however, not a disaster either.
There is some much needed new paint, and also, to my astonishment, new shelves and storage furniture. All the charming old disorder: gone. That's a bit sad. The old shop had this romantic disorder that made me become Monsieur Taupe each time I was there. You see more shirt cloth exposed, but somehow, the place has lost a lot of charm.
On the good side, Mr. Butcher and Mr. Rowley remain the same. Also good news, at least for me: Mr. Butcher presented me the remains of their Budd stripes fabric, and I took advantage of the occasion. They might actually reproduce it, if there is demand (the cloth is made by Alumo). So if we turn up in masses, there might be remedy.

cheers, david
st.tully
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Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:59 pm

Pictures of refurbished Budd now online. What do you think?

http://www.buddshirts.co.uk/shop-gallery/
Cufflink79
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Wed Oct 19, 2011 3:44 pm

st.tully wrote:Pictures of refurbished Budd now online. What do you think?

http://www.buddshirts.co.uk/shop-gallery/


I haven't had the chance to visit London yet, so I can't compare it to how it use to look, but in my opinion I really like it.

It has a fresh look to it but still has the old world haberdashery feeling to it.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
andreyb
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Wed Oct 19, 2011 4:58 pm

Where is the old armchair with dragons?! Gone and replaced with two foldable ones???

:evil:

Andrey
Rowly
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Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:56 pm

to my astonishment, new shelves and storage furniture. All the charming old disorder: gone. That's a bit sad. The old shop had this romantic disorder that made me become Monsieur Taupe each time I was there. You see more shirt cloth exposed, but somehow, the place has lost a lot of charm.
My reaction exactly..if the product is the same as always..you might as well buy online...because the charming experience is gone and the shop may as well be a corner in a dept.store.
NJS

Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:16 pm

I fear that all this is sadly predictable. Those who redeveloped the site of the old Cavendish Hotel in Jermyn Street at least acquired the enormous, evocative, life-portrait of Rosa Lewis, and hung it on the stairs, above the charming old Sub Rosa Bar (one of the cosiest and most secret, little bars in London; hung with old menus and whimsical pictures). Recent owners sold the portrait off and, instead installed an array of 'modern art', and a ghastly, modern rendering of Rosa, in the 'Rosa Suite', on the top floor; then they took the partition and doors away from the bar and made it into part of the bloody foyer: there are morons everywhere, these days. Still, she has her plaque...
NJS
st.tully
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Wed Oct 19, 2011 11:06 pm

Uuuugh.....

This saddens me so much. (But it is certainly not as bad as allowing women into the club or the smoking ban). I always enjoyed ducking into Budd on my infrequent trips to London. It was familiar, inviting, congenial, and well worn - much like my one and only pair of Lobb bespoke - now in their 22nd year of life.

I left boarding school 25 years ago and have never returned for a reunion - because I never wanted to see the change. I loved my time at school and want to remember everything as it was. I kinda feel the same way about Budd, but whereas I can live without Latin class, I can't live without a few more shirts. I suppose I will pop into Budd next month and take the "change" in stride. At least they haven't changed the RTW stock pattern which is a perfect fit for me :)

Cheers, st.tully
Rowly
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Wed Oct 19, 2011 11:37 pm

RTW stock pattern which is a perfect fit for me
+1
NJS

Thu Oct 20, 2011 1:13 pm

andreyb wrote:Where is the old armchair with dragons?! Gone and replaced with two foldable ones???

:evil:

Andrey
Probably sold at auction. Just a small bit of asset-stripping.This is also possibly like the old church lecterns, carved in the shape of eagles and so on: they are being wheeled around the corner and plain mucic stands put in their place - because they frighten the young (smacking, as they do of hellfire and damnation; avenging and fallen angels; the wrath of God) and put the young off going to church... blah, blah, blah. Actually, what puts the young off going to church is the fact that there is no message from the clergy there - and the young could probably do with having some fear of the wrath of God.

Another example of an attempt at widening the market base of a business was at the casino at 50 St James's Street. Situated in the building originally purpose-built for Thomas Crockford in 1828, it is a splendid place and used to have enormous crystal chandaliers, quite in keeping with the overall splendour. They were replaced with twisted cloth lampshades and I was told that the reason was because it was felt that the crystal chandaliers 'intimidated' youngsters (presumably Chavs and WAGs), with lots of money to lose. Sadly, it went bust! - Broken by a football manager with a bottomless pocket.

I am sure that dumbing-down, such as lightening the wood in Budd to make it look cheaper and younger and more like C&A or Marks & Sparks, is all done in the hope that the businesses will 'broaden the client base' to make more money for the giant corporations that are sucking the lifeblood from commercial life, and incorporate all the managerial mumbo-jumbo and jargon of this sorry and silly age.
NJS
davidhuh
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Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:49 pm

Rowly wrote: My reaction exactly..if the product is the same as always..you might as well buy online...because the charming experience is gone and the shop may as well be a corner in a dept.store.
Gentlemen,

I just collected my Budd stripe shirt commission two days ago - 6 great shirts :D . I still have to get used to this renovated shop... and my impression is that the same is true for the staff.

While this is very sad, it will not turn me away from Budd to an online shop or a department store. I do not go there for the shop decoration (although I loved it), but for the shirts cut by Mr. Butcher and also to have a chat with Mr. Rowley.

When I went there for the first time two years ago, the prospects for Budd were rather depressing, at least this was clearly the feeling I got. I found Mr. Butcher in sadness about the future of his trade, complaining about not having an apprentice etc. This bad spirit is gone. There is even a young new sales person there, and they plan to hire that apprentice.

Lastly, I cannot imagine anybody better to take over Budd than the present owners, who have also saved Huntsman from misery.

cheers, David
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