Bonfanti shirt fabrics

[alden]

Some of you have received samples and lengths of Bonfanti's shirting fabrics. May we have your comments? Have they met or exceeded your expectations?

Giancarlo is very busy these days. I hope to see him at PremiereVision later this month.

Cheers

Michael

[Guest]

One of the shoirts Bugelli made me was in a peach poplin that is really lovely, if a bit delicate. I wonder if that was Bonfanti? It is my nicest summer fabric. I wonder if it is available in other colors.

[Cruz Diez]

Two shirtmakers have made shirts for me using Bonfanti fabrics. Both love working with them. I've worn a casual shirt made of the "Aspen" cotton/cashmere flannel and a few business shirts made of the "Siviglia" poplin with great pleasure. Below I provide some findings, specific to each shirting type.

Aspen: provides the durability of cotton with the sheer luxury of pure cashmere shirting, at a fraction of some exorbitant pure-cashmere prices publicized on the net. Phenomenal for both Summer short-sleeve shirts, thanks to excellent breathability in spite of the weight, and Fall/Winter long-sleeve shirts.

Siviglia: keeps reminding me of the beauty of artisanal fabrics that don't fall into the "superduper" yarn number marketing hype, a phenomenon that has also affected the suiting business. Please excuse me for referring back to the yarn numbers but the Siviglia 1 ply 70 x 2 ply 120 weave, made of the highest-quality, long-staple cotton, beats any 180's 2x2 I've owned in terms of character, substance, and durability... At a fraction of the cost! I prefer matte fabrics over shiny ones, and with ever-so-slight imperfections in the patterns and weave plus depth of color, characteristic of artisanal fabrics. The Bonfanti shirtings deliver just that!

Bravo Mr. Bonfanti!

Best regards,
Miguel

[dopey]

Nice to see you back, Miguel. Your absence has been noted and your return welcomed.

[uppercase]

I wore this shirt the other day made by Leonardo Bugelli from Bonfanti 180s and was reminded again how wonderful such fabric can feel.

These photos were taken in his Florence shop.

[Guest]

What is that lovely jacket the person in the photo is wearing? Also, can anyone ask Bugelli what is the peach fabric he sent me?

[BirdofSydney]

In my humble opinion, the outfit in the first photo would be better served by a squared rather than peaked pocket square. That is, quite literally, the only quibble I can make. It's amazing and inspiring.

I am intrigued by the half-ribbed sleeves of the sweater in the second picture, likewise by the safari-type pockets on the jacket in the third.

The shirt in the fourth is magnificent, as goes without saying.

This is one of those moments where I am filled with the insatiable desire to buy a whole new outfit, so inadequate does my own feel right now. It's not a bad feeling at all.

Regards,

Eden

[Guest]

Those are certainly inspirational photos. This is the sort of inspiration that I miss in American retail. In any event, I called Bugelli to ask him about both the Sahara jacket and the fine fabric one of my shirts was made of. All my shirts were beautiful, but this fabric has to be the most wonderful summer fabric I have ever felt for a shirt, its only flaw is that it seems a bit fragile.

[uppercase]

Rear view of Leonardo's Sahara Jacket, a prototype that he was developing at the time; wonderful for traveling




Leonardo wearing his Sahara Jacket




Sahara Jacket, rear view. Note the mother of pearl in his shop window; Leonardo is a button connoisseur.




Examing a roll of Bonfanti shirting, just delivered by the mailman.





Leonardo admiring artisanal shirting with friend, Claudio, bespoke jeweler extraordinaire




Leonardo wearing a vintage Venetian silk scarf, just brought over and made for him by friend Libero, artisanal tie maker and former Gucci model




Leonardo's famous bespoke Casentino coat with wolf collar. A brilliant local style now found only occassionally in Tuscany. Note shoes, a prototype, which Leonardo is testing, made by friend Stefano Bemer.




Brilliant green lining.




Extradordinary, wonderful details and craftsmanship.

[RWS]

Might some of the details of the Casentino coat (e.g., rear buttons) be usefully incorporated into the Paddock coat now under consideration for the next LL edition?

[Guest]

Are these coats always this bright color and with fur collars?

[uppercase]

The classic Casentino is always this bright orange with fur collar. Traditionally wolf.
The material has the most wonderful texture and hand - nubby, hardy and masculine - which can't be conveyed in the photos.
I have seen this coat worn in the Winter streets of Florence by only the most impeccably dressed , stylishly conservative gentlemen.
It may appear a seeming contradiction, with the bright color, but the Casentino is a Tuscany classic worn gentlemen upholding tradition.

[alden]

Casentino is actually the town where the cloth is manufactured. It has been worn by many famous Florentine dandies, including the great Puccini. Here is an article that may be of interest

http://www.sietequi.it/5/casentino/pastrano.html

Cheers

[miumoi]

...

[tteplitzmd]

Is anyone in possession of any Bonfanti "fancy" pattern swatches? If so, can I convince you to "loan" them to me for a few days, I will pay to receive and return them promptly.
Alternatively, does anyone know of a source for viewing the range in New York, London, or Los Angeles????????

Terry Teplitz