Double vs. Single Breasted
What is the proportion of double to single breasted jackets in your wardrobe? Mine is perhaps 1 to 6 with the db worn mostly in cool weather.
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Simon A
1:1 . In the blazing heat of summer I prefer SB but the rest of the year I am happy with either. I think I look reasonable in both styles.
Simon A, Thanks for your candid response. I would have guessed that this number would be 1:2 to 1:4 for most Loungers. At 1:1 you are clearly more stylish than I. However,I hope to improve on this. Several months ago with encouragement from Costi, I started to employ the DB for business and found the result favorable. My plans call for perhaps three such suits over the next few years. You are correct in saying that the DB coat is appropriate in all but the warmest weather.
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Simon A
Hi Rodes, I doubt I am more stylish than you or anyone else 
Some people look better in one designation than another because of their build, I feel I look adequate in both. It is enjoyable to experiment anyway, I hope you have fun.
Some people look better in one designation than another because of their build, I feel I look adequate in both. It is enjoyable to experiment anyway, I hope you have fun.Me? Great! DB does seem to make one feel (I don't know about look) dapper. It's not more formal, on the contrary - but that is a matter of rules. In terms of feeling, even if it's a linen odd coat, the DB makes me feel dapper.rodes wrote:Simon A, Thanks for your candid response. I would have guessed that this number would be 1:2 to 1:4 for most Loungers. At 1:1 you are clearly more stylish than I. However,I hope to improve on this. Several months ago with encouragement from Costi, I started to employ the DB for business and found the result favorable. My plans call for perhaps three such suits over the next few years. You are correct in saying that the DB coat is appropriate in all but the warmest weather.
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bond_and_beyond
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Gentlemen,
When you mention that you use a DB for business, may I ask what type of business? Are you referring to going to business meetings, or just (or also) wearing DB in the office? As a lawyer much of the day is spent slouching in front of the computer, and since a DB is not to be unbuttoned I assume that wearing a DB for me would be rather uncomfortable?
S
When you mention that you use a DB for business, may I ask what type of business? Are you referring to going to business meetings, or just (or also) wearing DB in the office? As a lawyer much of the day is spent slouching in front of the computer, and since a DB is not to be unbuttoned I assume that wearing a DB for me would be rather uncomfortable?
S
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Gruto
Good point about the DB. It was not invented for office work - more for yatching and other outdoor activities.bond_and_beyond wrote:Gentlemen,
When you mention that you use a DB for business, may I ask what type of business? Are you referring to going to business meetings, or just (or also) wearing DB in the office? As a lawyer much of the day is spent slouching in front of the computer, and since a DB is not to be unbuttoned I assume that wearing a DB for me would be rather uncomfortable?
S
Let med add: Up north the DB is dead as the dodo, also among lawyers. Almost everybody wears a SB suit, IF they wear a suit at all. That means that a DB will attract attention no matter what you do. Attention because of radiant style is fine, but many will not see your radiant style
They will only see affectation. So what do you do? I haven't really solved the problem yet but the most useful DB choice seems to be a DB in solid dark/mid grey worsted.
Last edited by Gruto on Fri May 27, 2011 11:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple: one gets rid of the affectation (it is there, if people can see it they're not imagining, right?) and replaces it with radiant style. DB style!Gruto wrote:Attention because of radiant style is fine, but many will not see your radiant style
Solid dark gray... Is that what they call "the northern lights"?Gruto wrote:I haven't really solved the problem yet but the most useful DB choice seems to be a DB in solid dark/mid grey worsted.
But Man himself was not meant for office work! Yachting / seaside use always a good idea...Gruto wrote: point about the DB. It was not invented for office work - more for yatching and other outdoor activities.
I completely understand Gruto's point about affectation vs. style. As an American lawyer, however, my experience suggests that almost anything one reads on LL runs the risk of being viewed as affectation in today's world. In other words, SB vs. DB will not, in my opinion, be seen as the crossover point from style to affectation.
