The Myth of the Soft Shoulder

[old henry]

I think the older gentleman above looks elegant and interesting.

The coat is not setting on his shoulders right, as that one shows the seam part way and then twist back. He also has that arm back. It would be interesting to see him just standing and not holding something in one hand and with his other hand back a bit. A picture doesn't always tell the truth about quality.

His choice of cloth is excellent.[/quote]



You miss the point , Sir

[Greger]

Old henry you are right. On the other hand glitches saddly do distract.

[old henry]

ha ha. You're a good sport , Old Sport

[mmkn2]

I cannot help but to see the soft shoulder as “sweater-y,” casual, and country in form.

- M

[Greger]

If it is the CLOTHES that set a man apart from his peers, something is wrong about the way he dresses.

You don't even understand what I mean. The skill of tailors vary, so to say, from 1-100. Either end of the spectrum will stand the person wearing the clothes out from his peers. One side will be jaw dropping excellence and the other will be, "I know who's tailor to stay away from". Everything else in between will be unexciting average. Do you want your tailor to do his best? And, improve? Or, just OK? Plain tailoring really isn't an art or much of art (even manufactures hire designers as artist). It fits where style and fashion dictate. Art connects to the soul and heart, so these kinds of tailors connect the clothes to the person which draws your attention to the person. These clothes fit more than the body. There are other diminsions that the best think about, well beyond styles and fashions and cloth. In fact, those don't even matter. Something is wrong about the way he dresses is not at all what I am talking about. Fitting like a glove includes the personality.

[Greger]

mmkn2, The old Gent isn't “sweater-y” like. It's not setting on his shoulder right for some reason. He also knows how to put his colors together very well. There are many ways to do soft shoulders which may or may not have drape, and there are lots of ways to do drape. Soft shoulders do not have to be “sweater-y” like. And how many reasons are there to use shoulder pads? Shoulder pads can create a soft shoulder, too. And lack of shoulder pads can create a hard shoulder. There are many mis-conceptions on the internet because only few people write what little they know. But I do agree that a “sweater-y” like coat is more in the casual department, so to say.

There are other thoughts to think about too. Muscles expand when used. A person who has very little muscle can wear a closer fitting coat. A man with big muscles needs much more room for that expansion, therefore the garment needs to be that much looser.

[alden]

I cannot help but to see the soft shoulder as “sweater-y,” casual, and country in form.

Is this look sweater-y, casual and country as well? Is the suit more barnyard than boardroom? It is the same soft shoulder made up in a worsted cloth and its been worn for business and pleasure on countless occasions.

Clothes, independent of the make, take on a different character depending on the cloth one uses. That is why many of us who wear custom clothing are pretty keen on fabrics. On a purely aesthetic basis, I tend to prefer seeing a softer make for hard worsted cloth. The result is less "armor-like." (I suppose that is the direct opposite of sweater-y?) On the other hand, on most men, a very soft tweed can use a bit of structure to avoid being too cardigan-esque. (Whew!)

Cheers

M Alden

[old henry]

I admire the high gorge , lapel width and shape . What a Mug . You would make a great gangster ,Michael.

[mmkn2]

Is this look sweater-y, casual and country as well? Is the suit more barnyard than boardroom? It is the same soft shoulder made up in a worsted cloth . . .

Clothes, independent of the make, take on a different character depending on the cloth one uses.

Cheers

M Alden

In form, yes.

And form is only one part of the whole [color, texture, form, proportion, and balance/symmetry].

If one isolates only the shoulders of the above posted three-series photos, there are more curves, roundedness, softness than lines and angles. Taking cues from Nature, the former are associated with relaxedness and latter decisiveness. One step further curves can be feminine [breasts, buttocks] and angles masculine [a man's jaw line]. Women who take testosterone for bodybuilding develop unsightly masculine jaw lines, so the visual coding must be built in somewhere in Nature.

In texture [cloth], no. Add color, proportion, and symmetry, your Jean Gabin-esque countenance, and on the whole your posted photo is more business than barnyard. Mr. Modenese's and Old Dog Old Trix's are also on the whole more business than banyard as well.

Any more with bespoke I think less about armor [think Trump in his Brioni] than about presenting the individual, although both purposes can apply.

- M

[alden]

M,

The very fact that a person would believe they need straight lines and angles in their clothes to appear decisive and masculine, tells me everything I need to know about them.

The other option is to be decisive and masculine. It makes things easier and you can wear the clothes that please you.

I guess we will have to agree to disagree since all my life experience has taught me that “the man makes the clothes” and rarely the contrary.

One cannot dress the part of decisive and masculine. At the highest levels of business a fake is found out in nanoseconds. And a woman can sense the presence of a real man with her eyes closed. That is the cue from Nature worth remembering.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[mmkn2]

Agreed!

- M

[manton]

A soft shoulder I am very happy with:

[alden]

Manton

I think the Neapolitan clothes look so much better! Just kidding.

That coat looks great to me.

Michael

[Costi]

As Nature made us, we are all soft, curvy and vulnerable. Nature didn't make us armoured or clothed, so it must have considered we're smart enough not to need any tricks to appear larger and more agressive, like the raising collars of some lizards.

We may choose to use clothing beyond that primitive function (otherwise extensively abused throughout the history of costume).

[Scot]

Soft or structured?





I have tried long and hard to resize the top picture but have to admit defeat - you will just have to admire the tweed (a Lovat Mill offering). This is a recent comission and is "soft" interpreted by my tailor

I am happy enough with how it looks not to worry too much about how it might be labelled.