New Bespoke Shoes : A Blind Tasting

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Dear Friends,

I submit before thee a new pair of balmoral boots, and would appreciate comments on the quality of craftsmanship and execution.

The design brief was to have a pair that would exude considerable chic, while remaining robust against the elements. The raison d'etre of the boots is to conquer the globe - or at least the cobblestones of its most elegant cities. Therefore, a balance was struck between the hand-dyed and -waxed chestnut calf (with reddish antiqueing), handwelting, and possibly the further addition of vibram soles (excluding the fiddleback waist area).

Extra kudos to any member who can identify the maker or regional style - time to evaluate the palates of our chaussures sommeliers!

Cheers,

B

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

More glimpses of the finishing...

[NJS]

Quite nice but probably not, I fear, from a great London maker; nor G&G (offering vibram soles?): the tooling and the general finish isn't there; although the stitching and the fit seem good; as does the leather. The shallowness of the tooling suggests Vass, possibly; the toe box and the straight heel also suggest them; although they generally call 'Balmorals' - 'Oxfords' but the 'V' indentation on the outer side of the galosh tops might be a signature. However, the double rows of stitching on the top of the toe cap are unusual (especially since there is no row of stitching beneath). The 'fiddleback' is a little roughly defined.
NJS

[Slewfoot]

Hmmm...I'm guessing these might be from Cliff Roberts in the UK. I had a pair made from him a few years ago. While nice they unfortunately did not fit my difficult feet so I was forced to part ways with them.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Quite nice but probably not, I fear, from a great London maker; nor G&G (offering vibram soles?): the tooling and the general finish isn't there; although the stitching and the fit seem good; as does the leather. The shallowness of the tooling suggests Vass, possibly; the toe box and the straight heel also suggest them; although they generally call 'Balmorals' - 'Oxfords' but the 'V' indentation on the outer side of the galosh tops might be a signature. However, the double rows of stitching on the top of the toe cap are unusual (especially since there is no row of stitching beneath). The 'fiddleback' is a little roughly defined.
NJS

from a great London maker; nor G&G

I won't reveal the maker yet, but am curious if you meant something by this statement? I chuckled on reading it.

offering vibram soles?

the rubber soles are entirely my doing - as I mentioned, these boots are meant for heavy travel to rugged climes (I have a trip to the outer wilderness in Southwest China coming up which is six hours' drive from the nearest city, and another trip to Mitteleuropa where I expect snow, and plan to wear the boots consecutively for both adventures). The failure of my leather-soled Chelsea boots during a rainy day in Paris last year prompted this minor defection to rubber.

shallowness of the tooling suggests Vass

Did you mean the channelled stitching?

the 'V' indentation on the outer side of the galosh tops

This was of my design - the other option was a straight galosh which I found to be dull, preferring curviness as with most things in general

the double rows of stitching on the top of the toe cap

I did not expect this, but the unique and subtle design is endearing itself to me.

On another note, let me mention how much I truly enjoyed your first book (I have not had the pleasure of your second yet). The anecdotes in particular are riveting. Having lived in your so-called "God's Quad" at university in London, I made frequent forays into the vast gentleman's jungle of St James's, and agree with your assertion that there is nowhere on this Earth that surpasses the Parish in its Anglophiliac attractions.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

And more pictures...

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Hmmm...I'm guessing these might be from Cliff Roberts in the UK. I had a pair made from him a few years ago. While nice they unfortunately did not fit my difficult feet so I was forced to part ways with them.

Not Cliff Roberts, although I might try him in future.

[old henry]

These rustic shoes are worked with old craft by human hands. I say they have great beauty. A man puts food on his table by toiling at his bench. People dont understand many things. Experts all.. Frank Shattuck

[NJS]

^ Mr Xu, I am completely wrong about the heels and those and the double stitching have stumped me! The reference to G&G was not meant to be snide: they are not based in London (although they offer measuring and fitting services there) but they are great makers in my view and that's all that I meant by it. By the tooling I really meant the line of brogueing. The latest pictures suggest to me that they are not Vass at all! Totally stumped. I am glad that you liked the book.
NJS

[Simon A]

