Six Days in London

[st.tully]

I just returned from a wonderful sartorial week in London. I bit cloudy and wet on the weather but success all around for clothing.

On Monday, I was anxious to see if there was anything left of the sales. I figured the inventory would be fairly picked over since two weeks had elapsed since Boxing Day. First, I went to Cleverley in hopes one of the Anthony models would be left in my size. BINGO!! Two pairs reduced 50%: "Fairbanks" and "De Givenchy". Fortunately, the Anthony last fits me exceptionally well. I have one pair of Lobb bespoke and the comfort is just the same as the Cleverley Anthony. One day I'd like to commission a Cleverley bespoke but in the near future I have too many wardrobe basics to address. The rest of Monday I strolled around Jermyn Street and browsed. Seeing that all the sales were till going and inventory ample, I decided to carefully consider my next purchase.

On Tuesday, I had the baste fitting of my first Henry Poole suit. At this point the suit was a bit large - especially the trousers - but the details and fabric were pleasing. I had chosen a Lesser blue herringbone in 13oz and it really makes-up wonderfully. After a bit of pinning, the suit's shape looked great. The rest of Tuesday was devoted to work.

Wednesday would be shirts. Last year I bought a few RTW shirts from Budd and have really enjoyed them. Budd shirts tend to be understated as opposed to Turnbull. I also like the staff at Budd immensely - Mr. Rowley is a charming man. We discussed bespoke and having examined the fit of my RTW Budd that I had worn at least twenty times, Mr. Rowley pronounced that the fit of a bespoke Budd would be very near the RTW except for the shoulder seam - of course, I'd have a greater variety of fabrics. Budd's stock cut is FULL and that is just fine for me - I'd say there is at least an addition two inches of girth in the body of a Budd shirt as opposed to Turnbull and the Budd sleaves are about 3/4 inch shorter than the Turnbull. I selected a half dozen RTW Budd. Since the this cost significantly less than I had budgeted for bespoke Budd, I bought a sumptuous pair of unlined Budd gloves made from hog skin - these are the softest gloves I can imagine. Budd is a wonderful little shop. I doubt it has changed much since it opened 100 years ago in the very location it is today. I hope it will remain the same for another 100 years. However, I did learn that Huntsman bought Budd a few months ago and there will be some changes on the horizon such as a website.

Thursday the search was on for a new leather case. I wanted something like the SAB Salisbury, a zip around case, retractable handles, and an external newspaper pocket. I figured SAB was going to have the best example along with the highest price, so I went there first. The Salisbury case was very nice and they had four colors from which to choose and they had a sale reduction of 10%. I almost bought it, but figured I browse around a few other places - maybe look in a vintage shop. I went to Pickett and some of the other arcade shops that carry leather goods. I discovered that the shop where I had bought several cases, bags and smalls back twenty years ago, WH Gidden, had years ago ceased and been absorbed by the bootmaker Schnieder. I enjoyed a long lunch with a friend at Wilton's - I really miss the days when you could smoke a cigar in the restaurant after a great meal. Feeling a bit melancholy without the pleasure of my cigar, I opted to look for another pair of shoes rather than going back to SAB and buying the nice but uninspiring Salisbury. I went to Foster's. And low and behold!!! They had THE CASE - similar in design to the Salisbury but a bit larger and most definitely of a higher quality. The leather thicker, the lock sturdier, the color richer (between SAB's London tan and chestnut), the interior better fitted out - and 200 pounds less expensive than SAB. Bought it on the spot - and would have done so had it been 200 more than the SAB. At dinner later that night, I treated myself to a half bottle of Taittinger champagne to celebrate.

Friday, back to Henry Poole for the forward fitting. All was great. They had significantly recut the trousers and the fit was very good. I particularly liked the balance of the whole suit - they really nailed the correct jacket length, gorge, lapel width. The pitch of the sleeves was off but the sleeves had not yet been properly installed. The finished suit will be done in February when they next travel to the States. I spent the next hour or so perusing fabrics for my next commission. I'd like a blue blazer in a sturdy fresco and four pairs of gray trousers - in various shades and weights. The blue blazer is a cornerstone of my wardrobe and I'd like a "perfect" example. After Poole, I had a meeting with some barristers down at one of the Inns. We broke-up just in time for me to drop by Ede and Ravenscroft in Chancery Lane to buy a fews ties with legal motifs, etc.

