That feeling after the first bespoke commission

[Costi]

J.S. Groot, that may be the case for a while, until you’ve had enough of extra inches, wrong shades, wrong plaid size; after that, as Michael puts it, you stop seeing the little neon lights of these shops selling nothing but expensive frustration.

[J.S. Groot]

Costi,

I think we are on the same page? My post was not contrary to what you say, but affirmative, no?

cheers,
j.

[pur_sang]

Shoot me for saying it, but I believe some things don't need to be 'bespoked'. Doesn't it drive you mad when people try to charge more money for simple things by simply saying it's bespoke this and bespoke that? I guess one can argue a shirt is a simple item, but there is noticeable difference between good and bad fitting shirts, I believe it's the attention to detail and craftsmanship that seperates the good and bad, and hence with all the considerations, a shirt becomes a complex item.

Things such as sweaters, ties and scarves I will happily buy off the rack. I will love to get into bespoke shoes one day (maybe not this year, thank god the year is ending soon), but I also think my Tod's driving shoes are perfectly fine, can I get them bespoked? Probably. However, I just don't see the need.

Maybe I am being naive again.

[Costi]

J. S. Groot, we are definitely on the same page - mine is just the next paragraph, when one is over the frustration of RTW (as you rightly describe) and does not even consider it as a possibility anymore - so no more frustration

[Costi]

Pur_sang, you may be right when such "bespoke" items are nothing but marketing gimmicks (such as adding a monogram or choosing the thread colour to "personalize" etc.) and overpriced. As for the value of the bespoke item, it is to be judged by the customer: if one absolutely wants an umbrella with a palisander stick, large-sized indigo pure silk canopy and a buffalo horn tip, there is a price for it; of course, it won't do any more to keep one dry than a $5 foldable Chinese thing

[J.S. Groot]

Pur_sang,

Whether or not bespoke is needed is a question of what the customer needs, of course. What I was saying is that when you get into bespoke, you get more sensitive to your requirements. Lets take sweaters as an example. There are many fine RTW sweaters out there that are sanely priced too (eg. Pure Collection's cashmere ones). And there's absolutely nothing wrong with buying them. However, when your are used to having things that fit you perfectly, it rapidly gets annoying that your sweater is too long, as most RTW ones are because of the horrible prevalence of low waisted trousers. Then you start looking around for a knitter who'll make one to your exact specifications. Often, they'll actually be cheaper too, because many well-made and -fitting sweaters come from high end brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli or the likes. An example of this is Louise Irvine's (http://www.shetland-handknits.co.uk/welcome.html) bespoke, hand-knitted Shetland sweaters, which a priced similarly or cheaper than some RTW competitors (Drake's, Ralph Lauren...)

Ties are another example. I'm short and I like my trousers a little higher than my waist (short legs). Consequently, most RTW ties are too long by something like 5". Sam Hober makes me a tie of the highest possible quality that fits perfectly and cost about half of a high end RTW tie.

Do I need those things bespoke? Well, I can get by without them, using a double four-in-hand for ties for example, but in the same way, I could perhaps get by with taking a RTW suit to an alterations tailor. It's just not the same thing

For what it's worth, I buy RTW shoes. I would definitely prefer bespeaking them, but it's just out of my league. For now.

cheers,
j.

[Costi]

Do I need those things bespoke? Well, I can get by without them, using a double four-in-hand for ties for example, but in the same way, I could perhaps get by with taking a RTW suit to an alterations tailor. It's just not the same thing

That summs it up pretty well!

[carl browne]

It's true, not everything needs to be bespoken.

For me, shoes don't. I have a wonderful pair of bespoke Parisian Lobbs, but the fit (which is perfect) isn't much better than my off the rack shoes. I just don't have a great need for the bespoke lasts. I may be missing the freedom of style that the bespoke things afford, but the cost is roughly triple, and I need to prioritize. Fortunately there are a few outfits that offer a wide choice of style with similar quality. My wardrobe of off the rack shoes has gotten pretty large. Most are Edward Greens. The shoes last almost forever, if you have them resoled by the manufacturer. But on the rare occasion where a pair needs to be replaced, I could probably move to bespoke. It just depends on how much money I'd be willing to spend for a very slight improvement in fit.

[Rowly]

Welcome aboard ! If you have faith, you will learn the sensual delights of bespoke tailoring. A bespoke suit will not look as perfect as a computer generated, factory made suit.... you will learn to appreciate that factory made suits are not perfect, they are sterile. In this world of phoniness, image and labels, where everyone strives to look the same, in deference to some fabricated Rock Star, or whatever, ...... your hand made clothes are as unique and as personal and individual as your fingerprint. No two bespoke garments are the same. They have humanity. They are made with the human touch. They embody the timeless pride of man in the wholesome work of his hands for those who can appreciate it. From the guy who sheared the sheep, the family owned millowner, proud to maintain his heritage, the tailor who spends many hours of his life's experience making it for you on his bench..and even his many former clients with whom he has developed his experience and honed his craft....they are all present in the fibres of your suit. It is a celebration and an expression of individuality. Like a hand written letter ( which will never look as neat as a word precessed text) .... the little imperfections are what give it its charm...it is personal. I hope you come to enjoy these things as much as I have .... Rowly.

[jlazarow]

Congrats on your first bespoke commission! I hope you enjoy the process and and enjoy the suit for years to come. I remember my first order. I thought that I would just be buying ONE bespoke suit and enjoying the process along the way. I did fall in love with what bespoke offers. Although I do not buy much, when I do want to buy something it has to be bespoke--shirt, suit, sport jacket. The level of comfort and fit cannot be matched. And its nice being able to chose a fabric!

[pur_sang]

Thank you everyone. I am getting more and more excited, but uncertainty remains... I just booked my ticket for the first fitting, cannot wait!

[bond_and_beyond]

I share in your excitement pur_sang. I have had the basted fitting on my first bespoke suit, and I am going back to London in earlier November for the forward fitting. The feeling of excitement is on a steady rise!

[pur_sang]

Just returned from my first and second fitting. I still have my doubts, feel like a gamble, still don't know how the whole thing is going to turn out.

I think the check I chose is a bit small, I think the jacket is too long, and I think the trousers are too wide. However, my cutter/tailor assure me it is good, so I trust him.

Let's see how it goes in the third and final fitting...

[old henry]

A too small check is better than a too big check .Too long is better than too short. Too wide is better than too narrow. .. What I mean to say is the coat can be shortened and the leg can be taken in. First suits are first suits . Enjoy yourself.

[Costi]

A too small check is better than a too big check .Too long is better than too short. Too wide is better than too narrow. .. What I mean to say is the coat can be shortened and the leg can be taken in.

... and that will also make the check appear bigger in proportion
I wouldn't worry about wide legs if they taper nicely into a shape you can't get with narrow trousers. I prefer shorter coats though and I have yet to see a tailor who makes too short a coat...
What I learned with time is that you can never really imagine what a suit will actually look like on you until it's finished, with the sleeves on, buttons in place and lapels properly ironed. Good tailors have a better power to imagine, to anticipate what the end result will be if you take in or let out a couple of centimeters at an intermediate stage, so I learned (from experience) to trust them and ask "Do you think we should do this or that?" instead of "Please do this or that". Often this gives the tailor an idea of what you expect (such as a coat that looks a bit shorter than at a fitting) and he knows better what to do in order to achieve it - for example, he may only choose to shorten 1 cm and open up the quarters slightly to alter the look, which is better than shortening the coat 3cm without changing the quarters, as a customer might instruct.