Educate me on ties

[David Hober]

"Each silk print is unique, at least in my experience, so tiemakers end up with a lot of different-sized patterns hung on separate hooks..."

While every craft person has their own tools or ideas, very politely I do not agree about different patterns being needed for different prints. Instead the process of positioning the pattern on the silk is what adjusts for the different silk designs.

Who follows the above use of patterns?

"...other artisans take an entirely different approach, buying just enough yardage to make no more than four ties of one particular pattern and keeping a minimum distance of 300 miles between the four buyers. It's a guarantee you will never see anyone else wearing the same tie."

I am curious what tie maker adopts that approach?

Normally if you are not custom weaving silk the same silk will be sold by the mills to anyone. For perhaps a couple of years there may be an exclusive on new designs.

[Jordan Marc]

David Hober:

The limited edition approach to tiemaking with 300 miles between customers applies to me and a charming seamstress I keep running into at the best source for silks in the shoreline suburbs of Chicago.
We met over a fixture piled high with silks, she pulling a bolt one way, me pulling the same bolt the other way. There was more than enough yardage for both of us. Neither of us is the least bit interested in doing a multifold layup, the kind you used to see in Seventh Avenue workrooms in Manhattan before everything was outsourced. For me, making the same tie over and over again is truly monotonous. Profitable, yes, but boring. For her, making the same blouse and pleated skirt is tedious and drives her up the wall. It isn't that either of us has a short attention span; it's that we want to get on to the next project. Both of us come from a background of art and design, and neither of us is envious of the other.
Tricks and techniques are exchanged openly and solutions are arrived at by conversations and sketches on placemats, usually over snacks and coffee at a nearby tratoria.

As for the 300 mile limit between any four customers, this was taught to me by Bernard Weatherill who tailored me for years when I lived in New York. The firm refused to make a suit or an odd jacket for any customer within that limit if another customer had beaten him to the punch for a particular bolt of cloth. Weatherill would make you a similar suit or jacket from another bolt or two, but not from the other man's choice of fabric. Customers had no qualm with the rule. The tailoring was impeccable, and there were more than enough bolts of fabric stacked against a long wall from floor to ceiling to please everyone. Why not do the same with ties?

JMB

[Merc]

David Hober:

As for the 300 mile limit between any four customers, this was taught to me by Bernard Weatherill who tailored me for years when I lived in New York. The firm refused to make a suit or an odd jacket for any customer within that limit if another customer had beaten him to the punch for a particular bolt of cloth. Weatherill would make you a similar suit or jacket from another bolt or two, but not from the other man's choice of fabric. Customers had no qualm with the rule. The tailoring was impeccable, and there were more than enough bolts of fabric stacked against a long wall from floor to ceiling to please everyone. Why not do the same with ties?
JMB

uggh.
i think that this attitude is on the extreme side.

[Jordan Marc]

Not really, Merc. Beautifully tailored men don't start out being well-dressed. If they're lucky enough to find a great tailor and have deep poockets, that artisan will size you up and steer you in the right direction as to what is appropriate for you. The same goes for the choice of accessories. Why should you look like every other man you pass on the street or co-mingle with at the office? That's not style;
it's sheer boredom. It takes time to develop your own signature look, a willingness of experiment with different possibilities, and a confidence to know when the combination of elements from head to toe
are pure perfection.

JMB

[Merc]

JMB,

it seems extreme to impose such a limitation though

[Jordan Marc]

Merc, remember Clint Eastwood's line as Dirty Harry: "A man's got to know his limitations!"

JMB

[Merc]

hehehehe

[Simon A]

I could recommend David Hober's re-making service. I had some much-loved old ties that were losing their shape as the lining deteriorated or were becoming unstitched, and they were slightly too long. The re-made ties now look like new and spring back to shape quickly after untying. Given the time and material involved in renovating them,the charge was very reasonable, a good deal cheaper than replacing them.

[David Hober]

Simon,

Thank you for your kind words. Remaking ties is something we we do only to be helpful to our clients.

What I currently enjoy very much is getting involved with regimental tie history. We have many regimental silks currently being woven and I am interested in, and learning quite a lot about their histories.

If anyone has suggestions for a regimental silk that they would like woven please let me know.

[Simon A]

I could also wholeheartedly recommend David's service for making regimental ties. My Battalion Association did not have access to good quality silk ties in the colours of the battalion any more, so David designed one, had the silk woven and made a very attractive tie for me. For those of you who are serving or retired servicemen, and you would like a bespoke tie in your regimental colours, it would be worth your while approaching David.