Saturday was for whimsy, a smoking jacket. Of course I'd love to have one from Poole in their silk blue velvet, but a bespoke blue blazer has to come before that. Jermyn Street and the arcades are replete with smoking jackets of all sorts. Although I love the look of frogging, the most wearable jacket I found was at Turnbull's - shawl collar, wrap around and belted, perhaps a bit longer than a jacket but not a robe, blue cotton velvet and expensive - over 1000 pounds. I must confess to a bit of a love hate relationship with Turnbull. Often I love to wear their over the top stripe shirts and coordinated ties, but I hate shopping there because the staff is often less than friendly. I suppose they get so much tourist traffic in the shop - especially at sale time - the staff are off-putting out of necessity. Although, one would think when a fellow wearing a Turnbull shirt and tie does come into the Turnbull shop the staff would be just a wee bit more friendly. At any rate, I passed on the Turnbull smoking jacket and instead went back to Budd and discussed a bespoke smoking robe - I'm thinking this might be a good Christmas project and will be researching and ponder the idea the next few months. For the sake of investigation, I did purchase a Budd robe in a dark blue W.Bill wool with red piping.

Well, that is the extent of my adventure, other than a few bits at DR Harris and some travel slippers from Church's. I have learned so much from this Forum and indeed all of my London adventure was more informed and productive by virtue of reading the collective wisdom herein. Many many thanks.

[andreyb]

However, I did learn that Huntsman bought Budd a few months ago and there will be some changes on the horizon such as a website.

Very interesting news.

I wonder what will happen with Huntsman's own bespoke shirtmaking offering (running at 200 GBP a shirt and done by Sean O'Flynn)?

Andrey

[alden]

St Tully

A great report and a fun read. Well done.

Cheers

Michael

[jlazarow]

However, I did learn that Huntsman bought Budd a few months ago and there will be some changes on the horizon such as a website.

Very interesting news.

I wonder what will happen with Huntsman's own bespoke shirtmaking offering (running at 200 GBP a shirt and done by Sean O'Flynn)?

Andrey

That will is very interesting news! Huntsman does my shirts, now (I use to wear RTW from T & A and had a failed bespoke run with T & A so I moved on), so I would like to learn more about this. Next time I talk to Peter Smith at Huntsman I will be sure to ask him. I really do like the shirts that Sean does and I would hope that he continues to be involved with my shirts.

[Scot]

However, I did learn that Huntsman bought Budd a few months ago and there will be some changes on the horizon such as a website.

Very interesting news.

I wonder what will happen with Huntsman's own bespoke shirtmaking offering (running at 200 GBP a shirt and done by Sean O'Flynn)?

Andrey

That will is very interesting news! Huntsman does my shirts, now (I use to wear RTW from T & A and had a failed bespoke run with T & A so I moved on), so I would like to learn more about this. Next time I talk to Peter Smith at Huntsman I will be sure to ask him. I really do like the shirts that Sean does and I would hope that he continues to be involved with my shirts.

Why not go around the corner to Sackville Street and see Sean in person? Cutting out (pardon the pun) Huntsman may even save you a few pounds!

[jlazarow]

Why not go around the corner to Sackville Street and see Sean in person? Cutting out (pardon the pun) Huntsman may even save you a few pounds![/quote]

If I lived in London I would most likely do that. It really started a couple of years ago when after years of always wanting to afford a Huntsman tweed I could and ordered one. it happened to also be right around the last time I tried to have T & A make a bespoke shirt for me. Frustrated, I ordered the shirts and really loved them!

[medtech_expat]

This was certainly a very productive 6 days! Congratulations in particular on the 2 pairs of Anthony Cleverley. Your post has also inspired me to pop into Fosters for my very first time when in London next week.

Cheers,
Eddie

[jlazarow]

I forgot to say it sounds like you had a wonderful trip. I love London.

[Cufflink79]

Dear St. Tully:

Thanks for sharing your trip to London with us. What you described about your trip is exactly what I love to do when I travel to any city. Haven't been to London yet but hope to soon.

Interesting news indeed about Budd being acquired by Huntsman. From my readings about Budd there're very traditional and a web site is one of the things they didn't want to take on.

I do hope it works out well for them.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[jb]

I have been spending time in London regularly over the past year and it is a pleasure reading of your trip. I too, wander around Savile Row, but I am a totally happy Chris Despos customer so I haven't actually ventured into any of the tailoring establishments there. I did go into Scabal to plead for some more Silver Gander, but to no avail, and the gentleman there told me that the mill can't make it either.

On the other hand, there are shoes! Saks and Neiman Marcus in Chicago seem to have mostly given up on real shoes these days. Neimans only has completely forgettable designer stuff, while Saks has abandoned Edward Green completely and barely has enough JM Weston to say that they carry the line. What do they sell men who buy Kiton and Oxxford MTM?

Mayfair has enough alternatives to keep me going for a long time. I haven't decided whether to have shirts made there yet...

Cheers,
Joel

[Concordia]

What did happen with the Silver Gander? Not on their website anymore.

[jb]

Some time ago they announced that stock was low and they closed out the remainder. The gentleman in their store told me that people still make requests for it, but that they cannot make it again. I didn't get whether the mill does not have the capability any more, or that they judge that the price they would have to charge would make it uneconomic (Scabal does not seem overly concerned by price though).

Does anyone here know anything further?