Trouser rise

[PaleMorningDun]

I am looking for information and I hope I have come to the right place.

I have a rather long torso and short legs (just like my father), although I am of average height. As a consequence, off-the-rack trousers usually fit too low on my waist. I am thinking of having some bespoke trousers made and I am wondering what most people consider to be a regular rise (and where exactly they measure it from) and what I high-rise would be. I know, what feels and looks best is right, but I am trying to find some general guidelines here.

I must confess, as a result with this problem, I have become obsessed with the fit of trousers during the 1920's, when men wore them sitting at the natural waist, often with braces, falling in long, elegant lines, often pleated, down to the cuff, giving the impression of height and length. How high a rise can one wear without looking like a retiree in Florida, wearing one's trousers under one's armpits?

If you specify a rise, please indicate whether you wear the trousers with a belt or braces.

Thank you.

Paul

[Jordan Marc]

Paul:

Wear your trousers on your natural waist, not on your hips. Have them made with brace buttons as well as self-fabric side adjusters with buckles. If you have prominent calves, which curve backward, any good tailor will take that into account and cut your pattern to compensate for the bow of your calves.
While some men are short-waisted, others are long-waisted. Although you may not be able to figure
out where your natural waist is, your tailor will have no trouble finding it at all. Bring a couple of pairs
of shoes, preferably different styles (lace-ups and slip-ons), for your first fitting so the tailor can
establish the proper length for your trousers. Leave the sneakers at home. A final thought. It's a good
idea to have two matching pairs of trousers made, if you can afford it. A pair and a spare.

JMB

[J.S. Groot]

I have the same issue as you, although my tailor says he can't see it. As JMB says, if you go to a tailor, it is not really necessary to specify your rise in inches: They should sit on your waist (I like mine high on the waist, that is, just where the ribs end). Show where you want them to sit and your tailor should take care of the measuring.

When buying off the rack trousers (eg. for odd casual trousers), it is nice, however, to have an idea of how high a rise you want. In that way, it's easier to determine if a pair might fit you from looking at measurements. For me 12" will sit more or less where I want it and thus that's what I consider high rise. Anything below 12", I'd consider medium and anything below 10" I don't deal with. It relates, of course, to your overall height. I'm 5'6".

Cheers."