Vanishing gems of London

[st.tully]

Indeed, Wilton's is a fine establishment with excellent service - although it is damned expensive. I have enjoyed a few lunches there and remember one in 2006 that lasted four hours - glorious!! Pre-smoking ban so we enjoyed fine Havanas and generally enjoyed ourselves to the limit. Green's, around the corner, has fallen off my radar - perhaps because of a wonderful first date that turned into dreadful affair - I will poke my head in next month for the fish, chips, mushy peas and house champers pursuant to NJS's recommendation.

Although I cannot speak as a consummate "clubman", I do enjoy the service at the East India Club. The staff is quite friendly if you are sitting at the club table - where the banter is rather free - if you are at a regular table, the service is very proper without any excess communication. I reckon the staff is given some instruction in this regard. Certainly nothing close to the service at The Grill at the Connaught from years past but still lovely and appreciated.

Many many years ago I lodged at Brown's Hotel and remember the tea service as being somewhat special - perhaps the first time I was turned away for not having a tie - I was 10 years old - I returned to do great damage to the sweets (and my mother nicked the creamer). Maybe the statue of limitations has run and I should revisit the scene of the crimes.

[Scot]

Stories of the demise of the Connaught are over stated. I have just returned froma two night stay and I have to say that, having read these accounts of doom and gloom, I was delighted by the quality of the service. Yes the hotel has changed but it retains a great deal of charm. I certainly remember staying in rooms five or six years ago that were desperately tired and in need of attention. They have had it and are much better for it. And the idea that one can only stay there for $1000 a night is nonesense. Food and drink, though, is expensive; but no more so than other establishments in Mayfair, whose prices now seem to be aimed exclusively at Russian oligarchs. When the hotel closed for refurbishment I began making the rounds of other 5-star hotels in London but found none to match the Connaught. I retain that view. I hear one has to queue to get in the American bar at the Savoy!

[tteplitzmd]

Stories of the demise of the Connaught are over stated. I have just returned froma two night stay and I have to say that, having read these accounts of doom and gloom, I was delighted by the quality of the service. Yes the hotel has changed but it retains a great deal of charm. I certainly remember staying in rooms five or six years ago that were desperately tired and in need of attention. They have had it and are much better for it. And the idea that one can only stay there for $1000 a night is nonesense. Food and drink, though, is expensive; but no more so than other establishments in Mayfair, whose prices now seem to be aimed exclusively at Russian oligarchs. When the hotel closed for refurbishment I began making the rounds of other 5-star hotels in London but found none to match the Connaught. I retain that view. I hear one has to queue to get in the American bar at the Savoy!

Try pricing from any source including the hotel's own website for a stay the last week in May. Add the 20% VAT and the 5% "discretionary" service charge, and for the worst room in the house, it's going to run you $1000 per night. You'll get a concierge who knows London not quite as well as I do, a clueless front desk reception staff, and a spa without even a comb or slippers. My renovated room had lighting so poor you couldn't read a newspaper, an electrical outlet that was dead, a bathtub that wouldn't empty, etc. Actually, the place was so chaotic the last manager just quit, he couldn't take the brow beating from the Corp. Management. a careful review will show that the Connaught is priced above Claridge's and Berkeley (same owners), as well as Dorchester or the Ritz.

If they spent less on glossy promotional literature and more on training the staff it might work out better. The only reason to go back is the location.

[st.tully]

My first stay at the the Connaught coincided with the delivery of my first and only pair of bespoke Lobbs - Spring 1991. I lodged in a single room on the first or second floor such that I would take the front stairs rather than the lift. The room was delightfully equipped with the push button device for the "waiter", "valet", or "maid". I rang for the valet and asked him to scuff the soles of the Lobbs so that I wouldn't slip down the stairs - tipped him ten quid. The service during my stay was magical and memorable - maybe the Lobbs helped - but I think it had more to do with the attitude of the staff at the time - they were proud to be a part of the Connaught. A short time later, when I moved to London, I met Mr. Zago and was very impressed. From 1991-93 London was in a bit of a recession and the Connaught did a few special menus for lunch in the Grill, the service was absolutely impeccable and in my mind has set the standard for ever more. That and the vodka sours in the bar made with fresh egg white to give the extra fluff. Ahhh, good memories!!

[tteplitzmd]

Sadly st tully, those days are gone. I started going there in 1982. After Blackstone and then Maybourne bought the hotel, things decidedly changed.

[st.tully]

Thank you all for some great tips and suggestions. I am only one week away from the journey to London. I will have seven full days to explore and indulge. Of course visits to Poole and Budd are the centerpieces. Poole will hopefully have one suit finished and will be able to do a baste by Friday on a Monday commission. I'm thinking about visiting Richard Anderson for a tweed jacket - loved his book and have become enamored with those checked tweeds. Also, I see that Cleverley introduced a burgundy version of their Churchill shoe - so that might be calling out to me as well. I will give a report upon my return. In the meantime, if you have more suggestions for "must see/do" in London, please advise. THANKS!!

