Overcoat idea - opinions please!

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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mrbrel
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Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:50 am

Morning Gentlemen,

For some time I've been thinking of getting a bespoke overcoat made to serve as both casual and business wear, and would love to hear your opinions on something I stumbled across which may fit the bill [Image attached.]
http://www.yesstyle.com/en/city-and-the ... 1023976441

It looks too cheap to be well made so I'm thinking of taking the photo and having a replica done in Charcoal Grey wool/cashmere with a few alterations. However, I've some concerns.

-It may not be classic enough for London business wear.
-The lapels may come too low for it to be practically warm.
-Adding some length will upset the balance (it seems to be designed as a very short coat)

There seems to be a great wealth of knowledge on this forum so any input would be hugely appreciated.

Finally, I was thinking of going to George in Cleveland Street for the construction (budget is max £700). If anyone knows how open he may be to accepting such work, it would be very useful to know!

Very many thanks.

Phil
Noble Savage
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Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:39 pm

Depends on your geography. In may be too open to wear in cold weather.
Costi
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Sat Mar 26, 2011 1:02 pm

Welcome on board, mrbrel!

Here is your single breasted peak lapel charcoal overcoat for the City:

Image

Courtesy of Sir Anthony Eden.
Note the proper buttoning point (not too low), so the coat actually provides some warmth over the chest and looks balanced.

However, this model is not as versatile as its double breasted cousin:

Image
Made in a gray herringbone (or heavy flannel!), this one can easily take you from country to town, through business and casual (elegant) dress.
mrbrel
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Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:33 pm

Thanks for the welcome and responses!

There's something very appealing about peaked lapels - the Eden coat looks great. I am however hoping for a slightly more youthful cut (I'm 24, trainee accountant) whilst maintaining some formality.

Assuming warmth were not an issue, would shorting and lowering/thinning the lapels necessarily upset the balance so much? I'm starting to realise how tricky this may be without a tailor who can visualise what I'm getting at.

Also, are covered buttons always preferable for a SB overcoat?

Thanks once again!
Costi
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Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:58 pm

The youthfulness is in your eyes at 24, and in the way you wear your clothes :) Of course you can have narrower lapels if your frame calls for it, but going too low with the buttons upsets the balance of the coat. A short coat with 3 buttons of which the topmost is at the waistline (as in the picture you posted) gives the impression of an overly long torso and does not dress well in my opinion. Otherwise, the Eden cut looks pretty youthful to me, if you have a similar frame. The overcoat needn't necessarily have a fly front, the buttons can show through if you prefer. However, a SB peak lapel overcoat suggests a higher degree of formality, so the fly front makes more sense.
Another versatile alternative is a simple Chesterfield with notch lapels. You can dispense with the front fly if you prefer.
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