Several years ago, my wardrobe had deteriorated into business casual to the point that I faced a two-week jury trial with only two suits, and of poor quality and fit at that. I decided to completely remake my wardrobe (still in process with guidance from fora such as LL) and return to a more professional style. This change in style drew much attention and comments. Everything was seen as affectation at first; polished shoes, well-fitting shirts and suits, pocket square, etc. Now, it's just part of my style. I am certain if I wore DB to work one day, it would be accepted as just one more aspect of style.
I always avoided DB in the past. At 5'7", I thought DB would make me look short(er) and blocky. I now think if it is well-proportioned, properly fitted and something you want to wear, there is no reason to avoid DB.
Several years ago, my wardrobe had deteriorated into business casual to the point that I faced a two-week jury trial with only two suits, and of poor quality and fit at that. I decided to completely remake my wardrobe (still in process with guidance from fora such as LL) and return to a more professional style. This change in style drew much attention and comments. Everything was seen as affectation at first; polished shoes, well-fitting shirts and suits, pocket square, etc. Now, it's just part of my style. I am certain if I wore DB to work one day, it would be accepted as just one more aspect of style.
I always avoided DB in the past. At 5'7", I thought DB would make me look short(er) and blocky. I now think if it is well-proportioned, properly fitted and something you want to wear, there is no reason to avoid DB.
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Gruto
Yes, the other strategy is just following your own style credo but if John Bull turns around you do have a slight problem as a Savior of StyleCosti wrote:Simple: one gets rid of the affectation (it is there, if people can see it they're not imagining, right?) and replaces it with radiant style. DB style!Gruto wrote:Attention because of radiant style is fine, but many will not see your radiant style
I recognise thatMartin wrote: Now, it's just part of my style. I am certain if I wore DB to work one day, it would be accepted as just one more aspect of style.
Over time, you get a licens to dress with style among people you often meet. But, the man in street who doesn't know you might not want to recieve the style gift you are offering.John Bull?! He is not part of the equation of Style, which is the exclusive domain of the Self. I think it's just an irrational fear of authenticity, Gruto, our ancestral fear of rejection. What if we are not accepted as we are? Oh my, oh my! Let's put on a mask - the mask of John Bull, if possible, so he doesn't turn and cause me trouble.
But in my experience authenticity (because that's what Style is, the free expression of authenticity in all that we do, dress included) is never rejected - on the contrary, people look for it and love it in others. However, being authentic is a vulnerability we need the power to assume.
Great experience and transformation, Martin! Affectation is replacing authenticity with simulation. John Bulls around the world have a very finely tuned innate Style detector - even those who can't manage to manifest Style in their own lives. They can tell true from fake in an instant. If it's part of you, if it's something you want to wear, go for it with confidence.
The lack of Style we see around is not proof of the scarcity of this quality, but a proof of the limits people set to themselves. Being oneself is the hardest thing to do and the greatest achievement in life. If you like DB coats, just wear them, for God's sake! They're good for business, good for leisure, good in gray, good in brown, good in 4x6 or 2x4. If they make you feel out of place, don't wear them until you grow out of it.
But in my experience authenticity (because that's what Style is, the free expression of authenticity in all that we do, dress included) is never rejected - on the contrary, people look for it and love it in others. However, being authentic is a vulnerability we need the power to assume.
Great experience and transformation, Martin! Affectation is replacing authenticity with simulation. John Bulls around the world have a very finely tuned innate Style detector - even those who can't manage to manifest Style in their own lives. They can tell true from fake in an instant. If it's part of you, if it's something you want to wear, go for it with confidence.
The lack of Style we see around is not proof of the scarcity of this quality, but a proof of the limits people set to themselves. Being oneself is the hardest thing to do and the greatest achievement in life. If you like DB coats, just wear them, for God's sake! They're good for business, good for leisure, good in gray, good in brown, good in 4x6 or 2x4. If they make you feel out of place, don't wear them until you grow out of it.
