Questions: How to store clothes properly

[physicaltheory]

Hello -

I am trying to organize my closet and need advice on storing clothing properly. My bedroom (and my bedroom's closet) seems to collect a lot of dust and I want to preserve my clothing the best way I can.

1. How should I store ties? Should I use a tie rack? What about folding them inside a dresser drawer? Should I enclose them around anything? If a tie rack is recommended, can someone recommend a specific tie rack? The tie rack I have that hangs from the rod worries me as it is not stable and ties sometimes fall off (as the ties rub against other fabrics).

2. My dress shirts: should they be put inside a "suit-like" garment protection bag to keep dust/other particles from touching them?

3. Should suits always be kept in a garment protection bag?

4. What about odd cotton and wool trousers, besides hanging on wooden hangers, should they go inside any garment bags?

5. I store my knitwear folded inside my dressers, but is there any special technique to keep them from getting dirty? Should they be enclosed in some type of garment protection bag as well?

Generally, should *ALL* clothing items go on wooden hangers, or are plastic hangers ever prefered (I suppose plastic hangers are okay for t-shirts)?

Also, and finally, what is the best way to fold knitwear and t-shirts (and ties, if it is recommended to fold ties instead of using a tie rack)?



I have my house cleaned about once a month, but evidently, it isn't enough as I still find loads of dust. Now that I am trying to reorganize everything, I would like to know how to do it properly. Any other tips are greatly appreciated!

Thank you very much!

[Cufflink79]

First of all, no matter where you live dust will build up. I dust my bedroom every saturday it's not fun, but it needs to be done.

Keeping your sweaters folded in a drawer is a good idea. You might want to get some bags of moth balls and cedar chips to help protect them.

As with any clothing item check it over for rips, smells, snags, stains, or any other inferiors that could damage your clothing before putting them away.

As for t-shirts you can fold them and put them in a drawer.

As for ties, you have some options you can store them nicely folded or rolled in a drawer or hang them on a tie rack.

Below is link to the type of tie rack I use.

http://woodlore.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Sc ... lt-Hangers

Blazers, overcoats, sport coats, suits, and tuxedos should be hung on good hangers.

Dress shirts can be folded or hung on good hangers as well.

As for storage, if you're storing a shirt or suit for a long period of time then put it in a breathable garment bag. If it's your everyday work clothing it should be just fine without covering. Just keep the closet door closed and don't let kids, pets, or other dangers lurk in your closet.

Below are some links for some good clothing storage ideas.

http://www.woodlore.com/

http://www.hangerproject.com/?gclid=CJL ... gwodj0CPmg

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[physicaltheory]

Thanks!

Is there a "right" way to fold shirts and sweaters, to reduce the creases from folds?

Can you recommend a tie hanging system that I can screw into the wall? I don't have a lot of space in my closest so the tie rack I have now rubs against other clothing and sometimes the ties fall off...

[Cufflink79]

Thanks!

Is there a "right" way to fold shirts and sweaters, to reduce the creases from folds?

Can you recommend a tie hanging system that I can screw into the wall? I don't have a lot of space in my closest so the tie rack I have now rubs against other clothing and sometimes the ties fall off...

As for a right way to fold shirts and sweaters the way you find them new is probably the best way to fold them. What causes the creases is the weight when put on top of each other.

As for a tie hanger to screw into the wall have a look at the link below.

http://woodlore.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Sc ... lt-Hangers

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[stubloom]

An interesting thread that touches on a number of different issues.

So I'll first address some basic principles of seasonal storage or storage due to infrequent usage, then I'll try to address some specific questions raised.

There are 3 critical issues associated with protecting your fine garments, particularly your fine wools, during seasonal storage or storage due to infrequent usage. Just like the proverbial 3 legged stool, all three issues should be addressed SIMULTANEOUSLY to achieve peace of mind.

1. DRY CLEAN OR WASH BEFORE YOU STORE AT THE END OF THE SEASON

Wools that have been worn and then stored WITHOUT first being properly dry cleaned contain all the nutrients necessary to sustain life for the larvae of the female adult moth when they hatch. Remove the source of nutrition and you eliminate the likelihood that the female adult moth will seek out your garments as the perfect location to lay her eggs.