[AndyM]

I have not been in London since Patey opened their new shop so that will be my first port of call

Patey – London Shop
Patey (London) Ltd,
35 Connaught Street,
London, W2 2AZ
Telephone: 020 7706 7632 London@pateyhats.com

It may not be of interest to you, after all, my name is Andy and I am a hat-aholic.

[lxlloyd]

It's not vanishing, (rather, a recent opening) but since I have somewhat vanished from London...

I'm rather partial to a drink at the Experimental Cocktail Club here in Paris, for the intimate setting, well mixed cocktails and interesting company. They've just opened in Chinatown, London. If a discerning gentleman happens to stop by i'd be interested to know if this Parisian girl should stop by there with friends when she returns briefly home to London.

[culverwood]

In this weather the Boris bikes are a good way to get around and more racks are appearing all over the place.

[castiglione]

Very close to Mount Gardens there is this delight of older times called Richoux of the Picadilly fame on South Adley Street. The menu is the same. Do not expect old waiters with trembling hands but the setting is exquisite. I allowed myself to take a picture of the left wall close to me for I had the fortune to be seated in the tiny compartment to the right as you enter the place. Walls are covered with pale golden shantoung and the atmosphere is all that goes away when interior architects step in ready to show how clever they are. This is the story of my life. To see how revered and beautiful places lost the nobility that time gives to a well conceived space. Go while it is like this. And of course do not miss the carpet on the stairs to the gent´s (OOOOOPS, sorry)- I meant cloak room.
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/4968/richoux.jpg
PS.- Excellent onion gravy with your bangers too!

[castiglione]

And since we are in an elegiac mood another MIA is the bottle of whisky at Geo Trumper´s. Gone are the shots for free! I went to his place in Curzon St. for the customary lime soap and I had the surprise to see no whisky around. To top it all the clerk was a woman. She told me the house started to charge for the shots. The customers complained and the bottle went away. (Death knell, ton, ton, ton)

[Manself]

We should construct a list of LL-approved venues in London. It sadly won't be a long list, but it might be useful. One idea I'd put up for consideration is Bellamy's in Bruton Mews. It's not perfect but it's very good, and it feels civilized, which is very, very rare.

Has anyone recently eaten or stayed at The Goring hotel? That too may retain a semblance of civilization.

I'm also keen to visit 5 Hertford Street, the new club that's just been opened by Mark Birley's son Robin. It's intended to be all that was good about the Birley clubs in their heyday, although whether such a thing is possible in the 21st century must be a moot point.

[hectorm]

Has anyone recently eaten or stayed at The Goring hotel? That too may retain a semblance of civilization.

Manself, yes, one of few remaining civilized enclaves.
As I recently posted in a current thread on London venues initiated by Castiglione, IMO, the public access place, closest in ambiance and décor to a membership club, is The Goring´s bar/lounge. Deep leather Chester sofas, plush carpets, great paintings, wood paneled walls, a fireplace, very peaceful and excellent old fashioned service.
You may also smoke your cigar at the veranda overlooking the hotel´s private garden (a delight in itself, provided there is no public event going on there).

[Luca]

It's not vanishing, (rather, a recent opening) but since I have somewhat vanished from London...

I'm rather partial to a drink at the Experimental Cocktail Club here in Paris, for the intimate setting, well mixed cocktails and interesting company. They've just opened in Chinatown, London. If a discerning gentleman happens to stop by i'd be interested to know if this Parisian girl should stop by there with friends when she returns briefly home to London.

Definitely worth a visit but book well in advance (sic) to avoid disappointment. Similar story for Milk and Honey. Good places at teh Dorchester, if decidedly less fun crowd. In a rather different part of town, I highly, HIGHLY recommend the Worship Street Whistling Club. In Soho, donwstairs at Hix is also good for cocktails.

[lxlloyd]

It's not vanishing, (rather, a recent opening) but since I have somewhat vanished from London...

I'm rather partial to a drink at the Experimental Cocktail Club here in Paris, for the intimate setting, well mixed cocktails and interesting company. They've just opened in Chinatown, London. If a discerning gentleman happens to stop by i'd be interested to know if this Parisian girl should stop by there with friends when she returns briefly home to London.

Definitely worth a visit but book well in advance (sic) to avoid disappointment. Similar story for Milk and Honey. Good places at teh Dorchester, if decidedly less fun crowd. In a rather different part of town, I highly, HIGHLY recommend the Worship Street Whistling Club. In Soho, donwstairs at Hix is also good for cocktails.

Booking? that would imply that I know where i'm going to be in advance. Perhaps i'll stick to Paris, where I know I can happily waltz in at any time. When I'm in london I end up at the Cavalry and Guards club seeing relatives anyway.

I really should return to the home country soon. I've been to london once for two days in the last two years....

On the other hand, if anyone wants to know some gems of Paris, i'll be happy to help. Although my list will probably avoid most of the left bank (ugh. tourists)