Highest Quality Bespoke Ties

[culverwood]

Yes, in number 3, Clifford Street, W1. It is to open in the middle of May.

Milo

That's that the old Victor Arwas gallery. Pretty big shoes to fill!

[andreyb]

Funny thing is that one of Emma Willis girls will work in the new shop.

BTW, Drake's selection at EW is probably the most tasteful around... IMHO, selection at Anderson & Sheppard is much duller. But there is price for anything on Earth: 60GBP at A&S vs 95GBP at EW.

Andrey

[uppercase]

I believe it is well known that the RTW Marinella are indeed made by Drake's. Drake's RTW are readily found all over the map.
How do you tell a bespoke Rubinacci from a RTW Rubinacci tie? (sounds like the lead in to a joke)

Many years ago I would order ties from Bowring Arundel (London, S.R.). They had the silk samples and I would specify their default details (rather like MTM) or "exceptions" which I suppose corresponds to bespoke. It's not that well known, but with a significant surcharge, you can specify a few details from Drake's stock selections. I don't really think I would call that bespoke, more ike "one off."

Well, for me the only difference between Rubinacci bespoke and RTW was that I specified the length, internal construction and chose the silk. Nothing special. No paper patterns or any request for unusual shapes. In future, I would just go with RTW I think as I don't need a longer tie. Bespoke ties are just a nice little indulgence now and then. You can have your initials stitched on the tie if inclined.

BTW, if you visit your shirtmaker Bugelli again in Florence, ask him to introduce you to his friend, the tie maker. I don't recall the guys name but I did go to his workshop and had a half dozen or so ties made in quick order. A nice experience to actually watch ties being made, see a huge selection of silks and finally just see how prosaic these little Italian workshops really are. This one was hidden away on the ground floor of a little apartment block on the outskirts of Florence. From the outside, you'd never guess that there was a pretty big tie making operation going on there.

[tteplitzmd]

I think MTM is really what we're talking about for ties. That's OK with me. I can't remember the reason Bowring Arundel stopped the special made to order ties.

No one mentions Tiecrafters in New York: I've had numerous ties altered, made wider, more narrow, etc. Sort of an aftermarket made to order tie.

[alden]

Well, for me the only difference between Rubinacci bespoke and RTW was that I specified the length, internal construction and chose the silk. Nothing special. No paper patterns or any request for unusual shapes.

A few paper patterns were made for my Charvet, Marinella and Lanvin bespoke ties. The shape of the tie, its width and the interlinings selected determine the knot size. And this can be dialed in with precision, if one chooses, though it is hardly necessary. I would have to call this process true bespoke as opposed to a special order or MTM tie.

UC I also visited our Florentine friend and had quite a few things made. Lest we forget that in addition to the five or six excellent makers mentioned in this post, there are legions of small workshops dotting the Italian peninsula where truly great works can be found....stay tuned!

Cheers

Michael

[uppercase]

Funny thing is that one of Emma Willis girls will work in the new shop.

BTW, Drake's selection at EW is probably the most tasteful around... IMHO, selection at Anderson & Sheppard is much duller. But there is price for anything on Earth: 60GBP at A&S vs 95GBP at EW.

Andrey

Are the ties in these stores sold under the "Drakes" name?

Do you know what other London stores carry Drakes-made ties?

Anyway....I'll be very interested to see the new Drakes retail store!

[tteplitzmd]

I believe Selfridge's amongst others sell Drakes. They are all over NYC: Paul Stuart, Barney's, Davide Cenci. Generally there's the tell tale MD on the content/cleaning tag.
More challenging is: Marinella for Beretta, tagged "made in Italy," but no MD (which always say Made in England). My advice is to check out Davide Cenci (NY, Milan, Rome) during the regular sale cycles, when the ties are generally 50% off.

[andreyb]

Are the ties in these stores sold under the "Drakes" name?

No, "Emma Willis" label in EW store and "Anderson & Sheppard" in A&S. As Terry said, the tell-tale sign is "MD" on the cleaning label sown in the narrow end. Also, A&S staff made no secret that many (but not all) of their ties are made by Drake's. They are willing to point which ones.

As for other stores... Well, at least some of the ties sold in Kent Haste & Lachter shop are made by Drake's. Stephen Lachter says "we [meaning Savile Row ateliers] all use Drake's".