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Gruto
Style is dialogical, a wise man wrote recentlyCosti wrote:John Bull?! He is not part of the equation of Style
You do have to take into account the people around you. It would be horrible if style was just self expression. In fact, there is too much self expression these days. Modesty and giving room are what we need to find style, and that is why we have to be carefull with our DBs Wise man? He's but a fool!
Dialogue is not about telling the other what you think he wants to hear. First off, we never know what that is (which doesn't prevent us from assuming all the time). Second, it is lying. Dialogue is about truthful comunication. And Style is first and foremost a dialogue with ourselves (as the fool wrote) and then also with the world. We cannot find Style thinking about others, limiting ourselves because of how we assume others might judge us, or looking for Style outside of us. After we tap into it, the dialogue can extend to the outside world. But the dialogue starts within - there is a wonderful book in Romanian (I'm afraid it's never been translated, it's a novel actually) called "The Art of Conversation". The topic is not parlour manners, as the title might suggest, but the incessant conversation the main character keeps entertaining with herself, getting to understand, forgive, KNOW herself, in relation to the world and people around her. That is the kind of dialogue that is essential to finding Style.
There is too much false expression these days, rather than true expression. People put on masks - the weak, of what they think the world expects of them; the revolute - of what they think will shock the others. Neither are truthful. When you are at peace with yourself, you cannot be at war with the world around you, so you take other people into account effortlessly, but without compromising your integrity. But this is a never-ending road, there is no destination, only getting better and better at it - and that's the beauty of it.
Dialogue is not about telling the other what you think he wants to hear. First off, we never know what that is (which doesn't prevent us from assuming all the time). Second, it is lying. Dialogue is about truthful comunication. And Style is first and foremost a dialogue with ourselves (as the fool wrote) and then also with the world. We cannot find Style thinking about others, limiting ourselves because of how we assume others might judge us, or looking for Style outside of us. After we tap into it, the dialogue can extend to the outside world. But the dialogue starts within - there is a wonderful book in Romanian (I'm afraid it's never been translated, it's a novel actually) called "The Art of Conversation". The topic is not parlour manners, as the title might suggest, but the incessant conversation the main character keeps entertaining with herself, getting to understand, forgive, KNOW herself, in relation to the world and people around her. That is the kind of dialogue that is essential to finding Style.
There is too much false expression these days, rather than true expression. People put on masks - the weak, of what they think the world expects of them; the revolute - of what they think will shock the others. Neither are truthful. When you are at peace with yourself, you cannot be at war with the world around you, so you take other people into account effortlessly, but without compromising your integrity. But this is a never-ending road, there is no destination, only getting better and better at it - and that's the beauty of it.
So for all of you who do wear the DB,Simon A not with standing,what is the proportion? Or better asked,how often do you wear the DB vs. SB? Mine is perhaps 1:6.
In answer to bond_and_beyond,I meant for general office wear. It seems to me that the properly fitted DB coat will be comfortable when it is fastened and you are seated. At least mine is. I always unbutton my SB coats when seated but never my DB. The only time that I unbutton it is to take it off and this is always a sad affair!
In answer to bond_and_beyond,I meant for general office wear. It seems to me that the properly fitted DB coat will be comfortable when it is fastened and you are seated. At least mine is. I always unbutton my SB coats when seated but never my DB. The only time that I unbutton it is to take it off and this is always a sad affair!
rodes wrote:The only time that I unbutton it is to take it off and this is always a sad affair!
I often unbutton my DB coats when I am seated at my desk. Not so much if I'm not by myself.
The proportion in suits is probably 1:1 or so. Most summer suits are SB, but most non-summer suits are DB. I also have a few DB summer suits, but also some SB non-summer suits, so they even out.
Most odd jackets are SB, but a few are DB (probably 1 in 5 or so).
Some cloths I would never think of making SB - not because of some "rule", but because they just say "DB" to me (certain stripes particularly). I have a few SB suits made of such cloth (before I learned to "listen" to what cloth says
) and they just look wrong to me, inadequate. A matter of perception, I'm sure...-
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