New Bespoke Shoes : A Blind Tasting

[NJS]

I hesitate to dig myself in even deeper! I didn't mean that the stitching was bad - it's obviously hand-done but well done. I meant that the depth of the punching looked shallow in the early pictures - but not so in the later ones. Only you know whether they fit well. The leather looks good and they're nicely made. I think, though, that they're probably made by a single last and shoe-maker (maybe in Northamptonshire) and not a team (including out-workers) - the stitching on the toe caps is very distinctive and individual. I just get the overall impression that they do not come from Lobb/Foster-Maxwell/G&G/Cleverley/ or somewhere like that. I certainly did not mean to 'knock' them and there is no need to apologise for misunderstanding my earlier ramblings!
NJS

[Simon A]

Feichang piaoliang de 雨伞 (yusan). The character even looks like an umbrella....

I have boots with a similar smooth rubber sole, but they are still a bit treacherous if paths are icy or muddy. You might consider looking at the Vibram catalogue at http://www.vibram.us/products/products. ... =Lifestyle# for some low profile soles with some tread on the soles. I know it is less elegant than a leather sole but safer. Your bootmaker can advise you on the various options.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

I think, though, that they're probably made by a single last and shoe-maker (maybe in Northamptonshire) and not a team (including out-workers) - the stitching on the toe caps is very distinctive and individual.

Alright, partial disclosure time - it is indeed a single artisan who designed the shoe and patterns, cut and dyed the leather by hand, made the mock-up trial pair, assessed fit, lasted and finally closed the shoe - indeed, as you say, all tasks which would be divided in the West End. He does not consider himself a lastmaker and so orders lasts in with which he modifies with leather patches, according to the Austro-Hungarian tradition. Nonetheless, the fit is as good as I can tell now. Wait till Tuesday, when I do a comparative with a pair of Cleverleys with which I have my first fitting.

The leather looks good

He told me that he clicks only one pair of shoes/boots from each hide he gets, which are all top-grain and the best quality attainable from his suppliers. This is what Lobb Paris claims to do as well.

By the way, I've been told by some West End makers that veg-tanned shoe upper leather is unattainable now, but the maker of this pair of boots readily produced a catalogue from a German supplier (Teepee) which does provide veg-tanned upper leather, and apparently the Viennese makers are not dissimilar in this regard. Anyone keen to unravel the mystery?

I just get the overall impression that they do not come from Lobb/Foster-Maxwell/G&G/Cleverley/ or somewhere like that.

The boots are indeed not of English provenance - I see now that they emanate a distinct and recognisable Austro-Hungarian air.

[alden]

It looks like someone who has studied in Austria or Hungary and learned the trade. It could very well be a Japanese artisan who has returned home. But the crafting of this shoe looks alot like the work the shoemaker of Edwin Neo from Singapore. Its hard to tell because the photos are not that clear. In any case it is a nice looking shoe and reminds me of the new LL Balmoral boot made in Northampton, this time.

Cheers

Michael

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Feichang piaoliang de 雨伞 (yusan). The character even looks like an umbrella....

多谢多谢 (Many thanks) !

Your putonghua is excellent. The character for umbrella is quite revelatory in the sense that it proves that the fundamental shape and design of the umbrella has not changed in three millennia (when the Oracle Bone Script gave birth to the Chinese written language). The traditional character has four "ren" or people under the umbrella, which possibly symbolises the eminence of the personage being shielded, or the size of ancient brollies, or that umbrellas encourage fertility.

China was the first civilisation where umbrellas proper existed; other cultures such as the Egyptians and Persians had parasols, but these were meant for shade rather than protection from rain. It was the advent of oil-coated rice paper that allowed these parasols to be used in inclement weather. It is interesting to note that umbrellas in pre-Imperial China actually evolved from standard bearers on chariots, hence they have always been perceived as a symbol of authority.

Without hijacking my own thread further, let me post a couple pictures of the brolly workshop. While superficially they may resemble the kitschy mass-produced plastic imitations seen at every Chinatown in the world, the comparison is not unlike a bespoke suit or shoe versus the same bought on the high street - there is a palpable distinction in materials, craftsmanship, design, and sheer love. I intend to commission a plain navy blue canopy with just a small gold seal, with a brown bamboo frame, so that it wouldn't look out of place in any European metropolis. I will retire my machine-made and synthetic-covered Brigg, James Smith and Fox brollies henceforth.

