Fabric Houses

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

gentleman01
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Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:13 am
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Sun Nov 28, 2010 10:13 am

Hello,

Every time I get a bespoke suit made I am overwhelmed with the number of fabrics available for my choosing. I figure this time I'd do my homework and do some research and be prepared, also I like to keep my ear to the ground and know whats available on the market and see what manufacturers are up to. I recently discovered Dashing Tweeds, a must see if you haven't already done so!

We're all familiar with the top fabric houses such as; Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Thomas Fisher and Dugdale & Bros Co and I am sure there are a slough of other perfectly capable fabric houses out there that I may not be aware of.

It would be very much appreciated if the forum could help me collect the names of fabric houses.

Thanks in advance!

-G
cdo
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:55 pm
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Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:34 pm

The following link is quite comprehensive:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... owtopic=26

- C
alden
Posts: 8210
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
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Sun Nov 28, 2010 1:12 pm

Gentleman01

There are many books of cloth provided to tailors these days. For the most part the style and quality of the offerings are very similar. You have to look at each book on the basis of its own merits. And if you search this site you will find a good deal of research has been done by the members here. Take advantage of it.

Cheers

M Alden
Jordan Marc
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Thu Dec 09, 2010 3:26 pm

Gentleman01:

Add Harrisons of Edinburgh, J.J. Minnis, Smith Woollens and H.E. Box to your shortlist of sources for truly gorgeous fabrics. For linings, have a look at Lear, Browne & Dunsford, which you'll find among the headings on the Harrisons site.

JMB
gentleman01
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Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:13 am
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Fri Dec 10, 2010 7:23 am

Thank you for the replys - very informative indeed!

All of these fabrics are top notch in both quality and price.

However, as much as I would like to get all of my suits made by the finest fabric houses, I need to be slightly more realistic. Would anyone be able to shed light on fabric houses that are of high quality and slightly more affordable than the previously mentioned?

Thanks in advance!

-G
rodes
Posts: 426
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Fri Dec 10, 2010 2:51 pm

Thomas Fisher and Dugdale Bros. are very affordable and they seem to have an excellent reputation. I have had good results with this cloth however my one suit from their worsted is only a few years old. Does anyone know if all of their cloth is two ply? In other words will my very proper English suit be around 12 years from now? I sure hope so.
Lugano
Posts: 43
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:59 am
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Wed Feb 09, 2011 2:34 pm

I am having an overcoat made- by George Bespoke of Cleveland Street- with Dugdale 20-21oz navy coating [6301]. It will be double-breasted, and have a ticket pocket.

The cloth looks very nice... the dark grey lining is also from Dugdale/Huddersfield Cloth, and the polished navy horn buttons are from Button Queen of Marylebone Lane.

The coat should be ready at the start of March
100_0888.JPG
Cufflink79
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Wed Feb 09, 2011 4:24 pm

Lugano wrote:I am having an overcoat made- by George Bespoke of Cleveland Street- with Dugdale 20-21oz navy coating [6301]. It will be double-breasted, and have a ticket pocket.

The cloth looks very nice... the dark grey lining is also from Dugdale/Huddersfield Cloth, and the polished navy horn buttons are from Button Queen of Marylebone Lane.

The coat should be ready at the start of March
100_0888.JPG
Dear Lugano:

What a great piece of fabric for your overcoat. Are you going to have working buttonholes on the cuffs? Please share photos of the finished garment. I wish you many good years of use with that new coat.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
Lugano
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Wed Feb 09, 2011 5:14 pm

I don't know if the overcoat will have working buttons. I don't anticipate that it will.

Of the four jackets I have had made by George Bespoke , two have had working cuff buttons [all four buttons] and two have not [none of the buttons]. I don't know how this works out, it may be that they have more than one jacket-maker.

To start with, I have asked for the coat to be made to below knee level, 12 inches off the ground... It can be changed at the fitting to knee length, we will see.
Lugano
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Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:38 pm

I have had the baste fitting of the overcoat. I have decided to keep it at calf length. It's going to be big!
Costi
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Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:53 pm

Good decision, Lugano! Mid-calf is the way to go with a town DB.
Lugano
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Mon Feb 28, 2011 12:11 pm

Three pictures- not great, but thank you anyway to the photographer- of the overcoat.
100_0994.JPG
Cufflink79
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Mon Feb 28, 2011 3:54 pm

Great looking overcoat Lugano. How does the overall fit feel? Thanks for sharing the photos with us.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
Lugano
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Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:02 am

thank you. The overcoat is very comfortable and easy to wear. After/at the fitting, I thought it would turn out large and heavy, but it has turned out to to have a slimming effect, against considerable odds!

I am very pleased with the buttons, for approx £30 I believe they have added considerable aesthetic value to the coat.

George told me he is retiring in July.

the sleeve has sham [non-working] buttons
Scot
Posts: 568
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Thu Aug 04, 2011 12:43 pm

I would be interested to hear members views on Holland & Sherry in general. I have never comissioned from their offerings. They seem to be the favoured fabric house of the pretend bespoke mob - "Made to Measure suits from the finest English cloth from £500". Interestingly, my own tailor (SR) has never opened an H&S book in fron of me. Is this telling?
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