For further information on this topic...
Blog post: Protecting your fine woolens against moths
http://ravefabricare.com/true-quality-c ... moths.aspx

2. STORE IN MATERIALS THAT ARE NOT ACIDIC IN NATURE

Garments that have been cleaned prior to seasonal storage or cleaned before storage due to infrequent usage should be stored in materials that are not acidic in nature. Why? Because acidic materials degrade over time and off-gas or release acids. And when those acids come into physical contact with your garments, your garments can turn yellow and/or deteriorate.

So now the question becomes: which materials are acidic in nature? These...

* Nylon or vinyl zip-up suit bags you got from your clothing retailer or tailor. These type of nylon and vinyl bags are not chemically inert, meaning that the nylon or vinyl will not degrade over time and off-gas acids.

* Cotton or canvas zip-up bags with see through vinyl or plastic fronts. Same reason.

* Dry cleaner plastic bags. Again, not chemically inert. Dry cleaner poly bags serve one function only: to protect you garments from dust while at the dry cleaner or in transit to your home. Never store any textile in dry cleaner poly unless you plan to wear or use it in the near term.

* Polypropylene boxes (aka Rubbermaid or Sterilite). Not chemically inert.

* Zip lock bags. Not chemically inert.

* Cedar anything ( rings, blocks, hangers, chests, closets, etc.). Mahogany and cedar are two of the most acidic woods you'll find.

For more information on the subject of cedar...
Blog post: Protecting your fine garments with cedar: the double edged sword.
http://ravefabricare.com/true-quality-c ... sword.aspx

3. ENSURE THAT ALL MATERIALS USED TO STORE YOUR GARMENTS ARE ABLE TO BREATHE

All fabrics, natural and synthetic, need to "breathe". Specifically, wools need to breathe during short and long term storage because wool is hydroscopic, meaning that wool has the ability to attract and absorb moisture from the air. At any point in time, anywhere fro 5% to 50% of the WEIGHT of a wool garment is moisture, depending on the indoor and outdoor atmospheric conditions (think dry like Arizona and humid like Florida).

SOME ADDITIONAL NON-STARTERS

* Moth balls: 1950's "science"; toxic; very difficult to remove moth ball odor even with multiple dry cleanings; effective only when contained in a closed environment (violates principle #3 above).

* Vigorous brushings: Does nothing to remove the nutrients (body oils, perspiration and other organic matter) that are food for the larvae when they hatch.

* Steaming: Same as vigorous brushings.

SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS

* Sweater bags (small, medium and large with a fold-over flap and snap) made of 100% cotton or 100% non-oven fibers with a chemically inert clear plastic front.

* Suit bags (42 inch) and coat bags (60 inch) made of 100% cotton or 100% non-woven fibers with a chemically inert small plastic window and front or side zipper.

* Proper contoured hangers. Hangers with the right neck and shoulder support and the right contour can do wonders in protecting the shape and grape of your fine garments.

For more on the subject of hangers...

Blog post: The importance of hangers
http://ravefabricare.com/true-quality-c ... ngers.aspx

DRY CLEAN VS NO DRY CLEAN PRIOR TO STORAGE

The "best" way to protect your fine garments during seasonal storage or storage due to infrequent usage is to clean before you store.The issue of risk associated with poor cleaning and/or poor pressing IS A COMPLETELY SEPARATE ISSUE and should be separated from any discussion as to the "best" way to protect your fine garments.

I know that many of you don't trust dry cleaners to maintain your fine garments in pristine condition over the long term. You've had too many bad experiences and/or you've heeded the admonishment of your tailors to avoid dry cleaners at all costs. I share your frustration. So much so that I wrote a blog post on this issue back in May 2010:

Blog post: the 10 deadly sins of ordinary dry cleaners
http://ravefabricare.com/true-quality-c ... aners.aspx

That having been said, is the solution to avoid dry cleaners altogether, or is the solution to find a skilled dry cleaner you knows how to care for bespoke, made-to-measure and other fine garments?

Questions? I'd be happy to respond.

Stu

[J.S. Groot]

Stu,

Is polyester chemically inert?

cheers.

[couch]

Stu,
Is polyester chemically inert?

