Four pairs of gray trousers

[st.tully]

Greetings all -

The blue blazer is a staple of my wardrobe. Accordingly, my next Henry Poole commission will be a navy blazer in the JJ Minnis "Original Fresco" #0533. Although this is a heavier weight fresco, I believe it will work year round or at least ten months here in the southeastern United States.

I'd like to commission four pairs of gray trousers along with the blazer. I'd like four different gray fabrics in varying weights and finishes to carry the blazer through the seasons. A staple of all the trouser fabrics should be durability and the fewer wrinkles the better. Please could I have your collective thoughts and suggestions?

Many thanks, st.tully

[alden]

St Tully

Interesting question. I think that travel cloth like Brisa or Fresco looks best paired with travel cloth like Brisa or Fresco. Its a bit like linen, that can be worn with other materials, but always looks best paired with linen.

The next twist (sorry) will be matching the weave of the travel cloth. Each weave is a bit different, more open, more rustic, more fine in these fabrics. So you would be advised to use the same weave as the coat, in this case the same Minnis fresco as follows: 1 light gray, 2 mid gray, 1 dark gray. You can skip the dark gray and get two light grays and two mediums if you avoid wearing a blazer in the evenings (as you should.) Brown (preferably oxford) shoes always for each of the above.

Cheers

Michael

[Concordia]

To some degree this depends on exactly how often you'll be wearing this. If every day (or every other day), then woollen flannels are not your first choice. You'll want 2 pairs of the same thing for summer, and 2 pairs for the rest of the year. Worsted very light weight and mid-weight would be your first choice there. You could do each in mid grey and charcoal, to cover the day to evening transition.

If it's more of a weekend thing, you could get 4 different pairs, to cover different seasons and times of day. (Mid-grey can look really too bright at night.) So a 9oz Fresco, a 10oz from Lesser, an 11oz flannel, and something heavy for winter. Smith's flannel book is astoundingly beautiful, if less useful than many worsteds.

Anyway, the fresco books will have useful choices, the Brisa is even better for 3-season wear. You'll lose the summer in that, and might want something else for the dead of winter, but it covers a lot of ground otherwise.

Other options-- some light-weight worsted flannels, maybe 11oz. Minnis has those, also Lesser.

If you want something for the snows that can comfortably stick out from under your overcoat, Smith's Whole Fleece is tempting. I haven't had any of those, but might for next winter. They have 3 shades, which will cover 75% of your needs for solid grey.

[Will]

Smith's Whole Fleece is tempting. I haven't had any of those, but might for next winter. They have 3 shades, which will cover 75% of your needs for solid grey.

I am told that the mid gray is no more unfortunately.

[alden]

The light gray, mid gray and navy are no longer available. And worse, they will not be made again. There is some dark gray left for now.

Michael

[Costi]

The blazer is a day coat and looks best paired with medium or lighter shades of trousers. To me, the aesthetic of the blazer relies on contrast. If you need darker colours for the evening, forget the blazer rather than pair it with dark gray trousers - the combination tends to look sad in my opinion.

[Gruto]

I think a darker blue blazer with dark grey trousers can be a pleasing combination. It is a kind of an informal dark suit:

[Costi]

It is a kind of an informal dark suit

That is precisely what I hold against it, Gruto... To my eye, the blazer looks better with lighter trousers and a dark suit looks better than a blazer worn with dark gray trousers. This combination is in-between and it says nothing to me except perhaps "I didn't pack an evening suit" - which is an excuse rather than a style statement.

[Concordia]

Perhaps depends on where you are. I have a few midnight blue soft jackets (not blazers) that I'd wear with trousers the color of Mr Bond's, or even half a shade darker. Add mocha suede plain-toes, and you get something that works at the symphony while not looking overly crisp.

[Costi]

Perhaps depends on where you are. I have a few midnight blue soft jackets (not blazers) that I'd wear with trousers the color of Mr Bond's, or even half a shade darker. Add mocha suede plain-toes, and you get something that works at the symphony while not looking overly crisp.

Well, if it played Mahler No. 6, maybe...
To my eye, the beauty and gist of the odd jacket and trousers combination is contrast. It needn't necessarily be a stark one - I could easily envision light shades mixed together harmoniously for summerwear, but dark shades worn together tend to make a gloomy look: in this case I think a suit is better.
What does this combination say? - "I know I should wear dark colours in the evening, but you might think I look too stuffy in a suit"; is this a serious style proposition? The formality of the colours conflicts with the informality of the odd coat and trousers pairing - it's a clash that remains unresolved.
A dark suit, on the other hand, is the perfect frame for a shirt and tie combination that says "symphony" rather than "funeral". And a dark blue blazer worn with a lighter shade of gray trousers is perfect for an off-season afternoon symphony

[rodes]

My advice would be one medium gray,one pale gray,one gray Prince of Wales check,one heavy cotton twill in cream color. I would steer clear of the dark gray, which to my eye, looks a bit gloomy. The photo above reinforces my point; the beautiful girl is not interested in Bond. We cannot have that.

[Gruto]

The photo above reinforces my point; the beautiful girl is not interested in Bond. We cannot have that.

To my eye, the beauty and gist of the odd jacket and trousers combination is contrast.

I am not happy with that rule, Costi. I agree that contrast is important in an odd jacket dress, but there is more than STARK contrast. The subtle, yet distinct difference between two cold colours like darkblue and darkgrey can be pleasing, in my opinion. Two brown colours, on the other hand, need more visible clash. Also we shouldn't forget contrast that comes from different textures (and patterns).

[Costi]

The subtle, yet distinct difference between two cold colours like darkblue and darkgrey can be pleasing, in my opinion.

Perhaps it's too subtle for me...

Bruni is showing us what the secretary would expect of Bond... at the darkest:


These gents don't look unrefined, either:


But if he had a bit of contrast between trousers and coat to add interest to his dress...

...you probably wouldn't even notice his coat is misbuttoned

[Slewfoot]

I feel that if a navy blazer and dark gray trousers are to be paired together the fit must be flawless as in the case of Mr. Bond. It is not a look I normally wear, but I can appreciate it if done right. If not, it unfortunately falls into that realm of a look that has been used and abused by so many unsophisticated dressers from frat boys to security guards.

[lgcintra]

I could´t agree more with Costi on this. A navy blue paired with dark gray trousers at night seems almost the same colour. In my humble opinion, there should be a little more contrast. In addition to middle gray, I do have dark gray trousers which I only pair with a navy jacket in coordination with brown brogues, brown belt and a tie with brown tints. This way I add a little more contrast. But at night no-one (especially I, the main interested party) would notice, so I would pick middle gray trousers with oxblood/bordeaux brogues. I do not own suede brogues, unfortunately.

I have a question on this. I think a suit would be too formal to substitute for navy blazer/gray trousers in evening informal events, even if I use it without a tie - such as the Italians sometimes do. Could I substitute this ensemble for the stroller? Notwithstanding formality arguments/restrictions, it is an odd [double-breasted] jacket paired with patterned gray trousers, isn´t it? It would look less formal than a suit and tie and it would not look like I went directly from the office to the event stripped of the necktie.