Fabric weight & underwear

[rewozz]

Hello forum,

I recently received a pair of slacks made of 340 gram worsted flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico (LW 221276 2620). The fabric is actually surprisingly good with a great mottled appearance (even though it's worsted). Although I'm satisfied with the slacks I'm thinking about ordering another pair made of Harrisons of Edinburgh 400 or 475 gram woolen flannel. I live in Sweden so the heavier stuff will surely come in handy, but before I proceed I would like to inquire about the possibility of sticking with the 340 gram fabric and wearing long johns on the colder days. There are some benefits to this, firstly the cost of the fabric is cut in half and secondly the lighter weight fabric would allow me to wear the slacks more often during spring and fall. I'm curious to read anyones thoughts on this.

Thanks!

[rewozz]

Doesn't anyone have an opinion on this—Alden, Costi? I know people here are fond of heavier fabrics (and frankly so am I) but I'm on a tight budget and would really like to get to most out of my wardrobe right now. Are long johns a viable option with lighter cloth? I've found some really nice ones from Schiesser (my favorite underwear):



Doublerib Johns 1/1 length, 100% double-thread mako-cotton—not bad for €28.95.

On a tangent, what is "Rawcord"? Check under "Men" and "Original" at https://www.best-underwear.de/europe/schiesser.html

[davidhuh]

Morgon Rewozz,

what about investing 29 € and trying out? But of course, it works. This is what long johns are made for .

Schiesser is good, Zimmerli is better but ca three times as much and perhaps more difficult to find.

Cheers, David

[cathach]

As a matter of interest what is makó cotton? I've found this description used on Italian sites a lot and now by yourself, I can't seem to find a definition for it anywhere. Try manufactum.com for Zimmerli at the same price point (ish) as Schiesser

[rewozz]

Mako cotton is very fine cotton spun from extra long staple Egyptian fibre.

http://www.textilesintelligence.com/glo ... ?SECTION=M

Thanks for the link davidhuh, although Zimmerli is still priced more than double. The website also only states 100% cotton Jersey without giving any more specifics. Jersey fabric is just a generic name applied to weft knitted fabric. In my eyes Zimmerli seems to take a price premium because of their better known brand. Why pay more than double if you can get 2-ply extra long staple Egyptian (Mako) cotton for so much less? The Schiesser stuff looks just as good an can be washed at 95°C!

[davidhuh]

Dear Rewozz,

regarding Zimmerli: I am completely biased of course, wearing nothing else but Zimmerli for 30 years. If you find me a better cotton anywhere, I will be happy to switch.

Schiesser is much better known as a brand, but they play in a different league. It is a very decent quality, I am not trashing them at all. You can save some money on energy, as Zimmerli is washed at 60°C

Cheers, David

[rewozz]

Yes, well I normally wash my underwear at 60°C but it's nice to be able to go up to 95°C with some OxiClean to get the yellowing out once every six months.

Regarding Zimmerli, I have yet to try the brand but don't they also use 2-ply extra long staple Egyptian cotton? If so I can't really see the benefits, except for the style of the garments which of course is a personal preference. But then the question remains if the styles (which are very similiar to Schiessers Originals) are worth the price.

I feel we're getting off-topic here though, I'm still undecided if I should go for another pair of 340 gram worsted flannel slacks (complemented with long johns for the colder days) or take the plunge on a pair of 475 gram woolen flannel slacks which would mostly be worn during wintertime. How is the durability of the woolen flannel compared to the worsted?

[All over the world]

Derek Rose? They have been making underwear for England's finest for decades.

[davidhuh]

Regarding Zimmerli, I have yet to try the brand but don't they also use 2-ply extra long staple Egyptian cotton? If so I can't really see the benefits, except for the style of the garments which of course is a personal preference. But then the question remains if the styles (which are very similiar to Schiessers Originals) are worth the price.

Dear Rewozz,

Zimmerli is using Egyption Mako cotton. I don't know if there are additional challenges and hurdles to overcome in order to ensure a stable high quality supply chain from the source of production. However, the raw material is just the basis. Cotton needs to be processed and weaved into cloth. For some reason which escapes me, the best cotton is made in Switzerland. It might have to do with specific techniques or machines.
What I know for sure is that Zimmerli is using machines made for them. Nobody else manages to produce underwear which is that durable, elastic and light as a feather. This of course comes with a price, which people who know will pay. I might visit their factory in the coming months and write a little more. Also Alumo would be worth a visit.

Cheers, David

[Rowly]

I would imagine you would want a fine thin material so as not to be bulky and yet provide heat, and other qualities. I have sensitive skin and normally don't wear wool next to my skin. However, I did try an Icebreaker t-shirt , which was recommended to me in a sports shop for its great wicking qualities and breathability. If you get their finest pure merino...you would swear it was cotton to the touch. I suspect they might do long Johns also. It might be worth a try..... http://eu2.icebreaker.com/Leggings/mens ... en,sc.html

[rodes]

Increased warmth is only one of the advantages that derives from wearing suits made from heavier cloth. Indeed it is a minor one and sometimes not even an advantage. There are many other assets. Heavier cloth tailors better, resists wrinkles, lasts longer, has more character, and presents much greater depth of color.

[rewozz]

All right, but how is the durability of woolen flannel at 475 gram compared to 12 oz worsted flannel? If I go with another pair of 12 oz worsted flannel slacks I could wear them more during spring and fall and when it gets colder I could just put on some long johns. It seems like I would get more use of them, plus they also come cheaper.

[Screaminmarlon]

In my experience, with woolen flannel it's better to avoid repeated wear, especially when worn as trousers (once in a week, not much more often). It's not a workhorse cloth, even at 475gms, because of its construction. If you're on a tight budget, it's better to avoid woolen flannel. Worsted flannel is middle of the road, less warm, more durable, much less character, but it's still an option.
Since you're looking for a warm, durable and characterful cloth, why not give tweed a shot?
saluti
Massimiliano

[uppercase]

I thought that it was generally accepted not to wear underwear when wearing bespoke as it disturbs the line.

[davidhuh]

I thought that it was generally accepted not to wear underwear when wearing bespoke as it disturbs the line.

Dear Uppercase,

do you mean this?