The answer to that question for most plastics is that it depends on the formulation. Pure polyester is very chemically inert and is used, for example, in sheet form to make page protectors and other structures for storing and supporting literary manuscripts and other paper artifacts in archives and museums. Non-woven polyester cloths, such as Tyvek and Reemay, are also quite inert and used in many applications in the conservation of textiles and paper (see here for a storage bag source, as mentioned by Stubloom). Most woven "100% polyester" cloths, especially if without dyes, are pretty inert after thorough washing to remove any applied treatments.

Synthetic resins (nylon, polypropylene, polyester, polyethylene [polythene in the UK], etc.) are often formulated with phthalates and other additives as plasticizers or to manipulate properties such as heat moldability for use in specific products. It is these that are most likely to outgas and cause problems if confined in a sealed environment with, or in extended direct contact with, organic textile fibers. As are the urea-formaldehyde glues used (at least until quite recently) in particle board (chipboard, MDF) and plywood, commonly found in new interior construction including closets and many kinds of storage furniture.

But it is worth keeping some perspective about all this. Wool itself is naturally a slightly acidic material, as are most proteinaceous fibers. Venerable oak wardrobes and most wooden hangers (especially if unsealed) are highly acidic when new and will outgas for some time. Yet generations of gents and valets found that with regular care and maintenance, tailored wool clothes stored on wooden hangers in oak wardrobes would usually wear out long before they deteriorated from environmental damage, even after having been altered for sons and grandsons. So we want to avoid egregious errors, but need not be fanatics.

Stubloom's general guidelines are sound if sometimes a bit rigid. Definitely avoid anything vinyl (polyvinyl acetate, which nearly always has plasticizers, and degrades to release acetic acid among other things). Definitely avoid non-breathable storage bags. One reason to insist on breathable bags is that any harmful gases can disperse over time in the ambient air and when the clothes are taken in and out. Another is that changes in temperature and relative humidity can result in an excessively humid microclimate inside a non-breathable bag, which can promote mildew. That is the real meaning of the shorthand statement that wool has to "breathe"--it doesn't. But if surrounded by undisturbed air of greater than 60% RH and 60 degrees F, it will very likely support mildew, since the spores are ubiquitous. And of course, still, undisturbed air gives moths ideal conditions to do their worst.

The conservation standard in hanging storage bags is prewashed, unbleached cotton muslin with a zip closure (here is a source). In another thread someone recommended cotton canvas, which I find too heavy, risking creasing and distortion of the clothes. The best price I've found for the muslin bags is in the $20-$30/each range (perhaps Stubloom can direct us to a better price). I personally am comfortable using woven nylon bags, as I've posted in another thread, which are more economical. This is the sort of nylon used in the linings of outdoor clothing, sailing shells, umbrellas, etc., which may be hanging in the same closet as your wool suits already. I haven't seen any problems so far in normal use. Good quality sealed/lacquered/varnished wooden hangers, while not the standard for textile museums (they use hangers padded with cotton or polyester batting covered with washed muslin), are fine for normal use; the wood acids are isolated by the sealer, and any outgassing from the sealer itself will decrease to negligible amounts (assuming breathable storage) over time (unless you have a 1930s hanger that happens to have an acetate-based coating, but that will be too visibly deteriorated to tempt you anyway).

Polypropylene containers can be quite inert (Nalgene laboratory ware is polypropylene, and polypropylene is used for archival storage of photographic transparencies) though I don't know what plasticizers might be in the storage containers sold in home-storage shops. The main reason to avoid using them for storing clothing is that they are non-breathable (see above).

[stubloom]

Couch's response is an excellent addition to the discussion. I agree that my guidelines are a little rigid, albeit purposefully rigid.

1. I didn't want to get into issues of archival preservation which is why I limited my comments to seasonal storage and to storage due to infrequent use.

2. I tried to limit the discussion to guidelines that any individual could implement as a given. Clients often tell me "Stu, just tell me what to do. I don't have time for the why".

As regards storage bags (sweater, suit and coat), I could never find storage bags on the internet that I would call "reasonably priced." Even the Foster Stephens suit bag (linked to in couch's post) sells for around $14. As we typically get requests for 15 or 20 suit and coat bags at a time, we commissioned our own breathable, non-woven fiber bags that are sell for half that price.