Andrey

[David Hober]

Well, for me the only difference between Rubinacci bespoke and RTW was that I specified the length, internal construction and chose the silk. Nothing special. No paper patterns or any request for unusual shapes.

A few paper patterns were made for my Charvet, Marinella and Lanvin bespoke ties. The shape of the tie, its width and the interlinings selected determine the knot size. And this can be dialed in with precision, if one chooses, though it is hardly necessary. I would have to call this process true bespoke as opposed to a special order or MTM tie.
...... Cheers Michael

Michael,

I agree with your description of a bespoke/custom made tie. Although I would add to it:

The most important part of a bespoke tie is the listening process. What is requested is not always what is wanted and it is the tie makers job to listen and make suggestions.

It is very rare that a client will know what interlining will work best and subjective descriptions of how a client feels the finished tie should be often work best.

A bespoke tie with few changes (if any) from classic sizes/shapes will still 99% of the time be better than a ready made tie, as the care that is put into making a true hand crafted tie takes a great deal of time. And the quality control is much better with a bespoke tie.


Gentlemen,

Thank you for all the kind words in this thread.

I remember enjoying a talk with Michael on the telephone about ties around 5 years ago and he mentioned having walked through the Charvet fabric room and seeing many beautiful fabrics and reading on this website of Charvet's wonderful bow ties.

[Marcodalondra]

I believe it is well known that the RTW Marinella are indeed made by Drake's. Drake's RTW are readily found all over the map.
How do you tell a bespoke Rubinacci from a RTW Rubinacci tie? (sounds like the lead in to a joke)

Many years ago I would order ties from Bowring Arundel (London, S.R.). They had the silk samples and I would specify their default details (rather like MTM) or "exceptions" which I suppose corresponds to bespoke. It's not that well known, but with a significant surcharge, you can specify a few details from Drake's stock selections. I don't really think I would call that bespoke, more ike "one off."

Marinella is known to buy English silk printed on commission fo them, but all production is on workshops and seamstress homes in Naples......

I do not know where you get this info and the promote it as well known....

The rtw marinella's made front and back with the same fabric are on a different level then the different inside lining (mainly stripes type)

[Scot]

Huntsman's ties are also made by Drake.

When I was last in Emma Willis they were a little worried about the opening of the Drake store. However, EW ties are 9 cm, which I certainly prefer. The assistant also said that Drake would continue to make some EW ties in the heavier weight silk and would not sell these under their own label. EW ties are generally the best I have had (including bespoke Drake), a pity they don't stock any madder.

[tteplitzmd]

I believe it is well known that the RTW Marinella are indeed made by Drake's. Drake's RTW are readily found all over the map.
How do you tell a bespoke Rubinacci from a RTW Rubinacci tie? (sounds like the lead in to a joke)

Many years ago I would order ties from Bowring Arundel (London, S.R.). They had the silk samples and I would specify their default details (rather like MTM) or "exceptions" which I suppose corresponds to bespoke. It's not that well known, but with a significant surcharge, you can specify a few details from Drake's stock selections. I don't really think I would call that bespoke, more ike "one off."

Marinella is known to buy English silk printed on commission fo them, but all production is on workshops and seamstress homes in Naples......

I do not know where you get this info and the promote it as well known....

The rtw marinella's made front and back with the same fabric are on a different level then the different inside lining (mainly stripes type)

I am happy to be corrected or educated on this matter. Perhaps Drake or Marinella would care to comment?

[Marcodalondra]

Marinella's ties ARE made in Naples. They may use English silk but the tie is folded and sew in Naples and the product is clearly marked as Made in Italy, this is a fact not an Internet legend.

[mkirkhope]

From the original list I have only had a bespoke tie from Sam Hober but I can highly recommend them. The customer service is outstanding and the craftmanship and quality of the tie is equally as good. David takes a real interest in giving you advice and making sure the tie is perfect for your size etc. You can also supply your own fabric and let them know what fold you want etc.

[bond_and_beyond]

I visited the Drake's store this weekend and it is indeed very nice. Picked up, among others, a beautiful blue raw silk tie.

Only thing is that their selection could have been even better. The amount of ties available in the store seemed to be far less than for example what is available in Turnbull's Jermyn st store.

S