Creating open quarters by cut or fit

[Merc]

In the photo, Will is not standing in neutral spine- one foot is slightly forward of the other. His weight is carried more on one foot which causes the pelvis to tilt, the spine to curve, and one shoulder to drop slightly.

In other words, one cannot judge the fit of Will's garment from this photo due to his stance.

Another example that should warn us not to draw too many conclusions from photos. The front quarters, like other parts of a coat, move in tandem with the wearer. The quarters will open and close as a normal course of business with these movements. As Jeffrey and Frank have pointed out, a forward bend or tilt of the body will open the quarters while a back wards or exaggerated throwing back of the shoulders will close them.

Cheers

Michael

Fair enough...but i'd still bet if we ask him, he might admit that jacket is a bit tight
photos are tough to tell from, but his stance isn't that tilted and it looks quite a bit out of plumb

[alden]

Fair enough...but i'd still bet if we ask him, he might admit that jacket is a bit tight
photos are tough to tell from, but his stance isn't that tilted and it looks quite a bit out of plumb

Well Will has been a member here from the very beginning, so he should be able to tell you. The coat in question is a remake of the 2 button Windsor style much written about here and the best examples of which are still those crafted by Costi's tailor.

There does seem to be something amiss with the coat's fit but photos are hard to judge.

Cheers

Michael

[old henry]

Michael , 1/4 inch on the double at the shoulder points is throwing off Wills coat. The shoulders need more "air". The coat is touching the shoulder ever so slightly which is lifting it off the neck ever so slightly which is causing the fronts to cut away and the apron to bell out just a bit - and the quarters to misbehave.. As far as I can see the quarters appear to be cut straight. The coat may also need to be lifted {squared} at the neck to swing {crook} the fronts into proper position. This is fresh in my mind because a customer just sent me back a Johnstons of Elgin Tweed Caretakers jacket with the same miscalculation. I disagreed until he sent photos . I will not be able match the sleeve plaid when finished. Will might also use a stout dart to cup and house whatever might need to be cupped and housed.. {I put a 1/4 inch stout dart in ALL of my drafted patterns.} Perhaps another 1/4 inch on the overlap would not hurt..A slight , slight , slight fit miscalculation in the shoulder is throwing off the appearance of the cut of the quarters.FS

[Merc]

Frank,

a very keen set of observations...i think i need to read them again a couple of times with his picture side by side

(btw i know Will is a member since the beginning- i was kinda hoping he would see the thread and respond, but i suppose i could pm him to alert him of the item in question.)