Specialty Storage Products
http://ravefabricare.com/services/speci ... orage.aspx

Links to images of suit storage bags (42 inches) - front and back
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/166/dsc01823i.jpg
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/6946/dsc01822w.jpg

[Costi]

Physical, I'd say the first thing to do is clean the place A LOT more often than you do. Once a week at a minimum. That will be hugely beneficial to the good condition of the clothes and their wearer. Too much physical theory and too little physical exercise - put on your favourite music and dust away
I wouldn't exaggerate with bags and containers - taking reasonable care of one's clothes is one thing and treating them like delicate museum pieces is another. I couldn't be bothered to extract my clothes from bags every morning and pack them back every evening. Bags for seasonal storage is enough for me.
Brushing the clothes may not remove perspiration and stains, but it is most efficient in removing dust which seems to be enemy no. 1 in your case. Steaming has more to do with restoring shape and suppleness to wool, rather than cleaning.
Wooden hangers look nice, but in my experience plastic hangers with the right shape do no harm to bespoke coats, either. Wooden hangers with a good shape are hard to find.

[Jordan Marc]

Cleaning your clothes closets and garments with a duster simply pushes the detritus around and does little for the proper maintenance of your wardrobe. Take all of your clothes out of the cupboards and dressers. Shoes and slippers, too. Put them in another room and close the door, then get to work with a powerful vacuum cleaner, not an upright or canister model but a Shop-Vac with a lengthy hose and
various attachments. The more powerful the motor the better. Vacuum every surface of the cupboards, dresser drawers and shelves. Once you think everything is spotlessly clean, wipe every surface down with a tack cloth or damp absorbent rag.

If your home is centrally heated, make a point of changing the filters in your furnace one a month or every other month, depending upon the efficiency of your heating/air-conditioning units. That done, turn your attention to the registers recessed in the floors or walls. Although there are companies that
claim they can thoroughly clean the ductwork in your house, they create more problems than they
solve. The same goes for central vacuum systems. The motors are seldom, if ever, powerful enough
to eradicate all the airborn dust and detritus. What you need to do is head for the hardware store
and buy register filters, which are simple to install inside the registers and do the job for which they
are intended. Just remember to change them on a regular basis when they turn grey.

Finally, if your windows have single pane divided lights or multi-pane layers of glass with argon gas
between the void spaces, make sure the windows are properly sealed. You may like fresh air, but it doesn't do a helluva lot for the maintenance of your bespoke wardrobe.

JMB

[Merc]

make sure the windows are properly sealed. You may like fresh air, but it doesn't do a helluva lot for the maintenance your bespoke wardrobe.

JMB

and dont forget the oxygen tank since you wont have any air to breathe for yourself.
i think the clothes are there for you not the other way around

[Jordan Marc]

Merc,

Unless you live in a hermetically sealed vault, air has no problem circulating adequately in any freestanding home or block of flats. No need for oxygen, but taking care of a bespoke wardrobe
requires a good bit of patience and paying attention to details.

JMB

[storeynicholas]

Rule 1: Tell your staff that they have to pass the white glove dusting test on all exposed surfaces at the end of each day.

Rule 2: Make sure that they have picked up your daily, seven changes of clothes from where you have flung them (the floor, the chandalier and on top of open doors), and stored them correctly, according to couch's posts above.

[Costi]

Cleaning your clothes closets and garments with a duster simply pushes the detritus around and does little for the proper maintenance of your wardrobe. Take all of your clothes out of the cupboards and dressers. Shoes and slippers, too. Put them in another room and close the door, then get to work with a powerful vacuum cleaner, not an upright or canister model but a Shop-Vac with a lengthy hose and
various attachments. The more powerful the motor the better. Vacuum every surface of the cupboards, dresser drawers and shelves. Once you think everything is spotlessly clean, wipe every surface down with a tack cloth or damp absorbent rag.

Perfect! And then open the windows to let some fresh air in Fresh air does a lot of good to clothes. I leave my clothes hanging on the rope in the bathroom with the window open all night long after going to smoke-filled places (yes, they still exist here).

[Jordan Marc]

Nicholas:

Just seven changes of clothes per day? How untidy!

Costi:

Nothing quite like stepping into a frosty bathroom in the wee small hours of the morning to drain and finding yourself confronted by a bird perched on the rope dropping a load on last night's suit. Smoked
salmon and trout I understand, but not flannel or worsted.

JMB