Teba Jacket

[andreyb]

Monsieur Xu, now I finally able to answer your questions!

Is the Teba traditionally as long as a conventional jacket, or is it more similar to that of a square hem shirt?

See the picture above. Similar to a conventional jacket.

Also, does it have side vents or side slits?

No vents, no slits.

Andrey

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Monsieur Xu, now I finally able to answer your questions!

Is the Teba traditionally as long as a conventional jacket, or is it more similar to that of a square hem shirt?

See the picture above. Similar to a conventional jacket.

Also, does it have side vents or side slits?

No vents, no slits.

Andrey

Ha, Dear Andrey,

You have great timing indeed. I had been planning to visit Bel and Barcelona this month, but decided to go elsewhere instead. The temptation to commission a Teba with them or a Teba adaptation with my tailor has been strong since my question last year.

The photos and feedback you have posted are invaluable, being as they are the only glimpses into Bel available online, apart from sleevehead's blog. In fact I was just caressing the Bel swatches this morning. Personally I would have gone for a lighter colour, maybe the classic green-grey or the oatmeal.

I had considered commissioning my tailor to make up a Teba-inspired jacket, with jacket cuffs and vents. Personally I feel the squared bottoms would look better on a jacket shorter than the conventional length, as it can look a tad boxy given the lack of darts. Also, I felt the asking price was a little high considering the Teba is MTM, and mostly machine-made, with little design input possible.

I'm curious as to where Bel sources the jersey fabric from - from the swatch, the fabric doesn't seem all that stretchy, but nonetheless the jersey could have interesting applications for elegant casual dress.

By the way, did you have a look at their fabled boxer shorts? I am now in the midst of designing my third iteration of bespoke boxers.

Seeing your new acquisition, makes me reconsider having one made up in a sky blue W.Bill linen, but totally unlined, with cream buffalo horn buttons... Probably one of the few jackets than can be worn in 40 degree heat and 90% humidity!

[Gruto]

Andrey, very interesting, thank you. Now we also have a proof that soft tailoring and drape cut are in fact a Spanish invention

[andreyb]

Monsieur Xu, Gruto, my pleasure. A few more pics are there.

Personally I would have gone for a lighter colour, maybe the classic green-grey or the oatmeal.

Well, that's a beauty of bespoke (or MTM, if you will) -- personal preferences and quirks.

Bel's tailor told me that these two colours (green-grey and navy blue) are two original ones.

Also, I felt the asking price was a little high considering the Teba is MTM, and mostly machine-made, with little design input possible.

Bel is not inexpensive shop, that is for sure.

However, I believe that teba is worth the expense and priced just about right. It is machine-sewn, but very, very well and precisely. Hand finishing is top notch.

Also, I believe they offer genuine bespoke, not MTM. They told me that a personal pattern is created for each customer; moreover, I had a "real" fitting (with quite a few modifications being noticed and marked on a half-finished garment).

I'm curious as to where Bel sources the jersey fabric from - from the swatch, the fabric doesn't seem all that stretchy, but nonetheless the jersey could have interesting applications for elegant casual dress.

The only thing Bel's "boss" (as other employees called him ) told me is that this fabric is made in Italy, and is double sided -- one side navy, another grey in my case.

By the way, did you have a look at their fabled boxer shorts? I am now in the midst of designing my third iteration of bespoke boxers.

Yes. Sorry (and sorry Manself ), but they are nothing special in my opinion. The asking price is indeed special, though... take a seat... 108 euros.

Maybe they have some special bespoke ones... I don't know. What I saw is, again, pretty standard quality-made boxers.

Andrey

[alden]

Andrey

Thanks for the report and pictures. That is a great looking Teba. I have to admit that I wear my Teba almost every day at the ranch when the temperature dips. It is a very practical and comfortable garment. You have inspired me to have one made bespoke...a tweed Sicilian Teba? Well the Spanish influence is omnipresent on the island anyway. Stay tuned..

Cheers

Michael

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Monsieur Xu, Gruto, my pleasure. A few more pics are there.

