andreyb wrote:Monsieur Xu, Gruto, my pleasure. A few more pics are
there.
Wow, I had no idea that we had comrades in Russia! Have you seen any gentlemen dressing elegantly with fur, either scarves or full-on coats and coat linings? There are many pre-war photos of such, but these men seem to have died out, as with so many other things related to style. I am wondering whether to bring a mink or chinchilla scarf for my next sub-zero trip, if at all...
I have access to inexpensive and high-quality fur, the same stuff which many of the big-name guys in Europe source, but have not decided on whether a mink-lapelled greatcoat is
comme il faut in London or Paris or not. (No doubt about Moscow or Beijing of course!)
Well, that's a beauty of bespoke (or MTM, if you will) -- personal preferences and quirks.
Bel's tailor told me that these two colours (green-grey and navy blue) are two original ones.
Of course, mine are simply personal preferences. I've always had a predilection for light and cheerful colours, and I think the interesting detailing of the Teba reveals itself better in a lighter shade.
Bel is not inexpensive shop, that is for sure.
However, I believe that teba is worth the expense and priced just about right. It is machine-sewn, but very, very well and precisely. Hand finishing is top notch.
No doubt, the buttonhole you've shown looks immaculate.
Also, I believe they offer genuine bespoke, not MTM. They told me that a personal pattern is created for each customer; moreover, I had a "real" fitting (with quite a few modifications being noticed and marked on a half-finished garment).
Yes from your photos it seems you had the species of basted fitting whereupon the tailor rips one of the sleeves off. I wonder then why they term it MTM - perhaps one of those "lost in translation" bespoke terms, eg su misura, sur mesure.
The only thing Bel's "boss" (as other employees called him
) told me is that this fabric is made in Italy, and is double sided -- one side navy, another grey in my case.
Now that sounds even more interesting. I know a tailor whose specialty is a reversible uncanvassed sportcoat, with no buttons, that can be worn either side. This fabric would be most perfect for such a garment. I suppose the fabric is a special commission?
I don't know much about fabric, but is a fully natural jersey cloth possible, with no addition of sp*ndex or lyc*a? (pardon the obscenities!)
Yes. Sorry (and sorry Manself
), but they are nothing special in my opinion. The asking price is indeed special, though... take a seat... 108 euros.
[/quote]
Well at least the price has not gone up in the two years since I enquired. They also will not do sea island boxers for some inexplicable reason. I've not been impressed by the RTW offerings from Charvet or the Jermyn St chaps either.
My own boxer design will have suit sized MOP buttons, a non-elastic, sized waistband, and hand-rolled hems. And a one-panelled back of course, a trait which I also adopted for my W.Bill linen swimming shorts! (works swimmingly by the way, pardon the pun)