Arms, cuffs and shoulders

[YoungLawyer]

Having had two bespoke commissions, and having worn them now for several months, I'm starting to notice the faults in them. The biggest fault on both my dress coat and my suit coat is that when I move, I think the sleeves ride up to become too short. I specifically asked for high armholes on both, and on the suit coat I certainly was successful. However, I'm not sure I asked for enough. It's no use the sleeves on both being perfect when my hands are by my sides, if I feel that they are too short in use. When dancing, for instance, the sleeves on the dress coat are half way up my forearms, which is very unsatisfactory, and the sides of the coat pull away from my torso, which also ruins the effect. Equally, if working at my desk, my suit coat sleeves ride up my forearm, I tend to think there is a mistake.

My question is really this - what does one have to ask one's tailor to ensure the sleeves are long enough at all times? I've noticed that in Edwardian pictures, the sleeve length tends to be generally longer, so that when the arms are by the man's side, the cuffs come to about the first joint of the thumb, rather than the wristbone. I suppose there are a lot of connected factors, such as the sleeve length underarm (which on mine seems to be only just over 3/4 the length of my overarm measurement, a high armhole, and presumably a whole range of other factors. This is also related to the sleeve length on my shirts, which I am certain is far too short. What do you all ask for?

[nicksally]

I have experienced this problem, and it seems to be driven by sleeve pitch. When standing, I have a very erect posture and the sleeves are set quite far back. This looks and feels fine until the arms are moved forward, typically when sitting. The result is there is little "spare" cloth at the front of the arm against the joint of the shoulder and the arm, which therefore becomes tight, pulling the cuff up the arm. Getting the pitch right to allow for this natural forward movement is essential, and, when done well, deals with the problem. My tailor tells me this is a very important consideration when
Itching the sleeves of chauffeurs!!!

[YoungLawyer]

Yes, I might have a similar problem. Although, logically, isn't the problem that the distance underarm and also from the back of the arm to the cuff is too short? Also, should one ask for the sleeves to be set at an angle to the side, as well as asking for them to be set slightly more foreward. Any help from the tailor members of this forum would be a great help.