Right fit of brand-new shoes

[Edward Bainbridge]

When I was looking for new shoes, the shop assistants gave me opposite answers concerning how a shoe should fit when I try it on in the store. First of all, some claimed if a shoe fits well, the lines of the eyelets should be "closed", that is parallel, while others insisted they should form a widely spreading V.

But the main problem for any but the softest leathers is that they're not broken in. One assistant says it's normal that there's some pressure here or the edge cuts into my flesh there - I just have to wear them for two weeks and they'll be perfect, and if I was to buy the next number, they'd be much too loose after a short time. The other assistant says I should feel comfortable in them right here and now, and he's never seen anyone who buys shoes that didn't fit in the shop and developed into comfortable ones after the customer broke them in.

I'm not talking about bespoke shoe makers, but, after all, about the London flagship stores of some good names in the business.

So, who's right, according to your experience and knowledge?

[culverwood]

I am sure there are others better able to answer than me but:

1 On Oxford type shoes the lacing should ideally be somewhere between the two extremes you mention. If the gap between both sided is zero the shoe may be too big width wise or the last made for a higher instep. If the V is too wide it will possibly become smaller in time but not by much the last was probably best suited to someone with a lower instep.

2 I would be in the camp that says if a shoe is uncomfortable when you put it on and stand up in it it will always be. It may take a while to wear in the heels when you walk in them but if it is too short or long or too wide or narrow it will not magically shape to your foot. It is for this reason that I am reluctant to but shoes off the web unless they are made to a last and size I know fits me.

[jb]

I am no expert, but I can tell you how RTW shoes fit me.

The various G&G lasts are the best fitting shoes that I have. The lacing area forms a "V", but not too extreme. When new, the shoe is actually tight feeling across my instep to the point of mild discomfort. I wear them around the house a couple of times for a few hours, then wear them for normal wear for less than a full day. After that, they have formed to my feet and feel light but supportive, and not tight.

Edward Greens fit similarly for me. I have a pair of captoes in a dark suede that have become almost looser feeling than I like because of the softness of the suede, even though they started out very tight.

I always try on shoes before purchasing, even in familiar lasts.

[Jordan Marc]

Edward:

Whether the shoes are factory-made or bespoke, they should fit properly. Keep in mind that both feet are seldom, if ever, the exact same size. Human beings are not symmetrical, so you may feel a slight pinch in one foot when buying ready-mades. Never wear a brand-new pair for more than an hour or two at a time, and never ever wear the same pair day after day. Break them in gradually. Get a good pair of wooden trees whenever you buy a pair of shoes, and always use a shoe horn when putting on those smart balmorals or brogues. Most importantly, polish new shoes as soon as you get them home. Google the following: http://www.whatmakesaman.net/2008/09/10-Classic English Shoemakers Part 4: Caring for benchmade leather shoes. This article discusses the proper care for shoes once you have bought them. What kind of shoe care products should you use? The best you can afford. Some like Saphir conditioners and creams and wax products, which can be ordered online from Valmour, Fr. Others like Meltonian or Kiwi, depending upon availability. Keep a supply of worn out cotton T-shirts on hand, which are dandy for applying polishes of one kind or another. And don't forget to lay in a good supply of shoe laces keyed to the color of your shoes.

JMB

[Edward Bainbridge]

Thanks for all the advice! I'm actually doing already some of the things.

(Another tip might be: first thing you do when you bought shoes, throw away the stupid round laces and put in decent ones, but I concede this is a matter of personal preference, mostly.)

Concerning the fit before break-in, is the general opinion here that my hunch is right that if I feel more than a slight pinch here or there, I should look for other shoes or a larger size? Nearly all assistants claimed differently but weren't able to tell me which shoes will fit me eventually, eg by touching through the shoes where my foot starts and ends.

[Jordan Marc]

Edward:

There is nothing 'stupid' about round laces, per se, but there are some badly made round laces on the market that are manufactured in Asia. Avoid round laces that stretch. Good round laces worth your consideration include waxed round for dress shoes made of leather, unwaxed round laces for leather oxfords suitable for city wear as well as casuals, and round braided laces for suede shoes. The latter are typically keyed to the color of the buckskin unless you prefer contrasting colored laces. Example,
Fred Astair would lace his dark brown suede tie-ups with beige braided laces. It drew the eyes of the audience to his fancy footwork in the same way that his use of colorful hosiery did. Often copied but never equalled by others who simply aren't as fleet of foot.

Flat laces of, say, black or midnight blue silk are particularly handsome on patent leather evening shoes. Their cloth counterparts are useful for athletic shoes, I suppose, but have no style. Not even
for kiddie shoes. Why parents and addle-brained grandparents think tiny sneakers emblazoned with
stars and Dumbo are the nuts for tiny tots is beyond comprehension. If you dress a kid as an idiot,
he will become an idiot.

The idea of a shoe salesman pressing the toe cap of a shoe to determine if it fits you properly is ludicrous. Have him lace up the shoes, then stand up and walk around the shop. You'll know if they
fit or not.


JMB

[ay329]

I have transitioned away from RTW lace ups due to fit issues caused by my high instep and by fit issues brought up by the OP of this thread

I have found side gussetted and monk strap shoes to be better fitting in general

Thus I mix and match some bespoke shoes from Clifford Roberts, and have G&G and my Budapest shoemaker use a fitter on top of their RTW/MTO lasts to better accomodate my high instep

A side gussetted shoe coupled with imitation lacing on a classic design is the way to go

[Edward Bainbridge]

There is nothing 'stupid' about round laces, per se

I absolutely agree - what I meant was really the slippery variety.

[Edward Bainbridge]

I'm drifting away here from my own topic, but: given that classic gentlemen's footwear has changed even less than suits have, I find it sometimes startling how wide the shoelaces are in some pre-war illustrations. The city toe-cap or country brogue itself looks like one today, but has an extravagant bow on top.