Advice needed re: green tattersall jacket?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Rowly
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Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:23 pm

I am interested in a dark green tattersall checked jacket. I want it to have a finish and hand which is refined and more Urbe than Rus and with dressy muted colours. The closest I have seen, pattern wise, is in the Hardy Alsport selection, ( 2407-19oz ; 2416-19oz ; and 9937-17oz ).
My problem is that I have no experience of these cloths and need guidance. I don't want heavy thorn proof rough cloth, but something with a more luxury feel. Should I be looking at tweeds, or perhaps lambswool, Saxony or other city jacketing? What would be a good weight? What books should I be looking at? Any advice appreciated , as always.
Thanks, Rowly
Frog in Suit
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Sat Jan 15, 2011 11:45 pm

I like the Allsport book, or what I know of it:
I have a 1984 jacket (reference unknown, might not even exist anymore) in green twill with a faint dark red (?) overcheck and some blue and other colours mixed in, a three piece SB suit in a Lovat green herringbone (actually more brown than green, but it depends on the light) from 1985 or so, and a three-piece SB suit (1991?) in a houndstooth similar to this (http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jgh&c=2&p=2#thumb) but more vivid (beige background and orange overcheck).
I have in the making a three piece SB in reference 2432 (black and white herringbone: http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jgh&c=2&p=4#thumb ).
Those cloths are all lovely, traditional, and will last forever (My first jacket is just acquiring its final ideal sagginess after all this time :P ). They are tough and, in the fullness of time, will mould to your body shape, especially after being in the rain a few times :D . I chose the last one because the colours (B & W) give a final effect of a discreet salt and pepper, suitable, I hope, for town wear, as I am, if anything, an urban animal.
I am not sure the current Allsport cloths, especially the newly introduced ones, are as good, or will last as long, as those.
That being said, I would not describe the cloths as “urban” or “luxury” or “refined”. They mostly have a dry hand. They definitely are “tweeds”; I would not describe them as “city jacketings”.
You need to see them “in person” to decide.
I am not sure I have answered your question, except negatively, but I hope this helps.
Frog in Suit
Rowly
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Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:28 pm

Frog in Suit,
Thanks for the detailed reply, which is very helpful. I am currently having my second country suit made from the Worsted Alsport range and have decided on another of the patterns for a sports jacket, having seen one made up in Savile Row just Friday past. I find it difficult to envisage the final product from swatches, so this is a great help to me. I have yet to have a suit like yours from the heavier alsport collection but that is definitely on my list. I'm keen to have a few suits for weekend and leisure wear that are individual and not just another business suit. I favour tweeds ( but at the refined end of the tweedy scale) and flannels. More whisky and cigar at the fireside...than dog and gun on the hillside, if you see what I mean.
I bet the grey herringbone will look great for this. Do these suits wear very warm, limiting them to outdoor use? Do you think a 3-piece of this tweed is better as a b3..or can b2 look good also? I might try one of the lighter 17oz cloths in the range for my jacket, to test the water. I know Old Henry feels that the new alsport is nowhere near the quality of the original....but I suppose we're lucky there is any left at all. Please let me know how your grey herringbone turns out...it sounds like a very exciting commission!, thanks again, Rowly
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