Concordia:
It's a twofold problem, actually. One one hand, whether the lapels are notched or peaked the longer the sweep upward the more elegant and graceful it is to the wearer. It frames the upper torso with a longform capital V and frames the collar and face of the man. Thin face or full face, it complements
a man far better than the constriction and stingy closed effect of a first and second buttonup on a
three-button coat. You might want to Google Henry Poole and Caesare Attolini to see how beautifully
cut lapels should be made.
On the other hand, the long V creates a framework for the shirt and tie and offset silk square the man has chosen. Whether dressed for the office or the country, it's about the only chance a man has to truly express his individuality with design, different scales and textures to complement his rig. Some men never get the hang of it and rely on others to pull it altogether for them, while others have no problem
whatsoever with making accessories work to their advantage.
JMB
John Kent Odd Coat
All well and good, but some men either don't wear a tie all the time or don't want to draw attention to their face with the strong "V." Horses for courses.
John Kent may have cut occasionally for the young Charles, but he certainly cut for Prince Philip at H&C and later in his own firm. He may still, but I don't have any recent knowledge. Your tweed jacket is quite handsome, and much more relaxed than the SB navy blazer he cut for me in '84--presumably in keeping with the military heritage of the garment--though the blazer was equally elegant in its own line. Philip's coats from the early '80s looked quite good.andreyb wrote:Well, according to what I heard, Prince Charles used to be a customer of Hawes & Curtis (until some "dispute of undisclosed nature"), and Kent used to work in H&C. I doubt John Kent even cut for the prince, but at least there are a few common [tailoring] genes.
He still does -- framed warrant from the DoE hangs in the shop. It was issued in August 2010, after John Kent's return from long illness.couch wrote:John Kent may have cut occasionally for the young Charles, but he certainly cut for Prince Philip at H&C and later in his own firm. He may still, but I don't have any recent knowledge.
That's quite interesting. I specifically asked for the coat to be "easy" and "relaxed". So, perhaps this is not his default cut? Or probably he chooses the cut depending on the nature of a particular garment?couch wrote:Your tweed jacket is quite handsome, and much more relaxed than the SB navy blazer he cut for me in '84--presumably in keeping with the military heritage of the garment--though the blazer was equally elegant in its own line.
Andrey
Thank you for the kind words.uppercase wrote:I think Kent made you an excellent coat. I like the old fashion look and that it's cut relaxed and easy. Good job!
Yes, he does. Though when I visited them this month, they were *extremely* busy -- almost too busy for their own good. Customers kept flooding in.uppercase wrote:Is Kent taking new customers?
BTW, if you live in NY, they will visit this lovely city early May. Not sure on exact dates, though -- alas, I live in the land of uber-expensive italian RTW (also known as Moscow).
Yes, all three together under "Kent, Haste & Lachter" banner. There is a topic on this.uppercase wrote:I'm not up to date on Kent: does he work with Lachter and Terry Haste?
Andrey
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