Wow, I had no idea that we had comrades in Russia! Have you seen any gentlemen dressing elegantly with fur, either scarves or full-on coats and coat linings? There are many pre-war photos of such, but these men seem to have died out, as with so many other things related to style. I am wondering whether to bring a mink or chinchilla scarf for my next sub-zero trip, if at all...

I have access to inexpensive and high-quality fur, the same stuff which many of the big-name guys in Europe source, but have not decided on whether a mink-lapelled greatcoat is comme il faut in London or Paris or not. (No doubt about Moscow or Beijing of course!)

Well, that's a beauty of bespoke (or MTM, if you will) -- personal preferences and quirks.

Bel's tailor told me that these two colours (green-grey and navy blue) are two original ones.

Of course, mine are simply personal preferences. I've always had a predilection for light and cheerful colours, and I think the interesting detailing of the Teba reveals itself better in a lighter shade.

Bel is not inexpensive shop, that is for sure.

However, I believe that teba is worth the expense and priced just about right. It is machine-sewn, but very, very well and precisely. Hand finishing is top notch.

No doubt, the buttonhole you've shown looks immaculate.

Also, I believe they offer genuine bespoke, not MTM. They told me that a personal pattern is created for each customer; moreover, I had a "real" fitting (with quite a few modifications being noticed and marked on a half-finished garment).

Yes from your photos it seems you had the species of basted fitting whereupon the tailor rips one of the sleeves off. I wonder then why they term it MTM - perhaps one of those "lost in translation" bespoke terms, eg su misura, sur mesure.

The only thing Bel's "boss" (as other employees called him ) told me is that this fabric is made in Italy, and is double sided -- one side navy, another grey in my case.

Now that sounds even more interesting. I know a tailor whose specialty is a reversible uncanvassed sportcoat, with no buttons, that can be worn either side. This fabric would be most perfect for such a garment. I suppose the fabric is a special commission?

I don't know much about fabric, but is a fully natural jersey cloth possible, with no addition of sp*ndex or lyc*a? (pardon the obscenities!)

Yes. Sorry (and sorry Manself ), but they are nothing special in my opinion. The asking price is indeed special, though... take a seat... 108 euros.

[/quote]

Well at least the price has not gone up in the two years since I enquired. They also will not do sea island boxers for some inexplicable reason. I've not been impressed by the RTW offerings from Charvet or the Jermyn St chaps either.

My own boxer design will have suit sized MOP buttons, a non-elastic, sized waistband, and hand-rolled hems. And a one-panelled back of course, a trait which I also adopted for my W.Bill linen swimming shorts! (works swimmingly by the way, pardon the pun)

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Andrey

Thanks for the report and pictures. That is a great looking Teba. I have to admit that I wear my Teba almost every day at the ranch when the temperature dips. It is a very practical and comfortable garment. You have inspired me to have one made bespoke...a tweed Sicilian Teba? Well the Spanish influence is omnipresent on the island anyway. Stay tuned..

Cheers

Michael

Dear Michael,

How warm does the Teba keep one when outdoors - can it be worn with temps under 10 degrees Celsius? Presumably one would only have at most a sweater vest underneath, since the Teba is a sort of sweater itself. Add a silk cravat, peccary gloves, tweed cap and maybe a foulard scarf in draughty weather?

Would you say it is as or more practical than your shirtjackets? I do think it looks less rustic and could be worn in a casual elegant situation, whereas the shirtjac is more outdoorsy.

Would you change anything in the classic design? I can just picture one now in William Bill's oatmeal Donny tweed with white, red and navy flecks. Yummy...

[andreyb]

Wow, I had no idea that we had comrades in Russia! Have you seen any gentlemen dressing elegantly with fur, either scarves or full-on coats and coat linings? There are many pre-war photos of such, but these men seem to have died out, as with so many other things related to style. I am wondering whether to bring a mink or chinchilla scarf for my next sub-zero trip, if at all...

On fur and general state of things in Russia: suffice it to say that in order to know about elegance one doesn't have to learn Russian... Yet!

Now that sounds even more interesting. I know a tailor whose specialty is a reversible uncanvassed sportcoat, with no buttons, that can be worn either side. This fabric would be most perfect for such a garment. I suppose the fabric is a special commission?

No idea.

