The ideal smoking jacket

[carl browne]

I'm drawn to Rex Harrison's cardigan in a previous post; in fact I've been looking for one for several years with no luck. All the cardigans I see are short and ribbed at the bottom. Others have lapels. Harrison's has no lapels, falls straight and is as long as a sport-coat. Cary Grant wears one very similar in "The Grass Is Greener."

This kind of cardigan in black cashmere would be a perfect substitute for the smoking jacket.

C

[ay329]

Carl, I think the DB shawl silk robe/gown and the shawl collared (SB) cardigan are the remaining heirs to the smoking jacket. They are both comfortable and relaxing. But with guests over the home, I can see how the robe might be too informal...unless its a good friend(s)

Honestly, who here has been to a home where the gentleman of the house has worn a smoking jacket...say the last decade?

[BGE]

This is a good example of the bespoke slippery slope, the one that leads to the initiation of new and unforeseen projects.

Slippery slope indeed.

I had been contemplating about doing a practical interpretation of the smoking/dinner jacket for casual evenings when out and about with the fiance, or maybe just something to wear casually around the house. I really like the idea of preserving the dinner jacket's place in modern everyday use (must be the anachronistic side in me), but couldn't justify a practical use for it. But when I came across the Sotheby's photo of the Duke's some time ago, I found it quite inspiring.

My thoughts on the matter have evolved into a navy blue corduroy, shawl self-cloth lapels, jetted pockets, and double vents for practicality. No frogging, no cuffs, and maybe just a single button for the sleeve cuff.

Michael, I think your ideas of swelled edges and horn buttons to "humble it down" makes it that much easier to wear.

I really like the idea of doing double-breasted, but I've got a shawl db dinner jacket in the 4x1 configuration which works well for a semi-formal dinner suit—but I find the cut too much for something I'd use regularly, and in the context of where I live. For myself, I guess I'm just looking for an unassuming casual jacket with a sense of 'evening' to it that I can beat up and pair with jeans or flannels. It is likely that I'll also skip the bowtie.

Carl Browne, if it's any encouragement, I'm based in Toronto where dress is quite casual, and wearing such a coat at night will probably just go unnoticed.

I wasn't planning on taking this on for at least a few more tweed jackets, but after seeing this thread, it's now on this year's list of bespoke projects.

So many ideas, such little time

Cheers,

—B

[marcelo]

In the 50's one tried to reinvent the smoking jacket and gave it a preposterous name, to wit: the "television jacket". I simply fail to see the meaning of this: donning a smoking jacket to watch TV. It comes as no surprise that this new interpretation of that garment was no success at all. As for that picture of Rex Harrison, that's superb. I have always liked that scene: "let a woman in your life, and your serenity is through...", he sings in that magnific studio designed by Cecil Beaton.

[st.tully]

Over at the Suitable Wardrobe blog today, the author states "English custom reserves smoking jackets for wear at home or at one's club". Do those of you who frequent London's gentlemen's clubs ever see your fellow members wearing a smoking jacket?

[storeynicholas]

They're not usually worn in London clubs, because very few people live in them anymore. The thing about a smoking jacket is that it is just not the thing for wearing in the street or at an event calling for black tie evening dress outside the home. However, I could just about see there being justification for wearing a smoking jacket in the smoking room of one's club if one were actually staying there.

Just don't expect to be allowed to smoke in it.
NJS

[st.tully]

It is an awful shame that the great smoking rooms of St. James's are going to waste!!! Damned indignity to be forced to wander the streets after dinner with my cigar.

[storeynicholas]

Several places have been able to adapt terraces etc to provide smoking accommodation which is ventilated enough to satisfy the jobsworth-Tin-Hitlers who go around robotically enforcing the anti-smoking legislation. It's the employment of goons like these which should be first under the axe in times of economic straits but they seem to prefer to axe the real policemen first.

[Will]

I probably should have written "reserved" rather than "reserves" but I retain fond memories of smoking room cigars as recently as ten years ago.

[SMCK]

Young Lawyer, as St. Tully has pointed out and Will has replied to , A Suitably wardrobe ( the best clothes blog) does mention London clubs but it primarily mentions and shows picture of what seems to me to be a wonderful jacket, which could double as very smart stylish DJ or smoking jacket.
(I have seen people wear smoking jackets at fancy dress parties where the wearer is trying to give the impression of complying with the fancy dress requirement without looking too foolish in costume.)
Maybe Will could put up that picture here as I can't. I had not realised that I might covet a smoking jacket until I saw this. Perhaps I might close the quarters a little so as to obviate the necessity for a cumberbund which is a bit of a nuisance. A very elegant jacket indeed, thank you Will.

[radicaldog]

Comedy setting aside, what about this modern interpretation of the smoking jacket?



I have to say that I'm rather tempted by something of that sort, perhaps in dark green/grey corduroy. Camel seems like a nice idea, but the colour doesn't say 'evening' to me. Zegna's thin wale corduroy in cashmere and cotton could work. Or even something more rustic. Oh, and I'd skip the Blackadder heraldic emblem!

[alden]

I have to say that I'm rather tempted by something of that sort, perhaps in dark green/grey corduroy.

RD

I have been looking for the right shade of cord for awhile now to make that coat. It is a bit like Windsor's green cord DJ. The Zegna cash/cord is not bad option but the color choice is limited.

Michael

[radicaldog]

I have been looking for the right shade of cord for awhile now to make that coat. It is a bit like Windsor's green cord DJ. The Zegna cash/cord is not bad option but the color choice is limited.

Yes. I was also thinking of doing an updated version of Windsor's corduroy smoking jacket. The main differences would be the lack of grosgrain on the lapels and the lack of turnback cuffs, but I'd keep the lapel buttonholes -- Atkinson/Blackadder's coat above is a good starting point, I would've thought. What sort of cord do you think would be appropriate? I was thinking that the wale would have to be fairly thin. I haven't found a dark green/gray that I like enough though. One problem is that thin wale cord tends to be very light.

[alden]

The main differences would be the lack of grosgrain on the lapels and the lack of turnback cuffs, but I'd keep the lapel buttonholes -- Atkinson/Blackadder's coat above is a good starting point, I would've thought. What sort of cord do you think would be appropriate? I was thinking that the wale would have to be fairly thin. I haven't found a dark green/gray that I like enough though. One problem is that thin wale cord tends to be very light.

RD,

Yes that is pretty much what I am thinking of as well. It needs to be a thin wale cloth but since it will be worn primarily indoors, the relative lightness of the material is not much of a problem. It just needs to be of sufficient quality and the right color. I am looking for a light olive green....if you find one

Cheers

[radicaldog]

I'll surely let you know if I find something to my taste, Michael -- though I'm not immensely hopeful. Apart from Zegna most Italian tailors have Visconti di Modrone cord, which isn't great. And I've never seen an English one in a green that I liked enough.