Shirtjacket blindfold test: East vs. West

[tteplitzmd]

Two different makers, same instructions, different outcomes:

Huddersfield worsted faux tweed:








Scottish tweed:






Poor pattern matching, sloppy stitching, no hanging loops as asked, messy interior seam finishing, on the Huddersfield version.
Excellent pattern matching, neat stitching, piped interior seams, and hanging loops (inside and under collar) on the Scottish tweed.

Both makers rejected my request for Bemberg lined cuffs and neckband.

[Screaminmarlon]

Love the Breguet Marine!
Is the first one from west?
In the end, it almost seems the cloth was responsible for the outcome

[tteplitzmd]

The Breguet Marine is indeed terrific. Will be switching it over to "dress" watch mode next month by putting on the crocodile band.

The first one is western. The makers, especially shirtmakers, make a big deal out of having to switch their needles for heavier cloth. As best I understand it, the lighter weight Huddersfield worsted should have been easier to sew. Yet, the sewing on close inspection is sloppy and uneven. My photos don't show it that well.

[Concordia]

#2 from Chan?

[Screaminmarlon]

The Breguet Marine is indeed terrific. Will be switching it over to "dress" watch mode next month by putting on the crocodile band.

Nice touch! Either way, it's a beauty.

As for the stitching, maybe the eastern patient mind played a role. Which is the weight of the tweed?

[tteplitzmd]

The Scottish tweed is about 22 ounces.

It was made by a lady's tailor in Hong Kong (W.W. Chan's lady's tailor Danny Chen who travels with their men's tailor Patrick Chu on the U.S. trips). Because these garments don't have a canvas and are largely machine sewn Patrick recommended Danny. Danny has made tailored clothing for my wife for years and is superb. Danny explained that in olden days this kind of task was relegated to kimono makers (more than a shirt but less than a tailored fully canvased garment). I would say the HK version is infinitely better than the very high priced SR version, which took 4 times as long to make, to boot.

[Concordia]

Looks very nice. Now that I seem to have renewed my relationship with Chan I might have to branch out that direction.

[uppercase]

Who made the first lousy one?

Full, fair disclosure on LL, for better or worse....

[Slewfoot]

Great to hear Chan can make such a nice garment in that style. I've always had very positive experiences with them when I've visited Hong Kong. They are well worth a look if one is considering.

[Rowly]

The faux tweed has very rich muted tones and is a lovely colour. I don't recognise it..can you devulge its identity? Your design is very nice and the button choice is excellent. Health to wear!

[tteplitzmd]

This goes back a few years, I only recall the cloth had "Made in Huddersfield" on the selvage. It is heavier and with a softer finish than say, Glorious Twelfth.

I did some of my postgraduate medical training in Hollywood, but no one ever gave me a studio publicity photo to autograph and give to the London shirtmaker who made the faux tweed shirtjacket. Needless to say you won't find my photo on his shop walls next to Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant, Clint Eastwood, or Ralph Fiennes. Uppercase, doesn't the U.K. have those screwy liable laws?

[Badden]

Thank you for posting.

Can you please share the source of the 22oz. tweed (2nd pic)?

[tteplitzmd]

Thank you for posting.

Can you please share the source of the 22oz. tweed (2nd pic)?

Tailor's cloth. It may be Carron estate tweed.

[uppercase]

I did some of my postgraduate medical training in Hollywood, but no one ever gave me a studio publicity photo to autograph and give to the London shirtmaker who made the faux tweed shirtjacket. Needless to say you won't find my photo on his shop walls next to Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant, Clint Eastwood, or Ralph Fiennes. Uppercase, doesn't the U.K. have those screwy liable laws?

This hint requires some sartorial sleuthing. I will get back on this.

But kudos to WW Chan, bespoke heroes from the rising East, obvious favourites of yours.

[Badden]

Thank you for posting.

Can you please share the source of the 22oz. tweed (2nd pic)?

Tailor's cloth. It may be Carron estate tweed.

Thanks - looks fantastic. I'll have to track it down.