I vaguely remember Bel's boss said something like "it is made for us"... but don't take my word for it. There are no labels with fabric merchant names visible anywhere.

I don't know much about fabric, but is a fully natural jersey cloth possible, with no addition of sp*ndex or lyc*a? (pardon the obscenities!)

I probably know less than you do...

This particular cloth is 90% wool + 10% cashmere.

My own boxer design will have suit sized MOP buttons, a non-elastic, sized waistband, and hand-rolled hems. And a one-panelled back of course, a trait which I also adopted for my W.Bill linen swimming shorts! (works swimmingly by the way, pardon the pun)

Well, what I saw is 100% machine-sewn, with machine-sewn buttonholes and regular-sized buttons.

Bel's bespoke boxers might be a different story, though... For example, a few available ready-made tebas had machine-made buttonholes -- while buttonholes on bespoke ones are hand-made.

Andrey

[andreyb]

Michael,

Thanks for the report and pictures. That is a great looking Teba. I have to admit that I wear my Teba almost every day at the ranch when the temperature dips. It is a very practical and comfortable garment. You have inspired me to have one made bespoke...a tweed Sicilian Teba? Well the Spanish influence is omnipresent on the island anyway. Stay tuned..

I am inspired by you in so many ways that to inspire you even in a small thing feels like a priviledge.

Andrey

[alden]

Andrey

Thank you. Over the years you have had to travel far and wide seeking out many of the great craftsmen of Europe because there are few where you live. With enthusiasm and curiosity you have learned a great deal from them and developed your eye. Our young LL members could learn a great deal from your example.

Cheers

Michael

[alden]

Would you say it is as or more practical than your shirtjackets? I do think it looks less rustic and could be worn in a casual elegant situation, whereas the shirtjac is more outdoorsy.

It occurred to me after reading Andrey’s report that the RTW Teba I purchased some two decades ago in Madrid is hanging in the entry to my country home and is worn a lot, as an interior jacket in lieu of a cardigan, because of its 3 patch pockets. I am always stuffing something in pockets around the house and a cardigan does not have them.

The SJ is a more practical and elegant outdoors solution.

Would you change anything in the classic design?

Yes and I am working on my own Meba jacket. The coat could use open front quarters and the Teba I own has them. My coat also has a traditional SB notch lapel and a modified action back. I plan on dropping the action back.

The Teba jacket for indoor use pleads for a heavy flannel. I think tweed is too firm and scratchy. I have chosen a lovely 550 gms Bedford cord in sage green to be made as a 2b front, one button shirt cuffs, three slanted patch pockets and stag horn buttons. There will also be a button to close the top of the coat in case I have to make a mad dash outside in the rain with it on.

Cheers

Michael

[lxlloyd]

Monsieur Xu, Gruto, my pleasure. A few more pics are there.

I don't know much about fabric, but is a fully natural jersey cloth possible, with no addition of sp*ndex or lyc*a? (pardon the obscenities!)

Jersey is a type of knit stitch (Jersey is knitted cloth, not woven - that is why it can be bought in rolls as well as flat) that gives a very drapable, breathable and strechable textile. Because it is knitted, Sp****x and ly**a can be added easily, but anything that can be turned into a yarn can be turned into jersey. (Within reason). The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Double Jersey will have a smooth nappe on both sides. Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines.

Silk Jersey would be what a DVF Dress of a lady friend would be made from, wool jersey and cashmere jersey can be super luxurious fabrics (and blends thereof) tencel jersey and cotton jersey (and blends thereof) You will be more familiar with having presumably encountered the odd t-shirt in your life.. The original jersey was made from thick wool yarns by fisherman on the island of jersey, who just invented the stitch for their jumpers/sweaters as an early type of performance fabric. It was regarded as an underwear fabric until the beginning of the 20th century, when Coco Chanel and Madeleine Vionnet revolutionised womenswear by using it for dresses. (Mainly in the form of silk jersey. but also using cotton jersey.) It began creeping into sportswear (Because of it's flexible properties) and from there evolved into a mens casualwear fabric.

But jersey stitch is actually one of the most basic knitting stitches and a lot of sweaters (even ones you may not recognise as jersey) will be made from it.

[mrdraper]

so nice to see how these workshops really function behind closed doors