Xu Xiansheng,

Very nice boots. If considering rubber soles for reasons of practicality and comfort, maybe you could consider Dress Vibram soles instead of a heavily-lugged commando sole. Dress Vibram has reasonable tread on slippery pavements or even in snow, but has a slimmer profile and looks reasonable on such a boot. Enjoy your travels in the Four Rivers.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Wow Thay are really beautiful shoes. Wear them long and well. I love that style. Great with tweeds. Frank

With Frank Shattuck's permission, I am posting a PM which he sent me. I have exactly in mind to pair the boots with a gunclub sportcoat and moleskins/cords this autumn.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

These rustic shoes are worked with old craft by human hands. I say they have great beauty. A man puts food on his table by toiling at his bench. People dont understand many things. Experts all.. Frank Shattuck

I couldn't agree more. Each time I put them on (about ten times in the last two days since I received them!), I can feel the noble toil of the craftsman's hands; the sweat, the concentration, the artistry. There is something ethereal and honest about knowing that a human being worked many hours with his bare hands and vintage tools hunched on a stool with your shoes in his lap, that makes wearing them all the more satisfying, illuminating, even... moving.

It is then that the great contrast with factory-made shoes becomes even more apparent, and all the more intolerable. I shall never buy a pair of ready-mades again, for better or for worse.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

The reference to G&G was not meant to be snide: they are not based in London (although they offer measuring and fitting services there) but they are great makers in my view and that's all that I meant by it.
NJS

Dear Nicholas,

Ah I see, apologies for misunderstanding your comment. I concur with you that G&G are among the best makers in the world, but nevertheless there are some (not I, though) that find their designs an acquired taste.

By the tooling I really meant the line of brogueing

Thank you on behalf of the maker, there are some slight irregularities with the punching, but that simply evinces its handcrafted nature.

I am completely wrong about the heels

Another picture to whet the appetite

9.JPG

[Rowly]

Health to wear your new boots, Monsieur Xu...they have the human touch!

There is something ethereal and honest about knowing that a human being worked many hours with his bare hands and vintage tools hunched on a stool with your shoes in his lap, that makes wearing them all the more satisfying, illuminating, even... moving.

It is then that the great contrast with factory-made shoes becomes even more apparent, and all the more intolerable. I shall never buy a pair of ready-mades again, for better or for worse.

Very well put.That is how I feel about my bespoke clothes and I am about to venture into the world of bespoke shoes in the next few days. I am safe in the knowledge that my shoemaker will put his heart and soul into his work, which he takes a great pride in, and like you, I know that that will be borne out in the personality of the shoes, regardless of how aesthetically pleasing they appear to others. Thanks for the post, I feel I am in good company

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Xu Xiansheng,

Very nice boots. If considering rubber soles for reasons of practicality and comfort, maybe you could consider Dress Vibram soles instead of a heavily-lugged commando sole. Dress Vibram has reasonable tread on slippery pavements or even in snow, but has a slimmer profile and looks reasonable on such a boot. Enjoy your travels in the Four Rivers.

Xie xie,

I have exactly those dress vibram soles in mind, but the maker suggested letting me test-drive the boots with the veg-tanned leather soles first before taking them back before my trip to sand off the sole and heel and attach the vibram soles. I must confess that I am tempted to leave the soles as is and brave the elements regardless!

I attach pictures of the intended sole treatment, which seems rather unique. This pair, however, is not representative of the maker's full skill, being a piece for himself.

vibram 1.jpg

vibram 2.jpg

Enjoy your travels in the Four Rivers.

You know a fair bit about China's geography, I see! I'm actually off to Pu'er County to visit some farmer friends and buy some cakes made from ancient trees (circa 1000 years old) growing deep within mountain-top forests.

But yes, I will be in the Four Rivers (Sichuan) as well, visiting an artisanal umbrella maker to commission a bespoke umbrella with my family seal on it. These guys are the sole remaining traditional Chinese-style umbrella maker left in the country, spending 80 hours to make the intricate wooden skeleton by hand with old bamboo grown 900m in the mountains. These umbrellas are no different in design and material from the ones that adorn the command chariots of the Qin Emperor's Terracotta Army, and represent about 2500 years of history and accumulated wisdom.

1.jpg