Santa Maria Novella: Citrus advice?

[Rowly]

As a lover of Eau Savage, I have been looking into other citrus, bergamot type colognes.
I sampled these two from Santa Maria Novella, but with so many fragrances around, I got overwhelmed and found it difficult to discern between them. The third on the list is suggested as an alternative. Can anyone advise or even point me towards any others I have not thought of?...thanks

Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Colonia
Santa Maria Novella: Acqua di Silicia
Guerlain Imperiale

[davidhuh]

As a lover of Eau Savage, I have been looking into other citrus, bergamot type colognes.
Can anyone advise or even point me towards any others I have not thought of?...thanks

Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Colonia
Santa Maria Novella: Acqua di Silicia
Guerlain Imperiale

Dear Rowly,

there is quite a choice out there. What I like with citrus based scents is their freshness, and the fact that they are discrete and not overwhelming. A few I am using, depending on temper and outside temperature:
Annick Goutal: Eau d'Hadrien
Claus Porto: Musgo Real no 3
Penhaligon's: Extract of Limes
Penhaligon's: Blenheim Bouquet (perhaps the longest lasting, at least on my skin)
BOIS: Agrumi amari di Sicilia
Floris: Limes
Hermès: Eau d'orange verte (when it is very warm only)

cheers, david

[Costi]

Rowly,

What I use for the summer is Acqua di Colonia and Acqua di Colonia Russa. There is little difference between them, the latter being a little more fresh or "clean" (simpler than Russa, which has an added "masculine" note - which I like!). They are both based on orange blossom water. None is similar to Eau Sauvage, though (which is not cologne, but EDT, as far as I know)... But they are better in my opinion. They smell of good soap, rather than "perfume" - like any good cologne should, in my opinion (it's meant to refresh you, right?). Just what is needed for summer!
Not a fan of the Sicily cologne...
I also use Trumper's Extract of Limes for a splash of intoxicating pure lime that almost makes you light-headed, but fades away quickly into a nice close-to-skin discreet fragrance.
But I don't want to steer you away from SMN, do try those two, they are both great. They also make Colonia Russa soap bars and I highly recommend them.
I also use the Lavender (fresh, dry, clean) and the bitter-sweet-powdery Melograno (but you wouldn't like that, if you are looking for citrus). Their Vetiver is excellent (the best and most masculine-dry I have ever smelled), their Sandalwood is very sensual (though it has a medicinal top note, it dissolves into a very "organic" scent). Their Opoponax is a good alternative to amber-based perfumes.
What else?

[Rowly]

Dear Rowly,

there is quite a choice out there. What I like with citrus based scents is their freshness, and the fact that they are discrete and not overwhelming.
Penhaligon's: Extract of Limes
Penhaligon's: Blenheim Bouquet (perhaps the longest lasting, at least on my skin)

David, I also use the two above. Like yourself, I like the freshness of citrus. I find in enlivening, fresh and clean and not too feminine. Thanks for your input, Rowly.

[Costi]

David, for some reason I can't quite get myself to use the Blenheim Bouquet in summer, although it IS a citrus fragrance. Perhaps it's the pine?

I like the Trumper's limes better than Penhaligon's or Floris's - it's simpler, more straightforward, pure untainted lime pleasure. It makes my mouth water

[Simon A]

Terre D'Hermes is a powerful citrus scent.
Truffit and Hill West Indian Limes is similar to the Trumpers, but I think is slightly more complex (with a clove and orange blossom base, and lemon and lime topnotes) and less expensive.

[Rowly]

Costi, I'm no expert in Cologne by any means. I mentioned the Eau Sauvage to give a ballpark idea of my tastes. I like a variety of fragrances. I'm not even sure if there's any consistency between them. They include Creed Vetiver, I have Green Irish Tweed but I'm not really fussed on it. I like Extract of Limes, Trumpers Cologne, Trumpers sandlewood shower gel ( not citrus, I know), the original Armani Homme, --- usually anything with citrus and bergamot and orange etc...I like suggestions of the old world barbershop. Like you, I like soapy masculine fresh and clean aromas. Anyway, I will try your suggestions at the first opportunity and if my head isn't too light, I'll report back. I'm sure some of the fragrances you suggest are not to be sniffed at .Thanks,Rowly.

[Costi]

hehe
Some swear by Farina "gegenueber" for being the ORIGINAL eau de cologne, but I still believe SMN fathered it. Farina - allegedly still make today to the original recipe - is too sweet for my tastes. Too... unisex?
Oh, and while we're at SMN, don't forget to buy NO MATTER WHAT a bottle of the Potpourri eau de cologne. It is THE fragrance for me - but not for summer...

[davidhuh]

David, for some reason I can't quite get myself to use the Blenheim Bouquet in summer, although it IS a citrus fragrance. Perhaps it's the pine?

I like the Trumper's limes better than Penhaligon's or Floris's - it's simpler, more straightforward, pure untainted lime pleasure. It makes my mouth water

Dear Costi,

on Blenheim Bouquet: it may be the pine, or the cedar or the musk
I do use it in summer, but mainly in the evening, when I dress up properly for theatre, opera or smoking long cigars

Trumpers is on my list of things to try. I find the Penhaligon's more interesting than the Floris - but I have a 30-year old affection for Penhaligon's extract of limes. I was very pleased when it was reissued recently.

cheers, david

[levantine]

Maybe you should also try Zagara from Santa Maria Novella

Also Maitre Gantier Parrfumeur and l'Artisan parfuemeur have a quite a few you might like. Please check their websites. I am a lover of all things Italian. But I think in perfumes and wines the French are ahead!

[alden]

But I think in perfumes and wines the French are ahead!

I would tend to agree with this but two Sicilian wines, one from Frank Cornelissen and the other from Ariana Occhipinti, are the rage in Paris right now.

The citrus based cologne that comes to mind is Eau du Coq by Guerlain. I have worn it for years along with Eau de Sologne from Parfums de Nicolai. The compositions are very similar with the Guerlain being just a bit more fresh and the Sologne a bit richer.

I have to cast a vote in favor of Trumper's Limes as well, it is a summer mainstay for southern climes.

Cheers

M Alden

[Rowly]

Great advice from all! I'm sure if I fall into a cologne emporium I'll come up smelling of roses...but of the citrus variety, of course ...thanks!

[Costi]

Now, that would be the Floris Special no. 127 for you, signor duca!

[davidhuh]

Floris Special no. 127

Dear Costi,

very much an acquired taste indeed, great in cold winters

cheers, david

[Costi]

Haha - so pine in summer and roses in winter. Now THAT is an acquired taste indeed...
Well, if Michael Alden can wear overcoats in August , who am I to argue about perfumes?!
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 32&t=10269
(it gives "Acqua di Sicilia" a whole new meaning But this superb coat really conjures up "Tabacco Toscano" to me. Going syn-esthetic here... )

Although, speaking of roses and bouquets, I can't imagine anyone wearing the heavy-rosy Hammam Bouquet other than in cold weather (I'd choke on it on a hot summer day)... perhaps that's why I have not yet acquired that taste, it is a bit of a fragrance oxymoron. Or a paradox, as far as one can be worn.