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I have boots with a similar smooth rubber sole, but they are still a bit treacherous if paths are icy or muddy. You might consider looking at the Vibram catalogue at http://www.vibram.us/products/products. ... =Lifestyle# for some low profile soles with some tread on the soles. I know it is less elegant than a leather sole but safer. Your bootmaker can advise you on the various options.

We did discuss the sole options before making and decided that I should test the boots with the flat Vibrams first, and if they should prove inadequate, we can change them to Commando soles. Maybe I'll keep the leather soles and invest in a sedan chair and litter bearers to carry me around!

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

It looks like someone who has studied in Austria or Hungary and learned the trade.

But the crafting of this shoe looks alot like the work the shoemaker of Edwin Neo from Singapore.

To quote the White House, I "will not confirm or deny at this point", but am curious as to what in the boots makes you come to this conclusion.

reminds me of the new LL Balmoral boot made in Northampton, this time.

Your lovely LL Carmina balmorals inspired me greatly in the design of this boot! The G&G balmoral (can't remember the name) as well. Here are pics below - hopefully there's some family resemblance!

G&G balmorals.jpg

Balmorals small-res.jpg

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

ps. Just a thought, I think it would be a good idea to invite DWF II over from SF. He seems a fount of knowledge, a stickler for quality, and an utmost gentleman. He can be our resident shoe expert!

[alden]

To quote the White House, I "will not confirm or deny at this point", but am curious as to what in the boots makes you come to this conclusion.

Well the overall look is Austro-Hungarian. But the shoe is not finished like one. You mentioned it was one craftsman who made the shoe and there are few in Europe. So it had to be a person who had apprenticed in Europe and moved back home. Of craftsmen fitting this description who make shoes in the Austro-Hungarian style in Asia, there are five in Japan, two in Korea, one in SG and two in India. (Actually, there is only one in Korea, because the shoemaker in N. Korea now only works for the Son King; and in India, there is only one because the kid in Patna who made for one of the last Maharajah had an accident with Gordons gin and is blinded.)

There was something about the shape of the stitching on the side of the boot that reminded me of the beak of the Crimson Sunbird, the national bird of Singapore. So eliminating all that was not possible from the remaining that was possible, the conclusion deduced was the shoemaker from Edwin Neo.

Elementary my dear Mr. Xu.

[NJS]

^That's what I call going to whole nine yards.
NJS

[Lugano]

a fine pair of boots, old bean

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Well the overall look is Austro-Hungarian.

But the shoe is not finished like one.

Michael, could you elaborate on these two separate points? I'm very much a bespoke shoe greenhorn, so am not all that familiar with the intricacies of Continental shoemaking.

You mentioned it was one craftsman who made the shoe and there are few in Europe.

Are there actually any in Europe that actually make the shoe from start to finish themselves? Even Delos and Gomez have one or two others to help. Amesbury in London uses outworkers. Perhaps only Marcell in Budapest?

the shoemaker in N. Korea now only works for the Son King

I take it he doesn't travel much then?

in India, there is only one because the kid in Patna who made for one of the last Maharajah had an accident with Gordons gin and is blinded.

Now how on Earth did this happen? And really, how do you know such things?

There was something about the shape of the stitching on the side of the boot that reminded me of the beak of the Crimson Sunbird, the national bird of Singapore.

Ok, now you're scaring me. I've asked four locals in the last few days, and not a single one has even heard of the bird, including Edwin. I don't quite see the resemblance in any case, moreover the "v" at the side was my idea, and I certainly did not have any national birds in mind, at least not of the avian sort.

the conclusion deduced was the shoemaker from Edwin Neo.

Well, chapeau to our dear founder again! But how did you hear of him?

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

When it rains, it pours... not a few days after my bespoke boots were inaugurated, I had my fitting with a pair from Cleverley. Here are the pictorial reports of the dogfight. I invite members to critique the differences in fit, construction, and whatever other nuances.

First the Cleverleys...

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[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Is there a shoe version of polygamy?

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Notice how the length of both pairs (their heels are level with each other) are almost identical, and how their toecaps and throats are level. Note as well the differences in last style of the English and Austro-Hungarian traditions.

[Rowly]

~ Monsieur Xu ~
Interesting pics, and a great opportunity to compare them side by side. I know they're in their raw state so the finish cannot yet be compared. However, how did they feel on? Any discernable difference in the comfort and feel between them? Is there a noticeable difference in the quality of the leather?...thanks. Your boots are very fine, by the way..Rowly.

[MTM]

Thanks for posting these. I hope you will post a full report on the umbrella maker.