The ideal smoking jacket

[old henry]

Young Lawyer , that purple is a bit much isnt it ? Also .. Michael , what do you mean by a "quarter stitch" ? Is that just inside where the seams lay ? And I would like to see this lining....... "Rustic" ..I like that word .. Rustic .

[fabrics]

Hi Michael,

The Duke's green DB jacket pairs with navy trousers. What would be a good choice for the trousers (color and material) to pair with the Duke version of camel/vicuna color DB smoking jacket? Should it have double vents?

And, are the Duke's smoking jacket sleeves cuffed? Which style of cuff?


Cheers,

[John H. Watson, M.D]

Here are some interesting pictures. Is this more or less what you have in mind, Young Lawyer?

Bottle Green SJ.jpg

Black.jpg

Burgundy.jpg

[alden]

The Duke's green DB jacket pairs with navy trousers. What would be a good choice for the trousers (color and material) to pair with the Duke version of camel/vicuna color DB smoking jacket? Should it have double vents?

And, are the Duke's smoking jacket sleeves cuffed? Which style of cuff?

You can wear just about any color or texture of trouser with a camel shade, all grays are great, shades of brown, cream, name it...

Double vents is a good idea.

The Duke''s sleeves have a 4 button closure, no cuff.

Michael

[alden]

I think the element of the smoking jacket that I'm most keen on is the quilted shawl lapels.

YL,

Have you tried on such a coat before with thickly quilted lapels? If not, you'll find out quickly what a puck felt like between the sticks of Gretzky and Hull in a life or death faceoff. They are a bit ungainly in a practical sense and not very comfortable to wear. Just a thought...

Michael

[alden]

Frank,

I meant a swelled edge (quarter stitch) for the lapels to give the "rustic" feel we both appreciate so much. If you have a chance read a bit about the Japanese concept called wabi sabi, it will ring a few bells and bring the idea into focus.

Cheers

Michael

"The meanings of wabi and sabi are very close. Wabi refers to that which is humble, simple, normal, and healthy, while sabi refers to elegant detachment and the rustic maturity that comes to something as it grows old. It is seen in the quiet loneliness of a garden in which the stones have become covered with moss or an old twig fence that seems to grow naturally from the ground. In the tearoom it is seen in the rusty tea kettle (sabi literally means rusty). The total effect of wabi and sabi is not gloominess or shabbiness, however, but one of peace and tranquillity. Today, the words wabi and sabi are usually used together, as part of a single concept, wabi-sabi. Koren (1994:59) says, "wabi-sabi refers to the delicate balance between the pleasure we get from things and the pleasure we get from freedom from things."

http://www.japaneseaesthetics.com/gpage3.html

[carl browne]

Interesting thread, but I can't think of any occasion that would call for a smoking jacket. Where do you plan to wear yours? I think they're wonderful but wouldn't know what to do with one.

And Old Henry, did you make the silk dressing gowns for Sulka as well? I have an old one, and it's a work of art.

C

[alden]

I think they're wonderful but wouldn't know what to do with one.

Smoking jacket: as old fashioned as the smoking room. Yet the idea is charming and very sensible. You bathe and change your cloths after a hard day's work. You wash your cares away and put on something loose. A sweater is no compliment to your wife; a dinner jacket itself is too formal. So you try a smoking jacket. This is usually in velvet, a stiff material, which often creaks when you move. It is not as comfortable as wool; and the jacket with silk facings weighs a ton!

Why not a blazer?
Better still to have dinner in bed.

From "ABC of Men's Fashion" by Hardy Amies

Or why not craft a more informal dinner coat made of a soft and comfortable cloth? That idea is more charming and seems more sensible.

Cheers

M Alden

[old henry]

And Old Henry, did you make the silk dressing gowns for Sulka as well? I have an old one, and it's a work of art.

Yes , Carl , I did make robes for A.Sulka. They had a little tailor shop on rt.17 . I worked and learned from the old master , Rocko. - Of course a Sicilian. He had a pet squirrel in and out the shop window. He fed him chestnuts.

[John H. Watson, M.D]

I would think the modern usage of a smoking jacket should be wider than serving as a common dressing gown to compliment your wife. Strolling in your estate (or flat in most cases) in a vicuna blend dressing gown might be even too grand for a Duke. I would very much doubt the Duke of Windsor wore his smoking jacket to have dinner in bed.

Anyhow, I would suppose the smoking jacket are still suitable at less formal dinner parties, perhaps at home, worn by the host or worn at the club smoking cigars or pipes with your boys. Sadly, due to the smoking ban in the UK, donning a smoking jacket at a club might seem a bit of an irony. Nonetheless, a smoking jacket would compliment well in a gentlemen's wardrobe.

[J.S. Groot]

He had a pet squirrel in and out the shop window. He fed him chestnuts.

Who fed who?

To me, the smoking jacket belongs in the past. It has an old world charm to it, yes, but I fail to see its place for reasons already mentioned. If one decide to have one made, I wager say it is from a love with the imagery it connotes rather than because it is actually useful.

The concept of a "home jacket" is quite appealing though. Something between a dressing gown and a normal suit jacket. Still, I think I would be satisfied enough with a comfy shawl collar cardigan.

[alden]

Still, I think I would be satisfied enough with a comfy shawl collar cardigan.

That is the idea, one step up from the comfy cardigan, a DB shawl in camelhair or cashmere; it could even be made with a buggy lining. (Note Rex Harrison's beautifully balanced shirt collar, a masterpiece.)


The traditional smoking jacket has a lot of exotic, oriental charm. If someone had the use for it I'd say full speed ahead.

Or maybe something like this:



Michael

[storeynicholas]

A Sulka, 1950s; silk jacquard and satin smoking suit (missing tasselled belt):

[ay329]

This quilted burgundy DB shawl jacket looks ideal.

But I can understand how the shawl collared wool/cashmere cardigan has replaced it...especially due to its comfort

[carl browne]

Anyhow, I would suppose the smoking jacket are still suitable at less formal dinner parties, perhaps at home, worn by the host or worn at the club smoking cigars or pipes with your boys. Sadly, due to the smoking ban in the UK, donning a smoking jacket at a club might seem a bit of an irony. Nonetheless, a smoking jacket would compliment well in a gentlemen's wardrobe.

Well, I really like the idea of the smoking jacket; I just wonder what version would work in casual So. Cal.

Perhaps a db in black velvet or corduroy, with peak lapels, jetted pockets and horn buttons. Might have to pass on the turn-back cuffs, grosgrain facings, and frogging.

How would you wear your smoking jacket? With black tie and trousers? Or dressed down with grey flannels or even jeans?

A shame about the UK smoking ban; here in California we're far "ahead" of you in that respect.