Esquire UK article-A Manual on the Suit

[alden]

For those of you who have access to Esquire's UK edition, there is an informative "Manual" and practical guide to buying and wearing the Suit this month. It features two articles by yours truly on "The 10 Things to Ask Your Tailor" (pg 132) and "The 10 Laws of the Suit" (pg 136.) I welcome any Esquire readers who have discovered the London Lounge as a result of these writings.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[Suburban]

I enjoyed the articles and will find them helpful. The Year in Suits article was good, but in my line of work, I mainly would wear just a blazer and trousers. I wish the article had included something with just blazers and separate trousers through the year for a more casual office setting.

The article does give great insite to the correct suit through the year.

[Canuck]

Is there any possibility, if there are no "Copyright" problems with Esquire, print these articles on London Lounge site.
I live in Canada and the North American Esquire did not run these articles and they where not available on the Esquire UK web site.
Thank you for any possible help.

Canuck

[alden]

Here is an an excerpt of the piece originally entitled "What I have learned about the suit":

Many men have an uneasy relationship with the suit. They consider it a professional necessity, a uniform, a weekly condemnation.

Here are a few things I have learned about the suit that might make wearing one more agreeable:

1. Workaday routine can easily make dress formulaic. Clothes tailored from fabrics like tweeds, flannels and linen will enliven a man’s feeling for the suit.

2. The Italians are consummate suit wearers; they have the attitude that makes a suit look comfortable and inviting instead of austere and menacing.

3. With guidance from tailors in Italy I made the move away from heavily structured suits to softer and more lightly tailored clothing that moves in harmony with the body. The improved comfort will make you want to wear your suit.

4. Shape and proportion form an elegant silhouette in a suit before anything else. Cloth, colour and styling are wasted if the fit is poor.

5. Choose the heaviest weight cloth that your internal thermostat permits. Suits made of heavy cloth drape better, rarely require pressing and last longer.

6. Coats tend to be too long. A shorter coat allows an extended view of the legs and the improved line adds instant vigor and youthfulness.

7. To look its very best, a double breasted suit should be slim fitted. One who prefers roomy comfort is better off in single breasted suits.

8. Fashion has driven many to concentrate on the coat neglecting the fit and style of trousers: if they are too narrow, riding low on the hips and end in puddles of cloth around the ankles, they are style killers.

9. The character of pattern in the weave or design of a fabric confers an immediate dose of discrete style to the wearer. That is often all it takes to make a plain city suit look more appealing.

10. There is no such thing as a flawless suit. Style is a balance of comfort and aesthetics. It is achieved by defining priorities and embracing splendid imperfection.

[ismailalmurtadza]

Mr.Alden,
What about an excerpt from 'The 10 Things to Ask Your Tailor' ?.A valuable information for every one who are taking their first steps into the world of Bespoke.
For me ,the least.

murtadza

[alden]

Ten Things to Ask a Tailor (before placing a deposit)

The secret of making great clothes does not lie in the mastery of details but in the ability to communicate a clear style image to a talented craftsman.

Here are a few things to keep in mind:

1. Are you in the right place? Observe the tailors’ clients and see how they dress. Ask to see examples of clothes the tailor has made recently. Does the style, fit and finish inspire your confidence and trust?

2. Do you have a clear idea of what you want? Communicate how and where you will wear your new clothes. Ask the tailor if the proposed styling, cut and cloth selection meets your practical needs.

3. How many fittings will be required? Be prepared to participate actively in these sessions dedicating quality time to what is intrinsically a collaborative effort.

4. Ask the tailor to set a time frame for the completion of the work. If you need the clothes for an event, establish a clear calendar.

5. Have you chosen the cloth carefully? Study many different fabrics in the color and style you require. Ask the tailor which cloth makes up best.

6. Will be the tailor be making an individual paper pattern? This is usually a sign of traditional bespoke as opposed to made-to-measure where a standard pattern is manipulated.

7. A good tailor will alert you to any errors or stumbling blocks. Ask the tailor to proof your order and endeavor to understand the reasons for any of his concerns.

8. Are you at a weight you can easily maintain? You will frustrate the tailor and yourself if you are a moving target, especially between fittings.

9. Who is making the clothes? Many large firms use outsourced tailors. Ideally the person making your coat will see you before he or she starts sewing for you.

10. Ask the tailor to read your order back to you one last time. If you have briefed the tailor fully and he has educated you as to the practical realities, you will be ready to place the order.

The source of a tailor’s pride is making you look great. If you have prepared yourself to use his services well, place the deposit and get ready for the first fitting.

Michael Alden

[davidhuh]

Dear Michael,

I love your lists, this is very useful

What about having a FAQ section for easier access to such information, with chapters for suiting, shirting, evening wear, shoe makers etc?

Cheers, David